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open cooling conversion fan sensor

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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 10:27 PM
  #16  
djb383's Avatar
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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Originally Posted by red4dr
I will agree with you on the burping, i always thought i had all the air out nice and easy, but you see some stories on here that have always made me wonder if i had all the air out or not.
I also want an open cooling system because i like to be able to open a cap and see there is coolant in there. I know it sounds stupid, and even to me it sounds dumb as a stand alone argument, but it just feels weird to not have that option.
Since the "closed system" bottle is the highest part in the cooling system and coolant should always visible in the bottle, the rad should always be full as well. On a "open system" the rad cap should be the highest part in the cooling system (so air will bleed) and the 2 valves in the "open system" rad cap must both function correctly. I've seen plenty of "open systems" where coolant level in the bottle was fine, but the rad was almost empty, due to a bad rad cap . With an open system, one must remove the rad cap to insure the rad is full.....with a closed system, all u gotta do is look at the bottle to insure the rad is full.

Last edited by djb383; Mar 9, 2013 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 11:46 PM
  #17  
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From: SO CAL
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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hm, the wifes grand has the overflow bottle above the radiator cap, i was pretty much modeling my swap after her system. she has an 04 grand with the 4.0. will this effect the system? having the bottle slightly higher than the rad?
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #18  
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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If the bottle is pressurized, the bottle needs to be the high point.....if the bottle is not pressurized, the 2 valve rad cap needs to be the high point.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 03:24 PM
  #19  
highmileage's Avatar
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From: Bakersfield CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by red4dr
i was under the impression that the later year sensor was not an on off switch like the renix ones are. that it used a different calculation or something to switch on.
My new radiator is a csf 3 row and there is no spot for the sensor. I was just hoping to sort this all out before i put it in so i know my fan will work.
The set-up I have came out of a 93 and it works just the same as the Renix but has a lower kick on point somewhere around 160-180 degrees. Your best bet though would be the have a radiator shop add the bung to your radiator for the factory set-up(if possible). I had to do my cooling system swap on a budget and utilize parts on hand.
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