Over heating on inclined angles
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 760
Likes: 6
From: Landers, CA
Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So how else would you describe it?
Extreme intelligence?
Maybe YOU can explain why an electric fan - or 2 fans, work fine downhill but not uphill? That was his question.
Air is too heavy?
Negative? I'm just pointing out the stupidity.
Extreme intelligence?
Maybe YOU can explain why an electric fan - or 2 fans, work fine downhill but not uphill? That was his question.
Air is too heavy?
Negative? I'm just pointing out the stupidity.
Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
From: WoodinVille
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by rrich
So how else would you describe it?
Extreme intelligence?
Maybe YOU can explain why an electric fan - or 2 fans, work fine downhill but not uphill? That was his question.
Air is too heavy?
Negative? I'm just pointing out the stupidity.
Extreme intelligence?
Maybe YOU can explain why an electric fan - or 2 fans, work fine downhill but not uphill? That was his question.
Air is too heavy?
Negative? I'm just pointing out the stupidity.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
From post #1 -
"""""I was out four wheeling and stopped on a small hill facing uphill and the temp gauge jumped from 210 to red. The instant I turned around and faced downhill at a stop, it dropped back to 210 or less.""""""
So you guys are saying the electrons to the E-Fan can't run in a wire that's not level?
Doesn't anybody THINK?
"""""I was out four wheeling and stopped on a small hill facing uphill and the temp gauge jumped from 210 to red. The instant I turned around and faced downhill at a stop, it dropped back to 210 or less.""""""
So you guys are saying the electrons to the E-Fan can't run in a wire that's not level?
Doesn't anybody THINK?
Best I can tell, these are the only 3 posts in this thread that refer to or suggest that electric wire must be level and then proceed with some form of sarcasm.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 760
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From: Landers, CA
Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The wire having to be level to work - that was a sarcastic comment (and meant to be funny) on your conclusion that the OP'S vehicle overheated when pointing up hill and not downhill because it has an electric fan or fans. Sorry you did not get the point of how dumb your conclusion is.
Then why, in your infinite wisdom does the source of air movement through the radiator make the difference? Is it possibly because the electric fan produces Ozone? (Another sarcastic wild guess that you won't understand.)
Why up and not level or down?
What does the angle of attack have to do with it if it's not a bubble as suggested early on?
The OP asked a legitimate question - Thank you for misleading and diverting the question - AS ALWAYS!
Please - let's hear more of your "Words of Wisdom."
Without you, this board would be too serious - you make us all laugh!
Then why, in your infinite wisdom does the source of air movement through the radiator make the difference? Is it possibly because the electric fan produces Ozone? (Another sarcastic wild guess that you won't understand.)
Why up and not level or down?
What does the angle of attack have to do with it if it's not a bubble as suggested early on?
The OP asked a legitimate question - Thank you for misleading and diverting the question - AS ALWAYS!
Please - let's hear more of your "Words of Wisdom."
Without you, this board would be too serious - you make us all laugh!
Last edited by rrich; Jul 21, 2012 at 12:55 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Since you "cured" it temporarily by burping it, I suspect it's a bubble. It may take some time to build up enough to cause the problem.
When it cools off the system becomes a vacuum. It is supposed to pull coolant from the bottle. If there's a tiny leak it pulls in air - making the bubble.
It can leak in air under the negative pressure without leaking fluid out. Often hard to find.
Try tightening all connections - hoses and gaskets.
Using a pressure tester and over pressurizing the system can sometimes find it, but not always.
Too bad they don't make one that can evacuate it too!
Often it's the cap's fault (you take it off to test the system - so the culprit is in your hand!)
When hot and you are parking it for a time, notice where the fluid line is on the bottle. When it cools it should be considerably lower if it sucked fluid back in to the system - like it's supposed to do. A leak won't let it suck fluid in, it'll just pull in air - the bubble.
When it cools off the system becomes a vacuum. It is supposed to pull coolant from the bottle. If there's a tiny leak it pulls in air - making the bubble.
It can leak in air under the negative pressure without leaking fluid out. Often hard to find.
Try tightening all connections - hoses and gaskets.
Using a pressure tester and over pressurizing the system can sometimes find it, but not always.
Too bad they don't make one that can evacuate it too!
Often it's the cap's fault (you take it off to test the system - so the culprit is in your hand!)
When hot and you are parking it for a time, notice where the fluid line is on the bottle. When it cools it should be considerably lower if it sucked fluid back in to the system - like it's supposed to do. A leak won't let it suck fluid in, it'll just pull in air - the bubble.
Last edited by djb383; Jul 21, 2012 at 04:38 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 760
Likes: 6
From: Landers, CA
Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Post #19 was responding to the OP'S trouble, I was ignoring your comments that it was the fan, radiator, or other things.
My sarcasm was directed at someone intentionally misleading the OP - YOU!
You still haven't explained """"why does the source of air movement through the radiator make the difference?"""""""
Or """"Why up and not level or down?""""
The OP asked a legitimate question!
My sarcasm was directed at someone intentionally misleading the OP - YOU!
You still haven't explained """"why does the source of air movement through the radiator make the difference?"""""""
Or """"Why up and not level or down?""""
The OP asked a legitimate question!
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
have the coolant temp sensor wires gotten a bare spot rubbed in them possibly making contact to metal when on incline causing faulty reading? thinking outside the box here
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
I'd suspect the fans.....the OE efan pulls some good cfm numbers and the OE clutch fan will pull way more cfm than the OE efan at just off idle, presuming the fan clutch is functioning correctly.
I'd suspect the radiator as well. How does one know a radiator is functioning properly yet the motor overheats?
I'd suspect the radiator as well. How does one know a radiator is functioning properly yet the motor overheats?
Check the rad when the motor is cold....coolant level should be at the top of the neck, motor cold. Only way to determine internal condition of the rad is to have a rad shop separate the tanks from the core and rod it out. The XJ rad is about as dinky small as they come. If only a few tubes are clogged, efficiency is reduced. No amount of flushing will unplug a tube filled with solid scale....rodding it out is the only way to unplug it. At +/-$100, a new rad is well worth it. If that doesn't cure overheat, the aftermarket fans are definitely suspect.
Does it or does it not loose coolant? Does it overheat while or after driving uphill? What info do u have that says the fan exceeds the cfm rating of the stock set-up?
If the rad is full when the motor is cold, don't see how an air pocket can form when the motor is hot and disappear when cold.
Again, the only thing u haven't replaced is the rad......so I'm still guessing the rad and aftermarket fans.
If the rad is full when the motor is cold, don't see how an air pocket can form when the motor is hot and disappear when cold.
Again, the only thing u haven't replaced is the rad......so I'm still guessing the rad and aftermarket fans.
The belt driven fan, with a properly functioning fan clutch, will pull way more CFM (than the OE efan) at just above idle speed. Find a new mechanic and Jeep shop.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/e...sults-1182706/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/e...sults-1182706/
Post #19 was responding to the OP'S trouble, I was ignoring your comments that it was the fan, radiator, or other things.
My sarcasm was directed at someone intentionally misleading the OP - YOU!
You still haven't explained """"why does the source of air movement through the radiator make the difference?"""""""
Or """"Why up and not level or down?""""
The OP asked a legitimate question!
My sarcasm was directed at someone intentionally misleading the OP - YOU!
You still haven't explained """"why does the source of air movement through the radiator make the difference?"""""""
Or """"Why up and not level or down?""""
The OP asked a legitimate question!
Last edited by djb383; Jul 21, 2012 at 10:08 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 299
Likes: 12
From: Whittier, Ca
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I had a very simailar problem. My two core radiator was only a year old and overheating going up hill. I flushed the system and flushed the heater core both ways with my garden hose. Problem continued going up hill.
I then installed a new 3 core radiator and of course new fluid. This time I turned the heater on while at idle and the cap off to burp the system. The needle on the temp guage now sits one needle with below the 210* line and has not gone more than 215* going up hill. I also had found that my overflow tank was cracked where the hose connects and was empty so I got a new universal tank. It is quite probable that it had been sucking in air.
I don't know if it was the burping with the heater on and cap off, the new 3 row radiator, or fixing the coolant overflow tank that did the trick.
I then installed a new 3 core radiator and of course new fluid. This time I turned the heater on while at idle and the cap off to burp the system. The needle on the temp guage now sits one needle with below the 210* line and has not gone more than 215* going up hill. I also had found that my overflow tank was cracked where the hose connects and was empty so I got a new universal tank. It is quite probable that it had been sucking in air.
I don't know if it was the burping with the heater on and cap off, the new 3 row radiator, or fixing the coolant overflow tank that did the trick.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 433
Likes: 1
From: Yuma, AZ....yes the 3:10 came here
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by AVjeeper
I had a very simailar problem. My two core radiator was only a year old and overheating going up hill. I flushed the system and flushed the heater core both ways with my garden hose. Problem continued going up hill.
I then installed a new 3 core radiator and of course new fluid. This time I turned the heater on while at idle and the cap off to burp the system. The needle on the temp guage now sits one needle with below the 210* line and has not gone more than 215* going up hill. I also had found that my overflow tank was cracked where the hose connects and was empty so I got a new universal tank. It is quite probable that it had been sucking in air.
I don't know if it was the burping with the heater on and cap off, the new 3 row radiator, or fixing the coolant overflow tank that did the trick.
I then installed a new 3 core radiator and of course new fluid. This time I turned the heater on while at idle and the cap off to burp the system. The needle on the temp guage now sits one needle with below the 210* line and has not gone more than 215* going up hill. I also had found that my overflow tank was cracked where the hose connects and was empty so I got a new universal tank. It is quite probable that it had been sucking in air.
I don't know if it was the burping with the heater on and cap off, the new 3 row radiator, or fixing the coolant overflow tank that did the trick.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 760
Likes: 6
From: Landers, CA
Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
'''OH my mistake - I thought you were answering the OP's question - over heating when trying to go uphill and not overheating going downhill. - the entire reason for the thread.
I had no idea you were diverting the subject to something entirely different.
Please have someone explain to you the title of the thread: " Over heating on inclined angles"
I had no idea you were diverting the subject to something entirely different.
Please have someone explain to you the title of the thread: " Over heating on inclined angles"
Last edited by rrich; Jul 22, 2012 at 02:26 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
What did I divert to? If all cooling system components are in good working condition, going uphill/downhill shouldn't matter much. The reason I suggested the radiator is because the OP said he replaced everything but the rad. The reason I questioned the fan(s) is because they are not OE. Again, what have I diverted to that would mislead the OP?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 433
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From: Yuma, AZ....yes the 3:10 came here
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well I bought two performance e fans. 16" 1500 cfm each and one is high heat desert performance. We will see how they do.