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oil filter adapter question

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Old 10-11-2014, 09:07 PM
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I'm not drinking any koolaide just stating a fact...my truck has 338k miles and going with a Orange death can
Old 10-11-2014, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wickedwelder
Went and picked up the Dorman assortment o-rings. Hope to get it all changed out tonight. I looked through my hanes/Chilton books and couldn't find the torq spec listed anywhere. When I Googled it, just about everything I read said that they tightened the bolt as far as they could.

Does anyone know what the torq is for the adapter?

Thanks again for all the help
I've always just gone with as tight as I could go, with restraint. Don't wanna snap the hollow bolt. IIRC Torque spec is around 50ft-lbs. Never had a leak or need to retighten yet. Not likely to get a Torque wrench in there anyway.
Old 10-11-2014, 10:02 PM
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I believe many brands of filters are Chinese made anyway...
.
Two other forums I'm on have had many threads on filters. Some pictures of drain-back valves in various brands are "interesting "

I don't use the Fram stuff myself...Wix seems to be popular with many people....
Old 10-11-2014, 10:08 PM
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I would use Baldwin or upholstery in my truck as do I my jeep, but it's hard to find around here
Old 10-12-2014, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mentalbreakdown00
my truck has 338k miles and going with a Orange death can
Did you buy it new?

From.. http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/reference.html#fram
Fram Extra Guard PH8A

This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are bonded in place using a thermal adhesive. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap. In practice these seem to leak, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you use this filter and have a noisy valve train at startup, the filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak when they should be closed. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow."
Old 10-13-2014, 02:05 AM
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I walked into Napa.... Asked for a 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 oil adaptor o-ring kit.

He walked to the back and came back with a little baggie of what I needed!

Easy peazy!
Old 10-13-2014, 02:20 AM
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Dare ya to try that with an 87-90, HO kits are easy to find.
Old 10-13-2014, 06:39 PM
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people must not read the whole post or other comments. it was said multiple times that it was a renix era and everyone seems to be posting that they had no problem with their ho kit......... shake my head......
Old 10-13-2014, 06:47 PM
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Likely it being the same Mopar part # for the big ring, for all, that threw some people off track.
Old 10-13-2014, 08:00 PM
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I had no idea they would even be different! Learn something new everyday
Old 10-13-2014, 08:40 PM
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Renix has a metric thread for the filter. Looks like when Chrysler bought Jeep and changed that, they changed the inner O rings as well.
Old 10-13-2014, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by red4dr
people must not read the whole post or other comments. it was said multiple times that it was a renix era and everyone seems to be posting that they had no problem with their ho kit......... shake my head......
CORRECT!

Posts 7, 14, and 16 give the correct info...
Old 10-14-2014, 01:03 AM
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I want to thank everyone for their responses. I got the o-ring fun finished last night. Took a bit to find the right ones. I had bought the dorman kit, but wasn't real happy with it. It had one to match the adapter to the block, but for the other two they were wither just under size or just over. So off to autozone I go. That was a waste of time there. After almost 20 min of watching father time and his twin stare at the computer like they never seen one, back down the road I go.
Pulled into O'Reilly parts and with in 5 minutes had a fel-pro o-ring and a box of various ones to compare to the two smaller ones. Which I was so thankful for since the jeep was torn apart in the garage.
So get it all put back together, top off the oil, fire her up and let it run for around 10min. Check for leaks, it all looks good. So I was happy that I would no longer smoke bomb the stop lights(lol). But I'm not that lucky I guess. Drove to work this morning(about 20min drive) get out and what do I see and smell.......smoke! So I get down and look under my Jeep and there is oil leaking. I checked the oil filter adapter and its dry no leaks. The oil is dripping off of the trans inspection plate and into rhw exhaust.
So now I'm at a total loss of where the oil is coming from.
Sorry for the novel, but does anyone have any ideas of where else it could be coming from?
Thanks again for all the help.
Old 10-14-2014, 01:24 AM
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Check the back (firewall) of the valve cover for oil seepage, if not there ... Then you are looking at a real live bona-fide rear main leak and need to drop the pan and rear bearing cap to change it.
Old 10-14-2014, 03:05 AM
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Here is a few good charts for o-rings:
www.PrecisionAssoc.com
http://www.rubberstore.com/catalogs/...ings-chart.php
www.oringswest.com
I have used to get the proper orings for my Renix.


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