how hard is it to replace the oil pan gasket, i noticed its leaking today, it started once i put a little thinner oil in it for winter, i figured why not fix it now before it gets hot again

 

if you xjs lifted it a lot easier if you do it do your self a big favor and use the felpro blue slicone gasket and if you can replace the rear main seal while your in there.

 

i have the same problem....can i get the gasket at any parts store or is that a dealer only part?? and does anyone have a part number

 

isnt there also another pain replacing the oil pan gasket? something with the lip getting pushed in?

 

i got mine at bennet this gasket is pretty easy to install 2 people are also a plus

 

yeah im lifted 4 and a half inches so i dont have to drop the axle and all that nonsense that the haynes book says how easy is it to replace the rear main while im in there? i wouldnt think it would be too bad, seeing as its right there, but i dont know if theres anything else i gotta do once the pans off

also anybody know if you can get a bigger oil pan for the 4.0s? or is it not worth it

 

Gonna need a torque wrench and a socket to turn the crank pully nut. Remove rear main cap then you push the old seal out with a small screw driver being careful not to scrach the crank with screw driver while turning the motor by crank shaft nut . Note which wayit comes out put new one on crank, turn motor again feeding the seal in install other pc of seal on main cap you pulled off, i always put a dab off silicone between the two pcs. reinstall rearmain cap and torque to specs thats it

 

Its not too terribly difficult, but some parts are a pain in the a$$. Make sure that you get the felpro gasket. The rear main portion of the job is easy, its getting the oil pan to seat properly on the gasket thats tricky. Also make sure that you use a small amout of silicone gasket maker on the corners and where the gasket curves for the rear main bearing, or else you will find yourself pulling the oil pan again a week later to fix it like I did...NOT FUN

Just my .02

 

alright thanks guys, i know i can do it, i just wanted to see what i would need to do to get it done

 

mine is lifeted 3.5 inches or so, i just had to lift the front just a hair and the pan droped straight out. when you get the rear main seal started just grab it with a dry rag and it should spin right on out with out turning the ctrank and all that. Oil the new one and just feed it in the same way. It wouldnt hurt to chek a rod bearing while you are in there and notice the condition of you main beaering

 

yeah ive been looking forward to checking all that, ill know just how long till my motor goes and that stroker can be built

 

If they arent hurt dont worry about it. If they look like mine did(all brass) the crank could be worn. you can plastiguage new bearings if you change them to see what clearances you got. .003 is alowable so anything under that is a plus.
Mine are .003 up to .006 mine still knocks at startup...thanks P.O. It was doing it when i bought it. it sounded like the valave train. I guess i can see how much my oil helps when there is already an issue.
Just do one at the time so you dont mix up the rod caps. all of it can be done in a few hours.Rod bearings are about $40 If thats what it is

 

With regards to the rod and main bearing, what exactly would I be looking for to check for wear or damage?

 

when you do your rear main seal make sure you use the anaerobic gasket maker. I didnt use it the first time I did the job, and had to re-do it.

Its only a few bucks at autozone

There is also a really good write up on here somewhere

Chuck

 

Are you talking like RTV gasket maker?