Oil Filter Adapter o-ring
04-18-2012, 03:33 AM
#77
I did mine a few weeks back. I changed motor mounts at the same time and found the easy way to do this. With the motor mounts removed use a ratchet strap to pull the motor to the drivers side. Just used a break over bar and a t-60 on my 96. Came out easy greasy. Hope this will help someone else along the way.
06-01-2012, 12:05 AM
#78
Newbie
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Did this today on my 99. I bought the Torx "L" set from O'Reilly's for $10 and used a long wrench for leverage, put the box end over the Torx tool. Steady pressure and it spun loose. The large outer seal was quite hard but the inner seals were in good shape. I replaced all 3 seals since they all came in one pack from the dealer (paid $4).
Not much oil dripped out but I had a pan under there just in case. If I had to guess, I'd say about about 4 ounces came out.
Total time was about 30 minutes and I am very glad to get this done. That leak was annoying.
Not much oil dripped out but I had a pan under there just in case. If I had to guess, I'd say about about 4 ounces came out.
Total time was about 30 minutes and I am very glad to get this done. That leak was annoying.
Sir,
I also have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee. I have an oil leak near the oil filter adapter (OFA). Did you have enough room to remove the OFA? Did you remove the starter as others suggested? Or did you need to remove the engine mount? Did you have to apply blue Loctite when you reinstalled the OFA?
Thanks in advance for your time reading my note. If you have time to respond to my message, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
E.L. Rey
10-02-2012, 01:32 AM
#79
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pahoa, Hawaii
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO K&N filter #703 injectors
Does anyone have any idea what the dealer charges to change the o-rings? I have tried everything but cutting it off (because I can't find a spare adapter)
I have 190,000 miles on my cherokee I thinks it's welded on!
I have 190,000 miles on my cherokee I thinks it's welded on!
10-02-2012, 01:45 AM
#80
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SC
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
put some muscle into it and save $
my tools of choice with a pipe over the wrench for leverage.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/i-b...1/#post2007313
my tools of choice with a pipe over the wrench for leverage.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/i-b...1/#post2007313
Last edited by Bbasso; 10-02-2012 at 01:47 AM.
10-02-2012, 05:49 AM
#81
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 14
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter 6 cyl inline
It feels welded, but it's not; it's Loc-Tite red
It does act like it's welded. It isn't. The center bolt of the oil filter adapter has (nearly) non-removable threadlocker applied at the factory, like Loc-Tite 262 red. The bolt is intended to never vibrate loose and fall out.
The first time I crossed swords with the OFA I spent over half a day getting that evil bolt free. On about the 5th attempt at getting it loose, I broke a Snap-On combination wrench used with a Torx hex bit removed from a Torx 1/2" socket; I put a piece of heavy steel water pipe, 1" or 1-1/4" by 18", over the wrench handle to gain leverage; I was amazed at the amount of muscle power to the pipe when the box end of the wrench broke off.
For some people, I think high engine temperature degrades the Loc-Tite somewhat, making it easier for some than others to remove the bolt.
If you own one, a big (18" or 24") Ridgid pipe wrench over a Torx hex bit will work, but for my money and safety, the best method is first quality Torx L-wrench and 24" of 3/4" steel water pipe as a torque multiplier slipped over the handle of the L-wrench. It's also vital to keep the Torx bit wedged tightly into the OFA bolt head with a wedge to keep the bit from jumping out and to protect the frame from scratches. Home Depot has some glass-filled nylon wedge kits used for installing door casing that are really tough and won't split like wood that work well. In an earlier post to this thread you will find a bill of materials I prepared with makers of wrenches/bits with part numbers, and retail sources.
Before buying any tools, use a mirror to check your OFA bolt. Some OFA bolts after 1998 used an Allen hex bolt instead of Torx. My bill of material post has the size, maker and P/N of the Allen hex tools as well.
Let us know how things went.
The first time I crossed swords with the OFA I spent over half a day getting that evil bolt free. On about the 5th attempt at getting it loose, I broke a Snap-On combination wrench used with a Torx hex bit removed from a Torx 1/2" socket; I put a piece of heavy steel water pipe, 1" or 1-1/4" by 18", over the wrench handle to gain leverage; I was amazed at the amount of muscle power to the pipe when the box end of the wrench broke off.
For some people, I think high engine temperature degrades the Loc-Tite somewhat, making it easier for some than others to remove the bolt.
If you own one, a big (18" or 24") Ridgid pipe wrench over a Torx hex bit will work, but for my money and safety, the best method is first quality Torx L-wrench and 24" of 3/4" steel water pipe as a torque multiplier slipped over the handle of the L-wrench. It's also vital to keep the Torx bit wedged tightly into the OFA bolt head with a wedge to keep the bit from jumping out and to protect the frame from scratches. Home Depot has some glass-filled nylon wedge kits used for installing door casing that are really tough and won't split like wood that work well. In an earlier post to this thread you will find a bill of materials I prepared with makers of wrenches/bits with part numbers, and retail sources.
Before buying any tools, use a mirror to check your OFA bolt. Some OFA bolts after 1998 used an Allen hex bolt instead of Torx. My bill of material post has the size, maker and P/N of the Allen hex tools as well.
Let us know how things went.
Last edited by jpcallan; 10-05-2012 at 04:44 AM.
10-04-2012, 08:14 PM
#82
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pahoa, Hawaii
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO K&N filter #703 injectors
L wrench with a 2' pipe for leverage did the trick! Thanks so much for help and encouragement! I was worried I was going to break something on my DD and really be in a bind, but its fixed!
12-29-2012, 05:42 PM
#83
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
thats probably the best way of dealing with that torx nut i've read IMO. remove the engine mount and pry up the engine to get the torx socket in there.
but i'm curious if anyone has tried the Torx wrench that looks like an allen key but is the T60 on both ends. I have to change mine out and i'm thinking of trying one of those.
but i'm curious if anyone has tried the Torx wrench that looks like an allen key but is the T60 on both ends. I have to change mine out and i'm thinking of trying one of those.
to get the last 2-3 threads out, maybe could have done the whole job
with the bolt and nuts, Just risk reaming the shape of the mounting bolt.
Good luck
01-23-2013, 10:00 AM
#84
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Just thought I'd share my experience with this repair job since it seems there are a few different ways to do this and varying degrees of difficulty. I have a 97 XJ so mine came with the dreaded t60. It took me 3 hours start to finish which included a ride to auto zone for loc tite and a full oil change. This method may not work for everyone based on how bad your T60 adapter bolt is seized.
I used:
1- T60 Torx/Star bit (2 piece socket type) $4.99 (Autozone)
1- 12mm open end/box end wrench
1- 1" by 24" pipe $6.99 (Home Depot)
1- 3 O-ring set $7.26 (Dealer)
1- Can of throttle body cleaner $5.25 (Autozone)
1- Small tube of Permatex blue thread locker $5.00 (Autozone)
1- Small tap (to dismantle t60 Torx socket)
Total Cost $29.50
Method:
1- Using your tap, bang out the T60 bit from the socket. Easiest way is to grab a longer/larger socket, place the t60 bit upside down into the larger socket end, place tap through ratchet adapter hole and punch the bit out. Took me about 3 pounds with a hammer. Do this on a concrete floor, makes things much easier.
2- I put my jeep on home made wood ramps to have a little more play room underneath. You will probably want to lift it up a bit especially if your XJ isn't already lifted
3- Drain the oil from the oil pan and remove the oil filter. I see some people decided to leave it on, I took mine off to have more working room.
4- Disconnect the Neg. Battery terminal and remove the electrical connection near the oil adapter, again to give yourself as much room as possible.
5- Once the oil is drained, place your punched T60 bit into the female end of the star bolt on the oil adapter. Make sure the bit is in all the way. You may have to clean the female star hole out a bit. Mine was pretty crusty with road and oil grime.
6- While holding the bit in place with one hand, this is working from top down as opposed to working underneath the engine, slide the closed end of your 12mm wrench onto the t60 bit so that the angled end is pointing towards the engine block (much more working leverage).
7- Slide your 1" by 24" bar over the wrench making sure you give yourself enough room for the breaker bar to move. I had to tug the evap can hoses around to fit the bar in between.
8- Once everything is lined up and square, T60 on the oil filter bolt, 12mm closed end on t60 and bar on wrench, either using your finger (little more daring) or a block of wood, hold the t60 in place to avoid slipping/warping the bit while you slowly apply pressure on the bar. I would say mine took about 130lbs to break free. If yours is more stubborn, a helping hand would be nice to either hold the bit or apply pressure on the bar. A better alternative would be to weld the bit to the wrench as others have done to avoid slipping....
9- After the bolt breaks free, use your wrench to loosen up the rest of the way. Remove the adapter paying attention to not bend or break the pin that keeps the adapter aligned on the block. Once removed, push the bolt out of the adapter from the threaded side.
10- Remove the two old o-rings on the bolt as well as the large o-ring on either the adapter or on the block, wherever it decides to reside. Mine chose both. Now would be a good time to hit the adapter with throttle cleaner etc.
11- I dragged all 3 o rings through oil to both hold them in place and make for easier reassembly. I wouldn't apply any type of grease to these rubber o-rings.
12- Place the bolt with new o-rings back into the adapter, place the large o-ring on the back of the adapter, place blue thread locker to threaded side of the bolt and reinstall onto engine making sure the pin is aligned. Not too much science going on here, it'll make complete sense.
13- I didn't have torque specs so I just re-tightened with the breaker bar to approximately 100-125lbs or so.
14- I sprayed the entire side of the engine down with throttle cleaner to remove all the built up oil and road grime that had been accumulating. This also helps to determine if you have any more leaks after re-installation of the adapter. Pay particular attention to the starter motor and front side of the trans. Mine were CAKED with oil....
15- Tighten up your oil pan bolt, install new oil filter and add your oil. Check back for leaks periodically.
I understand this method might not work for everyone and I'm pretty sure others have chose this route before, I just thought a comprehensive write up with easy to obtain parts would be helpful for the first timer. Not having to remove the starter or get oil in your eyes under the truck is a great alternative for an outside Northeast Winter repair. My o-rings went at 120K, if she turns 240, I'll gladly do this again.
I used:
1- T60 Torx/Star bit (2 piece socket type) $4.99 (Autozone)
1- 12mm open end/box end wrench
1- 1" by 24" pipe $6.99 (Home Depot)
1- 3 O-ring set $7.26 (Dealer)
1- Can of throttle body cleaner $5.25 (Autozone)
1- Small tube of Permatex blue thread locker $5.00 (Autozone)
1- Small tap (to dismantle t60 Torx socket)
Total Cost $29.50
Method:
1- Using your tap, bang out the T60 bit from the socket. Easiest way is to grab a longer/larger socket, place the t60 bit upside down into the larger socket end, place tap through ratchet adapter hole and punch the bit out. Took me about 3 pounds with a hammer. Do this on a concrete floor, makes things much easier.
2- I put my jeep on home made wood ramps to have a little more play room underneath. You will probably want to lift it up a bit especially if your XJ isn't already lifted
3- Drain the oil from the oil pan and remove the oil filter. I see some people decided to leave it on, I took mine off to have more working room.
4- Disconnect the Neg. Battery terminal and remove the electrical connection near the oil adapter, again to give yourself as much room as possible.
5- Once the oil is drained, place your punched T60 bit into the female end of the star bolt on the oil adapter. Make sure the bit is in all the way. You may have to clean the female star hole out a bit. Mine was pretty crusty with road and oil grime.
6- While holding the bit in place with one hand, this is working from top down as opposed to working underneath the engine, slide the closed end of your 12mm wrench onto the t60 bit so that the angled end is pointing towards the engine block (much more working leverage).
7- Slide your 1" by 24" bar over the wrench making sure you give yourself enough room for the breaker bar to move. I had to tug the evap can hoses around to fit the bar in between.
8- Once everything is lined up and square, T60 on the oil filter bolt, 12mm closed end on t60 and bar on wrench, either using your finger (little more daring) or a block of wood, hold the t60 in place to avoid slipping/warping the bit while you slowly apply pressure on the bar. I would say mine took about 130lbs to break free. If yours is more stubborn, a helping hand would be nice to either hold the bit or apply pressure on the bar. A better alternative would be to weld the bit to the wrench as others have done to avoid slipping....
9- After the bolt breaks free, use your wrench to loosen up the rest of the way. Remove the adapter paying attention to not bend or break the pin that keeps the adapter aligned on the block. Once removed, push the bolt out of the adapter from the threaded side.
10- Remove the two old o-rings on the bolt as well as the large o-ring on either the adapter or on the block, wherever it decides to reside. Mine chose both. Now would be a good time to hit the adapter with throttle cleaner etc.
11- I dragged all 3 o rings through oil to both hold them in place and make for easier reassembly. I wouldn't apply any type of grease to these rubber o-rings.
12- Place the bolt with new o-rings back into the adapter, place the large o-ring on the back of the adapter, place blue thread locker to threaded side of the bolt and reinstall onto engine making sure the pin is aligned. Not too much science going on here, it'll make complete sense.
13- I didn't have torque specs so I just re-tightened with the breaker bar to approximately 100-125lbs or so.
14- I sprayed the entire side of the engine down with throttle cleaner to remove all the built up oil and road grime that had been accumulating. This also helps to determine if you have any more leaks after re-installation of the adapter. Pay particular attention to the starter motor and front side of the trans. Mine were CAKED with oil....
15- Tighten up your oil pan bolt, install new oil filter and add your oil. Check back for leaks periodically.
I understand this method might not work for everyone and I'm pretty sure others have chose this route before, I just thought a comprehensive write up with easy to obtain parts would be helpful for the first timer. Not having to remove the starter or get oil in your eyes under the truck is a great alternative for an outside Northeast Winter repair. My o-rings went at 120K, if she turns 240, I'll gladly do this again.
01-23-2013, 02:55 PM
#85
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I-6 <200k
Factory spec for the OFA bolt is 55 ft/lbs. Takes way more to break it loose b/c of the red loc-tite, tho. I didn't have a pipe of sufficient size and my 12mm wrench was bending, so I just ran a bead of silicon and called it a day :^/
01-23-2013, 06:21 PM
#86
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
I know this is an old thread but I found it very helpful . My 96 was leaking oil. I could’ve swore it wasthe rear main. So I left it alone andhad to put up with parking on the street (How embarrassing?) Thenone day while greasing up my front end I discovered the O.F.A leaking. After a lil research I decided it wassomething I could try. So I went to a u-pull it JY to see what it took to getone off ..Man was it tuff but doable.
On the way home I Picked up an O-ring set at the dealer for $8.35 I couldn’t find atorx L wrench so I tapped one out of asocket. Used the two wrench method.
As soon as I got home with the engine hot I Put my wrench toit and gave a BIG pull and broke it loose.
I then went in andhad a sandwich while the engine cooled down a bit.
It was all straight forward and downhill from there.
It defiantly broke loose a lot easier on my hot engine then on the coldengine at the JY
It took longer to get the parts and tools then to do thejob.
Thanks for all the Help.
On the way home I Picked up an O-ring set at the dealer for $8.35 I couldn’t find atorx L wrench so I tapped one out of asocket. Used the two wrench method.
As soon as I got home with the engine hot I Put my wrench toit and gave a BIG pull and broke it loose.
I then went in andhad a sandwich while the engine cooled down a bit.
It was all straight forward and downhill from there.
It defiantly broke loose a lot easier on my hot engine then on the coldengine at the JY
It took longer to get the parts and tools then to do thejob.
Thanks for all the Help.
01-30-2013, 02:33 PM
#87
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I-6 <200k
I got the o-ring set for $4.63 from the dealership in the Bronx, NY! It's not identical to the set I got from Rock Auto, so I'm kinda glad I didn't get it apart on the first try. The aftermarket set had identical smaller rings, whereas the oem are all three different sizes.
01-30-2013, 03:38 PM
#88
Senior Member
Did mine today. People are going to be jealous but my '87 (with a '91 engine) had a 5/8" hex head bolt on it. It came off really easy. All the o-rings were flat and hard. I had bought the kit from Chrysler but only the large o-ring was correct. The middle sized ring that goes on the "flat" was too thin (didn't protrude enough to make a seal) and the smallest rin was too fat (couldn't push the pin through). So, went to NAPA and got some others that were closer to the old flatties.
All buttoned up and leak free so far.
All buttoned up and leak free so far.
04-09-2013, 12:02 PM
#89
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I-6 <200k
Just a quick visual comparison:
On the left, oem o-rings from Jeep dealership.
On the right, o-rings from Rock Auto.
Comparing the aftermarket o-rings to oem, the largest is the same, the middle size is thicker and the smallest is way bigger in diameter and thickness.
I finally scored some pipe to wrench that dang ofa off.
I've been waiting to get around to it b/c I broke my foot and just quit giving a crap about it for a while.
I'll post when I find out which rings fit my '97 Country.
On the left, oem o-rings from Jeep dealership.
On the right, o-rings from Rock Auto.
Comparing the aftermarket o-rings to oem, the largest is the same, the middle size is thicker and the smallest is way bigger in diameter and thickness.
I finally scored some pipe to wrench that dang ofa off.
I've been waiting to get around to it b/c I broke my foot and just quit giving a crap about it for a while.
I'll post when I find out which rings fit my '97 Country.
04-21-2013, 10:54 PM
#90
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I-6 <200k
Got it done today with a 30" pipe taped onto my wrench/T-60 bit/zip tie custom jobbie. It took forever to get this unwieldly tool onto the bolt, but it gave easily with the leverage it afforded me.
The dealership's o-ring kit was an exact fit. The o-rings from Rock Auto were 2/3 correct.
As I was dipping the larger of the internal o-rings into a bottle of oil, I thought it would suck if it slipped out of my fingers into the bottle. Then it totally did. I dumped it into a pan and the re-bottled it and only lost a couple of ounces. All in all, it went smoothly and my oil filter no longer has a oil dripping from it.
The dealership's o-ring kit was an exact fit. The o-rings from Rock Auto were 2/3 correct.
As I was dipping the larger of the internal o-rings into a bottle of oil, I thought it would suck if it slipped out of my fingers into the bottle. Then it totally did. I dumped it into a pan and the re-bottled it and only lost a couple of ounces. All in all, it went smoothly and my oil filter no longer has a oil dripping from it.
