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Order of operations on gauge cluster/sending units swap

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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 09:18 AM
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jk215cherokee's Avatar
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Default Order of operations on gauge cluster/sending units swap

Doing the idiot light to gauge swap on my 95 xj this weekend and have a quick question. I got the gauge cluster off Ebay and while it says fully functional Im not totally sure on its condition. If I install the gauge cluster first and do the diagnostics test does it matter that I havent swapped my oil pressure/coolant temp sending units yet? Thanks!
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 10:11 AM
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Nope. They're just going to read "wicked" on oil pressure and "friggin cold" on the coolant temp.

That's from my experience. I'm not responsible for you burning out a circuit lol

Last edited by 94JeepCherokeeMan; Jul 17, 2013 at 10:15 AM.
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 11:20 AM
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I would get the proper sending units. The light gauges are simple on/off switches activated when the sending reaches a preset limit. The gauge type senders are analog, and send varying voltages either to the gauge or to the PCM for conversion depending on the vehicle year. Later years use digital, that is the reason the sending units are different for different years, even though the block is similar.
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JWelk
I would get the proper sending units. The light gauges are simple on/off switches activated when the sending reaches a preset limit. The gauge type senders are analog, and send varying voltages either to the gauge or to the PCM for conversion depending on the vehicle year. Later years use digital, that is the reason the sending units are different for different years, even though the block is similar.

I have the new sending units but I figured I would install the gauge cluster first and make sure it works with diagnostics test. After Im sure its good I would install the sending units. I would hate to install the sending units first then learn my new gauge cluster is busted after the fact.
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 11:56 AM
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Meh, sending units are easy to swap out. A deep-well socket or open-end wrench work great. I think they're 3/4", IIRC
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