Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

One thing leads to another..

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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:13 AM
  #1  
lastclodstanding's Avatar
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From: Fitzgerald, GA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: stock 4.0
Default One thing leads to another..

Man this XJ is gonna kill me. So I started with a $300 89 XJ. First I realize the reason it wasnt running was a faultly fuel pump. While replacing the pump I see the tank is full of rust. Drop the tank to clean only to find that there are several small pin holes though the tank. I robbed a almost perfect tank from a junk Pioneer and bought a new sending unit and pump. Get that fixed to find out the breaks are shot. Luckly I have a few friends with XJ's and robbed a power brake system from one of them to replace the abs unit. Then having been trying to patch up the vacume system, just bit the bullet and bought an entire new hose system from a friend at Advance. Get this all together and ended up replacing the air box also. Finally running and stopping on its own. The exhaust system decides it wants to finish breaking in two, just before the muffler. So I buy an entire new exhaust system for it (yet to install). Went ahead and bought a 4.5" lift kit for it. While starting on the front and dropping the axle I decided to address my oil pressuse wows. Well I figured it was also a good time to replace the valve cover gasket and replace the valve stem seals. Cleaned the head best as possible with it attached to the engine still. Vacummed and cleaned all the desposits from it, spit shined the rods, rockers and springs. Reassembled all and figured that was too easy something nasty was about to happen. Now I know the rear main seal was leaking and the XJ would benifit from a HV pump. Then I dropped the oil pan, suprisingly clean too, and find very little trash in the bottom of the pan. I take the rear main cap loose and clean it first then replace the seal in the cap and then I replace the seal on the crank. Didnt know it could be done honestly, had Brian (a good friend and XJ nut), show me. So I proceed to replace the pump. Prime the new one and install it. Go ahead and clearance the oil pan and just about to reinstall when I think....DANGEROUS FOR ME USUALLY....heck I need to check the timing chain. Man that thing has so much freggin slack I dont see how it hasnt jumped yet. Now I had already bought a timing chain set just in case, but now that is where I stand. Gonna start on it this weekend hopefully. Only having about 2 hrs of spare time a evening is slowing down my project a lot. I am gonna post up a build thread once I get her done. So you will see the 56K beware post coming soon. Sorry for the overly long post, just needed to vent.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:18 AM
  #2  
Cherokee4X4's Avatar
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Default

Think about what you have learned!

Haven't you heard
Just
Empty
Every
Pocket

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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:34 AM
  #3  
Bouncy's Avatar
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 490
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From: Monroe, MI
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker
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WOW...at the point your at, you could have just about replaced the motor with a HO low mileage unit and been in decent shape.

I hope when you replaced the brake system, you used a 95 dual diaphrame booster. Brakes on the single were poop. The dual setup about puts you through the windshield...Ask me sometime how I know that one.

Look at the bright side...You bought a jeep for $300 and for under 2k you will have a vehicle that will last a long time.

I bought mine for $750. Name of my game is How Cheap can I build it. Its at about 8-10k now which is alot cheaper than the 30k+ I have into my non-moving, non-finished, long way to go CJ7.

Learn to buy used parts as much as possible and go with other peoples old lift kits etc.

You mentioned 4.5" springs...Go buy a set of dakota leaf packs and research on building a Bastard Pack real leaf setup. It will net you the 4.5" in the rear for about $70. $50 for the springs at a junk yard and then new center pins and new spring bands to keep them from separating.

Also learn a trick on Tighting a bolt/nut before loosening. It will save you lots of time in drilling out broken bolts. Crank tighten a 1/4 turn maybe then loosen. Sometimes you have to repeat if it tightens up while coming out. It cleans the threads by tightening and allows removal without breaking in about 90% of the cases for me.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:38 AM
  #4  
COSXJFAN's Avatar
Do you hear banjos?
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Model: Cherokee
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Sounds like the usual!! I think you could start at on end and by the time you got back to that point you would need to start over again!! It's a labor of love isn't it!!
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:39 AM
  #5  
COSXJFAN's Avatar
Do you hear banjos?
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Model: Cherokee
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BTW, Bouncy, your avatar makes me laugh my a$$ off!! Funny stuff!!
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:20 AM
  #6  
lastclodstanding's Avatar
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From: Fitzgerald, GA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: stock 4.0
Default

I hate to curse myself, but I havent had the first broken bolt yet. That may all chance when it comes to the rear leafs frame bolts.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:28 AM
  #7  
COSXJFAN's Avatar
Do you hear banjos?
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Model: Cherokee
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Lots and lots of PB for several days will give you the best chance to get them out!! Just my $.02 worth, hope it helps!! Lots a luck!!
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:28 AM
  #8  
BlueXJ's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
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From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Default

Originally Posted by lastclodstanding
I hate to curse myself, but I havent had the first broken bolt yet. That may all chance when it comes to the rear leafs frame bolts.
Then before you start the rear leaves check on Strykers build he has had the problems that you are worried about and also the solutions.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:34 AM
  #9  
Bouncy's Avatar
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 490
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From: Monroe, MI
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker
Default

Rear leaf frame bolts
Rear upper shock bolts
Axle side track bar bolts
Shackle bolts on spring side.
Oil pan bolts strip easy and break even easier under a heavy hand.

Oh yeah...bar pin bolts for front lower of shocks. Just do bar pin eliminators at that point.

lastly...for every bolt you remove...Clean it with a wire wheel....mine are mounted on a 6" grinder...then put antiseize on it before reinstalling. You will thank yourself later for it.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:36 AM
  #10  
Bouncy's Avatar
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 490
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From: Monroe, MI
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker
Default

Anyone ever see Rust Eater???? It was a yellow and brown can. Sold about 4-5 years ago. Can't find it anymore.

It actually really ate the rust. Pulled a few bolts out of exhaust systems that were minus the threads.

Anyways, can't find it on the internet, or anywhere. I miss that stuff. Spray, wait 20min...remove and never break a bolt. though I had to replace quite a few of them.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:38 AM
  #11  
BlueXJ's Avatar
Renix Super Guru
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Default

Never even heard about that stuff. If you ever find it let us know!!
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