Richarnold3

Hello all!

I was hoping to get some advice/opinions on buying a Cherokee. I'd like to use it as an all-purpose vehicle with the possibility of modifying it later on.

Here is some criteria that I can think of:

Want the XJ.
What are good model years to check out?
Bad model years?
How many miles on the vehicle is too much generally speaking?
Should I be a minimalist and look for no extras to get in the way like A/C,
airbag, etc...?

I think you see where I'm going with this. I want the most bang for the buck so to speak.

To all you experts out there, please help! I too would like to own an XJ. I went from a '97 Wrangler to a RAV4. What a mistake.

Sincerely,
Rich

Kyle

What are your main purposes for this vehicle going to be?

Generally the consensus is if you want an old body style XJ get a 96 and if you want a new style get a 99.

Look for the c8.25 rear axle (it is noticeably flat on the bottom)

FWIW if/when I ever look for another XJ I wont get one unless it is under 150k miles.

dabeast727

id say 97+, if you can get like a 99 youll get not only a diesel front axle (HP30) but also a 8.25 rear with 29 spline shafts. Look for things like that, DEFINITLY get the 4.0 do NOT get the 4 cyl. Manual is also good you will have much less problems. Again later models used the venerable AX15. Make sure theres no rust thats a plus.

Richarnold3

My main purpose would be a do-all vehicle. Of course I would like to do some mods to it, what guy wouldn't. But I want to start with the best platform I possibly could (while keeping the price down). I live on Long Island, so there are lots of beaches with deep soft sand I'm used to going on when I had my Wrangler. Please keep in mind my knowledge base is somewhat limited in your replies.

COSXJFAN

As long as it's a well maintained 4.0 liter you really can't go wrong. You might want to look for a Dana 44 or Chrysler 8.25, but that all depends on how major your "mods" are going to be. Any well maintained 4.0 XJ will serve you well into the 200,000 mile range, if not more! Check for leaks and all of the other stuff that you need to look at when buying a used Jeep. Renix or H.O. 4.0 liters are freaking bullet proof engines!! Shop with faith!! You'll find a dandy!!

Richarnold3

Where do I look?

How can I be sure what components the XJ has? Will the VIN# tell me everything? What web address can I plug in the VIN#? Thanx.

COSXJFAN

Start with private sellers. You will get the best deal there. Dealers are always trying to make every buck they can. Also try not to buy from the salt belt regions. Such as the coast or where it snows a lot. It is worth a pretty long drive to know that your not going to have a rusty nightmare to deal with everytime you work on it!! GOOD LUCK!!!!

Kyle

Theres only a couple of huge changes in the XJ.

1. The engine (go with a 4L)
2. The TC - you can determine the two because the 242 has a full time 4wd mode where the 231 does not.
3. The rear axle - d35 is sort of egg shaped while the c8.25 is flat on the bottom of the pumpkin.

As for places to look.
1. Local papers
2. Craigslist
3. Ebay
4. Misc online car traders

Richarnold3

Thanks, but I don't feel that confident. I'd like for this to be a learning experience where I could possibly progress to doing some build-ups myself but I'm afraid that my lack of knowledge at this stage is crucial to selecting the right vehicle which will be the building block for anything else I may do to the vehicle. Please continue with feedback.

Kyle

The thing you will learn quickly is that parts for the XJ can be had (usually) pretty inexpensively. You would be ahead of the game if you found one that really suited you (must have a 4.0). At that point things can be changed and/or built upon to match your exact needs.

cherokeefamily

This is very true! I live in the Northeastern Ohio snow belt and both of my XJ's have cancer. My Pops just found an '01 in beautiful condition down in the Mansfield area and there is no rust on it. And yes, the rusty ones can be a nightmare to work on.

BlueXJ

Several factors enter into such a purchase. As mentioned several times the 4.0L engine is the only choice there. As to the transmission I personally like the auto which is an AW4 because it is very near bulletproof. Rarely needs more than an occasional fluid change and can easily go half a million miles before replacement. Mileagewise, less is always better but you can count on getting 200K plus miles from an engine that is kept up. Transfer case is again a personal preference. I like the 242 with the fulltime option, but they are slightly weaker than the 231 w/o the fulltime option. Rear axles are another bone of contention, I would say the newer Cryco 8.25s are stronger than the D35 by quite a bit but if you are just planning on slightly larger tires than stock the D35 will do OK for awhile. You can upgrade at a later time so don't let that be a deal breaker.
All that being said you can see by my signature that I like the old stuff because the electronics can be diagnosed with a multimeter and does not need a scan tool and has no Check Engine Light(CEL) the newer ones can be taken to a parts house such as Advance Auto and most of them will put their scan tool on it to tell you what has caused the CEL to come on. I like figuring out my own problems and fixing them myself. If you are a fix it myself guy you understand my viewpoint if not then the mechanic may become your best friend.
Hope this helped you make a decision or at least gave you a better understanding of the beast we all love.

cherokeefamily

Here are some cool sites with good breakdowns on the XJ:

http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/index.html

http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xjstockspecs.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_%28XJ%29

COSXJFAN

Well put KD!!!

Richarnold3

How do I know what the specs are on the vehicle if the owner doesn't even know. Is there a way of knowing before I drive to see it. Can I tell by the VIN the axle ratio, etc, etc, etc...?