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One step forward...2 back...Transfer case problems (again)>>

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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 05:03 PM
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Default One step forward...2 back...Transfer case problems (again)>>

Got the T-case in this weekend (first nice weather with an open schedule). I took the existing NP 242 out and put a replacement 231 in.

I may rebuild the 242 (or have someone else that knows what they are doing do it).

Now, the selector lever on the 'new' (used) 231 faced the wrong direction (up instead of down on my existing one)....took the lever off the original and put it on the replacement...seems to do fine.

Then one of the studs was missing on the replacement unit (and one had a frozen nut). Fixed both...the 'missing' stud hole was slightly buggered up with damaged threads so the stud I pulled from the original unit wouldn't start to thread into place...got the proper size drill bit and just drilled away the first 2 or 3 (buggered up) threads...started fine after that.

Oh, yea....the bolt on the driver's side sub-frame (trans support cross member) snapped. The other bolt and two nuts came off fine. Fortunately the floor is rotted out above it...so I drilled the old one out and got a good sized Metric Bolt to fit (and I'll tack weld the top of the bolt inside the vehicle...so I won't have a problem in the future).

So, went in fine (aside from one connection being different on the replacement...the one that controls the light on the dash).

Rear driveshaft went in smooth..

Front....(insert foul language here)....

The front connection (yoke?) on the replacement is a different size than was on the original T-case. The original has bolts that thread from the back of the vehicle...through the yoke and into the front drive shaft.

The replacement has what looks like the same connection at the front and rear diffs...a loose strap held on by two bolts going into the yoke.

So...easier to change out the front take off/yoke on the diff or get a different drive shaft to match?

I have a 30mm 12pt socket...it's a bit loose around the nuts that hold the yoke on. I've sprayed with PB Blaster to get the nuts ready to come off...and will get the proper socket size (in 6 pt...don't want to round it off).

Now to the questions...

So...what size socket is correct?
How to lock the T-case so I can remove the nut (I assume the one on the vehicle I can just put it into park and into 4 WD to lock the Trans and T-case, but the one that's on the ground will be a bit harder...)..

Or...

What drive shaft do I need to replace the one I have...

Or, don't bother...too much hassle...just get the thing rebuilt and put the original back in place...

Thanks!

AFARR
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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big pipe wrench on yoke on ears should hold it
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 06:22 PM
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Default Makes Sense...

Thanks!.

Just have to figure out what size socket to get it off..
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:03 AM
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Default Bump to see if anyone knows what size nut (or any other ideas).

Anyone know what size nut it is? Any other thoughts?

Thanks!
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