I replaced my AC pump a couple of months ago, and it started a week after that. We where going out of town for the weekend, left around 530-600p, caught traffic and it started to warm up,then BOOM. The top hose blows. replace it top off coolant, off on a 300+ mile trip. No problems, ran AC. Two weeks later, sitting in a parking lot waiting on my daughter (10 mins) AC on, BOOM. Bottom hose blows. Replace hose, stat, and flush system. runs ok, lil hot but not bad. last weekend, another trip, over heats, flush system to get all air out, top coolant, runs great. Today, OMG PLEASE, once again, ,over heats!!!
Can anyone help? do I need to fork out $350 for rad and h2o pump? I thought I could work on this thing, stumped me!

 

make sure your sure both of your fans are operating properly before you condemn the radiator. Sounds like you've replaced everything else

 

X2
My 98 was overheating and it turned out to be a faulty e fan, It would turn on but wasn't spinning up to par. I could actually stop it with my finger. Also check to make sure your lower rad hose has an internal spring. And not to scare you but when mine overheated, it actaully cracked the head. in cylinder 1. Just found this out last week, If you need anymore info on my situation let me know,
Good luck

 

How bad did it overheat when it cracked the head.

 

You know, if that is the situation, I'm done with them all. I have 3 xj's that are nickel and diming me to death. Two of them overheat, broken axels, spun bearings, sunroofs that leak and that famous leak that you cant find, but have 3" of water on the floorboard.
HAHAHAHA...
3 XJ's for sale;

'90 Limited
Stock
(daily driver or ready to build)

'92 Briarwood
4.6 Stroker
4" lift
33" 12.5" 15"
LocRite F/R
Custom Bumpers F/R
Tailgater sprayer

'99 Sport
HID/Projection Headlamps
PIAA fog lights
Safari rack
Rustys 8" Long arm kit (in the box)
36" 14.5" 15" (under the Rustys box)
"OVERHEATS!!!!!!!!!!!!"

 

It slowly overheated to about 230 then shot up to 260+ bc the PO didnt buy the right lower rad hose. It collapsed bc there was no internal spring. Causing no coolant in the engine

I wouldn't go and do that, I am not saying that is your case at all. I was just saying that happened to me and it is a possibility.

 

Why would a bottom rad hose collapse? The Gates hose we were given at the NAPA store didn't come with a spring. The cooling system is pressurized once heat starts to come up (if the rad cap is good). The bottom hose should be just as hard as the top hose (unless the rad is plugged). No???? How does it collapse?

 

That's what mine did the first week I had it - slowly got up around 230 then jumped right over to 260. It showed none of the regular signs of overheating, such as coolant pouring out, low coolant level, rad steaming, etc etc.

I've been driving it for 2 months now and haven't had another problem, but I do notice it starts creeping up when I'm parked with the air on for 5-10minutes. I haven't sat anywhere long enough to see how hot it would get, or even if it gets any hotter really. It usually gets up around the 230 area and I start moving again so she cools off. I was thinking it was a fluke - bad gauge or something wrong with the cluster since it didn't act as though it actually overheated. I wonder if I shouldn't just replace that rear hose anyway now...don't need a cracked head, that's for sure.

 

The suction from the water pump collapsed the hose. From the factory the bottom rad hose has an internal spring, The only place i could find the hose with the internal spring was the stealership.

I would, but thats just me