Oil cooler hose removal (again???)
#1
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Year: 1996
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Oil cooler hose removal (again???)
I've had a good search through the forums, as being on a few I'm aware the search button is my friend . However I've not managed to find an answer to my question, so here goes:
I've got a leak in one of the hoses, I've bought some transmission hoses and fuel line clips to attach the replacement hoses, however I've not figured out how to remove the flexihose from the solid hose that connects to the gearbox.
I've got the end removed with the daft little 'ear' type clips absolutely fine, but these have me stumped, pics below.
I've read about others simply cutting the flexihose off and replacing, which is what I intend to do, but am unsure whether or not the thick metal collar type things will be easy to remove after cutting the hoses off.
Any ideas on how to remove these things? Cheers.
I've got a leak in one of the hoses, I've bought some transmission hoses and fuel line clips to attach the replacement hoses, however I've not figured out how to remove the flexihose from the solid hose that connects to the gearbox.
I've got the end removed with the daft little 'ear' type clips absolutely fine, but these have me stumped, pics below.
I've read about others simply cutting the flexihose off and replacing, which is what I intend to do, but am unsure whether or not the thick metal collar type things will be easy to remove after cutting the hoses off.
Any ideas on how to remove these things? Cheers.
#2
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: V8
The collars can be removed, but your not going to enjoy doing it. I dont think it is possible while it is on the truck either. Its not often I say this but the best replacement part, is the OEM. Short of that, take the hose off and have new hoses installed on the old ends.
Ron
Ron
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Year: 1996
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Since I am going through the same thing I though I would post my solution. I put in a new radiator today (cracked at the side tank) and the POS angle fitting they supplied with the radiator leaked from minute one. I tried a little RTV but it didnt hold. A short trip to Oreilly's and I had a new fitting, two feet of fuel hose and clamps. I just cut the old hose at the quick fitting, removed the old fitting and replaced it. For the spot where the flex hose goes to tubing, I just cut off the line as close to the fitting, flared the tube a little and connected the fuel hose with new clamps. I just took it wheelin' and not a drop to be seen. It did die and throw a P0340 code but that is another story.
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Thanks for that jronald, I somehow knew it wasn't gonna be an easy one.
I'm currently doing a rad replacement as well as the previous one was a bit iffy when I got it and I've quite simply knackered it, so will take your mods into this head of mine as well 4xj4 just in case.
The pipes have been leaking for a fair while, I've just kept an eye on the fluid levels and topped up as necessary so far but as I had the rad out It made sense to do the hoses at the same time.
I am gonna be trying a repair on the rad first, which I shall take pics of before/during/after just in case it works as I'm not gonna be throwing a great deal of cash at this thing as it only cost me £150 (about $250) to buy and another £150 to get on the road.
I shall see how it goes for now, but shall more than likely end up buying a new rad, it may cost me a stupid amount in fuel at the moment, but it's a cracking motor.
I'm currently doing a rad replacement as well as the previous one was a bit iffy when I got it and I've quite simply knackered it, so will take your mods into this head of mine as well 4xj4 just in case.
The pipes have been leaking for a fair while, I've just kept an eye on the fluid levels and topped up as necessary so far but as I had the rad out It made sense to do the hoses at the same time.
I am gonna be trying a repair on the rad first, which I shall take pics of before/during/after just in case it works as I'm not gonna be throwing a great deal of cash at this thing as it only cost me £150 (about $250) to buy and another £150 to get on the road.
I shall see how it goes for now, but shall more than likely end up buying a new rad, it may cost me a stupid amount in fuel at the moment, but it's a cracking motor.
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Use a Dremmel tool and make two cuts 180 degrees from eachother up the length of the factory crimp, then just simply spread the shell apart and remove the rubber hose and then slide the shell off of the nipple. It is best to use a rubber hose that is made to hold up to ATF, fuel line will fail and start to sweat and swell over time.
#6
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Use a Dremmel tool and make two cuts 180 degrees from eachother up the length of the factory crimp, then just simply spread the shell apart and remove the rubber hose and then slide the shell off of the nipple. It is best to use a rubber hose that is made to hold up to ATF, fuel line will fail and start to sweat and swell over time.
Cheers for that, it's now done.
All to do now is get a new rad or fix the old one.
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