oilpan gasket and rms replaced, now the oil leak is worse
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Oregon (Wetside)
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
Now at this point you will have to take a good look at whether tightening down all the bolts warped the pan or not. When you tightened it down on the strap it may have now stretched and warped the pan out of plane. In which case it might not now tighten up correctly and tight against the rear seal like it should. If so this will have to be "adjusted" so that it seats with more pressure against the seal. There is going to be a trick to this. 
You will be OK if it seats against the seal and there is still a gap along both sides of the pan where all the bolts go down the sides. As long as it is trying to press the rear pan seal before it seats flush on the block.

You will be OK if it seats against the seal and there is still a gap along both sides of the pan where all the bolts go down the sides. As long as it is trying to press the rear pan seal before it seats flush on the block.


Something related to your good catch on this though, I am now curious if he knows that the rear pan seal is not the rear main seal? two totally different critters at the same end of the motor that can leak.
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Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Aurora CO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think it may have also ruined the strap and lets hope it didn't dig into the pan seal and ruin it to. But it doesn't really need the strap and it can be replaced with a different one very easily later on if he wants it to be correct and complete. 
Something related to your good catch on this though, I am now curious if he knows that the rear pan seal is not the rear main seal? two totally different critters at the same end of the motor that can leak.

Something related to your good catch on this though, I am now curious if he knows that the rear pan seal is not the rear main seal? two totally different critters at the same end of the motor that can leak.

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Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Aurora CO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think it may have also ruined the strap and lets hope it didn't dig into the pan seal and ruin it to. But it doesn't really need the strap and it can be replaced with a different one very easily later on if he wants it to be correct and complete. 
Something related to your good catch on this though, I am now curious if he knows that the rear pan seal is not the rear main seal? two totally different critters at the same end of the motor that can leak.

Something related to your good catch on this though, I am now curious if he knows that the rear pan seal is not the rear main seal? two totally different critters at the same end of the motor that can leak.


But the seal... There is no real pressure on it from the inside so as long as there are no gashes that go from inside to the outside and the pan touches it all the way around you might be OK. Let me know if it looks like the the pan it's self is warped and not going to put pressure on the seal after it is bolted up tight and I will explain how to shape it back so that it does without having to take it out.
Last edited by Bugout4x4; Feb 11, 2018 at 04:55 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 115
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From: Aurora CO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Good deal! The worry I have about the strap is in how it's made. It usually has some sort of vertical shaping or raised bumps to make it work like a spring when tightened down. If it is deformed it might be hard to shape it back like it belongs. But it is not a problem at all to just leave it off for now and replace it with another one at some point later if it is bent out of shape. All you have to do is pull just those few bolts to put the new one in. 
But the seal... There is now real pressure on it from the inside so as long as there are no gashes that go from inside to the outside and the pan touches it all the way around you might be OK. Let me know if it looks like the the pan it's self is warped and not going to put pressure on the seal after it is bolted up tight and I will explain how to shape it back so that it does without having to take it out.

But the seal... There is now real pressure on it from the inside so as long as there are no gashes that go from inside to the outside and the pan touches it all the way around you might be OK. Let me know if it looks like the the pan it's self is warped and not going to put pressure on the seal after it is bolted up tight and I will explain how to shape it back so that it does without having to take it out.
edit: nevermind I see what you mean now if it's that little ride on the end of the crank, hopefully that won't be super worn down now, I didn't hear any scraping or grinding noises but I think it would wear down the strap first anyways
Last edited by greynolds17; Feb 11, 2018 at 04:52 PM.
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