Hey guys, I've been using this forum for a while on various fixes with my Jeep but I'm stuck now.

My Jeep will not start. It gives one click and then that's it. I've already had my starter and battery tested, both passed. Which has narrowed me down to either the CPS or the NSS. Recently my truck has been stalling while at stop lights, or anytime near idling, but not always the case. Some days it didn't happen at all. My check engine light was flashing at the time of it's last start, but that was due to a faulty O2 sensor which I have replaced and the light went off. So if my CPS was bad, wouldn't the check engine light still be on? Anyways, I think it may be my NSS because my Reverse lights don't go on.

I'm a broke college student with little auto repair knowledge so I just want to ask you guys for your opinion and see if anyone has had this problem before.

My diagnosis is that the NSS needs to be removed and cleaned, and my CPS is going bad but isn't the problem here yet.

1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport
2WD 4.0L Automatic
195,000 mi

 

Could be your starter relay. Check all the wiring in between.

 

rule out NSS switch by trying to start in neutral. If that don't work try holding the button in and moving while trying to crank. if it cranks its the NSS. Try taping the starter to see if it will crank after that. If that works then its the starter. worst case is gonna be CPS because it sucks to change, really hard to get to.

 

There's this. Over and over people think they are clean when they are not.:



Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!

 

if it's just a click then nothing, it's not the nss or the cps. it's most likely either a bad battery connection/ground (dead battery) or the starter motor.

nss won't have anything at all, not even a click and the cps will crank and crank but won't start.

it's battery or starter.

 

Use one of these on the battery terminals and post:


Read DFlintstone's post. After both are clean a thin layer of white grease will retard oxidation.

 

Thanks for all the tips so far!

I just replaced the starter relay, no dice.

And I cleaned the posts already, but not well enough I presume. I will head out again now to get the post brush.

Just a little info on the battery situation, I have full power to everything with my battery reading at 12.44v. When I turn the key and get the click only my radio clock goes out. So I think the battery connection may be the problem.

When I move the shifter and attempt to start, it only clicks in Park and Neutral so I don't believe that to be a problem.

I will continue to update until I get her starting again.

 

A test for AFTER the bat connections are ruled out. Carefully without getting run over: (you could pull the coil wire)

Have someone turn/hold the key on start while you tap/bash the starter/solenoid right then. If she cranks with that it's likely a faulty solenoid.

Once though is was the connection on the solenoid was loose and smacking it made it connect.

 

I discovered that the lead wires (+) to my starter were exposed, which could lead to corrosion. But the wire is secured to the boot without any type of fastener that I can remove. How do I remove this cable? And if needed, replace this cable? I.e. what do I need to purchase?

I appreciate all this help everyone. It's a blizzard outside, and all your suggestions keep giving me hope that I'm near the problem.

 

The last time I was there, (due to to sort of high cost of a new starter), I put a meter right on the pos post there on the starter, heard the solenoid click, and read over 11 volts there. Then I bought a starter.

Did you try smaken it with the key turned?

The cable to the starter, (connects to the solenoid) can be changed out, but being bare is just a bad sign, not necessary a problem.

I got to run, and I hope others can help. A bad connection or resistance will make heat. Even make a sound or smoke/steam. I might hold it 10 seconds then feel for a hot spot. You can be burned! You might even smell it first.

Jaming a wrench or pipe or screwdriver in between the large post from the battery, to connect to the small wire on the solenoid will energize the solenoid. Then it will then run over you if you are not careful. !

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/no...cklist-155216/

 

The only test I haven't run on the starter is hitting it while attempting to start. I'm going to check the voltage tomorrow morning, since I just purchased a multimeter today. The only reason I have ruled out the physical starter is because of the test I ran at Advance Auto. Right before I had mine tested, another individual had brought in his brand new one(probably defective) to be checked. His problems pointed to the solenoid, and sure enough, the starter spun but still failed. Meaning it was indeed a defective solenoid. Mine went into the machine and I had it spun three times. All passed. This is why I think the exposed(nearly an inch of copper wire) positive cable needs to be addressed. I still haven't found a solution for removing the wire from the boot. I really do not want to break anything since I am very limited on tools living in Milwaukee(my main tool arsenal is in Lake Geneva.)

Thank you BimmerJeeper for that link! That contains nearly every problem/solution that I've seen scattered around on here and across the internet.

 

You might give it a knock from above while someone holds the key over. I carry a 3 foot crowbar, but "taping" with the end of something smaller might do.

&X2 on the link Bimmer! my Renix is missing some stuff there....

 

That's exactly why I decided to make that page once and for all !

 

I just ran a voltage test across the starter and I'm receiving full power. The only thing left is to hit the starter and jump it. Both of which I need another person, but will have to wait until tomorrow to get someone over.