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Over 1 year later, still can't begin the rear shocks project.

Old 12-23-2013, 12:56 PM
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Default Over 1 year later, still can't begin the rear shocks project.

Shocks: So easy a blind 6 year old can do it in 5 mins. with a Spongebob screwdriver

In the thread above from last Xmas, I was finally able to understand the common roadblocks of the rear shocks job.
I am now ready to have the bolts break off, and use an air chisel to bust out the weld nuts.
I also have all the replacement bolts and washers ready to fish into the hole thru the cavity.
I plan to fish the bolts down and thread the bolts in the OPPOSITE direction of the OEM config.

I had a few false starts in the year that ensued, b/c I didn't have the right tools.
I since purchased a compressor, an air chisel, a drill, new drill bits, bolt extractors, and impact wrench for the lower bolt.

I finally got up the courage to try again today with the warm temps.
I wire brushed the bolts. I've PB Blasted for the last week.
As usual, I am stuck before even the first rusted bolt can be turned.

What sort of socket setup did you use to on the upper bolts?
I think the upper bolts are 13mm, and the one lower bolt is 19mm.
I tried using a deep impact socket with extension bars,
the extension bar basically runs parallel to the shock, and is touching it.
A little awkward but I can manage, unless there's a better way.

So, I tried a 13mm, extension bars, and 1/2" ratchet. I really feel like the rusted bolt is stripping. I don't think it's turning, so I stopped.
People say their bolts snapped, but I feel like I am going to strip mine.
I can't possibly imagine this rusted bolt snapping before it just rounds off.
I am really afraid of stripping the rusted upper bolts in such a deep inconvenient cavity.
What happens is they round out? You can't get a wrench up in there.
Will I need to buy extra long drill bits and drill out the bolt?
What would a pro mechanic resort to if I bring him a shock job with stripped bolts?
I don't want to create a $500 project, if it comes to that.

Will the shock bolts break off just by using a ratchet? If so, which one 1/2" or 3/8??
Or did you use an impact wrench to break off the bolt head?

Will using an impact wrench strip the bolt head?

Any advice is appreciated.
I've had these shocks in my living room for over a year, and am sick of looking at them.


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Old 12-23-2013, 12:59 PM
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I also have a question about removing the lower bolt.
Any tips on removing the lower bolt?

I have already wire brushed the exposed threads, and tried to use a tap and die to clean the threads,
but I couldn't get the die to spin on without misthreading it.

Will this much rust cause problems?
Should I use an impact wrench on this bolt, or try the 19mm with 1/2" ratchet?
Will I need a breaker bar?
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:39 PM
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All that's needed hammer and punch to knock out the nuts about 20 buck investment at harbor freight.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:47 PM
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Driver's side. I was able to get the impact wrench onto the first the upper shock bolt and it came out without breaking. This actually sucks b/c now I will have to reuse the crappy old bolt with mangled threads since the weld nut is still up there. I have no idea if it's going to re-thread back in.

I made the big mistake of removing the easy one first. Unfortunately, I am stuck on the other upper shock bolt. I see no way to get the impact wrench onto it. Everything is in the way. I tried various lengths of black impact extension bars. Short only. Long only. Short and long both. Something is always in the way.

I'm stuck. Any ideas what to do next? This is the 3rd time I've taken a day off for this shock job!
Do I jack up the truck and buy more extension bars to get total clearance?
As fully expected, I'll be lucky if this ends up being an 8 hour job for 1 shock.

No clearance up in there to use 1/2" ratchet or the impact gun on just the socket.


Axle tube blocks when short.


Shock mount just blocks the gun when the bars are long.

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Old 12-23-2013, 02:52 PM
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Using a 1/2" ratchet is guarenteed to snap them.

The bottom nut just requires a extra bowl of wheaties.

Honestly, your stuff looks a heck of alot better than mine did. This should take you an hour tops. There's a great tutorial on here to fish the botls, but apparently you already know that.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:56 PM
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Just remove the bottom nut,take the shock out from the bottom and then push to the side,that will give up the room to use the impact wrench.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:58 PM
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by prcherokee
Just remove the bottom nut,take the shock out from the bottom and then push to the side,that will give up the room to use the impact wrench.
Thanks! I did think about this earlier, but this was before I got the first upper bolt removed. I didn't want to fully remove the lower bolt in case I messed it up and couldn't get it back on. Let's see what happens.
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:03 PM
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I ended up using a Dremel to cut the heads off of my upper bolts. Punched the rest out. Do the nuts holding the shock to the axle first and you can just push the shock out of the way when working overhead.
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dwright98xj
Using a 1/2" ratchet is guarenteed to snap them.

The bottom nut just requires a extra bowl of wheaties.

Honestly, your stuff looks a heck of alot better than mine did. This should take you an hour tops. There's a great tutorial on here to fish the botls, but apparently you already know that.
1/2" impact wrench did not snap the first one.

Bottom nut requires 1/2" impact wrench!

One hour? HAHAHHHAHHA. You don't know me very well.
It's 3 hours so far and I've gotten 1 bolt out.
8 hours IF all goes well.
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
I ended up using a Dremel to cut the heads off of my upper bolts. Punched the rest out. Do the nuts holding the shock to the axle first and you can just push the shock out of the way when working overhead.
Again, worlds of experience, obvious when you're a old pro.
I wanted to remove the upper bolts first, since they looked the hardest
I always work in a defensive manner, in case I need to abort.
I need to start thinking abotu what to remove in the order it makes things most convenient.

Could you get a dremel up in there?
Or, only after you removed the lower bolt?

Ok, I'm heading back out!
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:10 PM
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You, know, this also would be a lot easier, with the Jeep up in the air and minus the tires?

I did mine with old fashion brute force, and I'm not that big of a guy wither. But, to each there own. Keep soldiering on.
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper

Again, worlds of experience, obvious when you're a old pro.
I wanted to remove the upper bolts first, since they looked the hardest
I always work in a defensive manner, in case I need to abort.
I need to start thinking abotu what to remove in the order it makes things most convenient.

Could you get a dremel up in there?
Or, only after you removed the lower bolt?

Ok, I'm heading back out!
Nope only done it once, i removed the rear axle completely as I was replacing it but recognize the value in moving the shock. With the shock hanging from the top it will flex on the rubber bushing and you can tie it to one side.
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:13 PM
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I plan on doing my bottom nut with a 3/8 ratchet. I think I'll be OK.
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:27 PM
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I removed the bottom nut, but have no idea how to get this thing free.
I tried to tap it out with a rubber mallet. Bounced off like it was a toy.
It's rock solid and won't budge. I don't want to damage anything.

Do I use a steel hammer to smash out the bolt?
Will this damage threads?

Is there too much weight on the shock?
Does the car need to be jacked for there to be play?



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