Hi
I’m completing oil pan gasket on my 2001 xj and went around torquing everything. 7ft for 7/16 heads bolts and 11ft for 1/2 bolt heads. The center bolt under crank pulley the final bolt soon my torque began beeping it stripped.
Is there a trick to rethread? Run longer bolt? Looking for ideas what I can do
Thanks you guys
You probably already looked but did the threads on the bolt strip or the threads in the block?
Unlike the aluminum transmission case it takes some doing to strip cast iron.
But who knows who was in there before you.
If it's under the crank that puts the bolt into the timing cover.. And that's aluminum.. Those few bolts in the timing cover won't take much abuse and commonly strip...The above solutions are your only real options for reliability...
If it's under the crank that puts the bolt into the timing cover.. And that's aluminum.. Those few bolts in the timing cover won't take much abuse and commonly strip...The above solutions are your only real options for reliability...
If it's under the crank that puts the bolt into the timing cover.. And that's aluminum.. Those few bolts in the timing cover won't take much abuse and commonly strip...The above solutions are your only real options for reliability...
yup that’s it literally the one below crank seal. When removing bolts originally bolt did feel loose but didn’t but much thought to it
Make sure the bolt you are installing is not worn, and the proper length. Wrap the crap out of it with teflon tape. Put it in finger tight...then 1/2 proper torque. Of it holds then go a little more and leave it. Mark it so you can see if it Backs out...see if oil pan leaks..if not then leave it
sorry dude, a torque wrench is the wrong tool to be using on dusty Al threads (in my not so humble opinion)
We just went through this debate on another forum, with much disagreement, but it is all about feel, which is lost with a torque wrench
In your case, I would teflon tape it, as already said, and use Loctite Screwlock, which is a mild thread locker and sealer, it can easily be undone with hand tools, but should seal and hold the fastener, unless the threads are totalled
Inspect it frequently for weepage
If it fails, helicoil or other insert is the proper repair, I have done quite a few.
A bit time consuming and expensive, but it does cure a potentially engine destroying minor fault permanently
Take a piece of copper wire and carefully wrap it to match the treads. Wire needs to be thicker then treads but not to thick. Coat it with red loc tite and thread slowly. Do not torque it.
Take a piece of copper wire and carefully wrap it to match the treads. Wire needs to be thicker then treads but not to thick. Coat it with red loc tite and thread slowly. Do not torque it.
Above should work
I have also remembered how I "fixed" the trans pan bolts that the PO had stripped out
Cant recall whether the little ***** are metric or imperial, but I got the next size up thread, its the opposite of whats in there.
They self-tap perfectly in there !
I had the correct tap, but did not need it, after the first one, I just self tapped with anti-sieze, and painted the 3 or so heads red, so I would know which was metric vs imperial
May not work in this application, I would try other techniques first
The trans pan bolts are metric M6-1.0. A 1/4-20 bolt will self tap new threads. Press hard when screwing it in. Sometimes a longer bolt will catch enough threads too.
So follow up I was able to get a longer bolt to work.
original bolt was 1/2” length source couple bolts from work at 3/4 and 1” length of 1/4-20. I used 3/4 length bolt and 2 washers and it was perfect
Good fix...keep an eye on it and makes sure its tight every couple of weeks. If you send me your address, i can send you a tube of anti rotation lacquer that will show quickly if bolt is loosening
