Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
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Oh, that E-Torx bolt on top of the bellhousing! It WILL! NOT! MOVE!

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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 07:56 AM
  #16  
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Well, I got the other bolts back in, but it would not budge a bit. I ground it off. It was a good chance to use my new USB camera to monitor my progress. Prop the phone nearby, and grind a bit, then poke the camera down then, then grind a bit... repeat as needed. It worked great.



In process.

Done.
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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 08:09 AM
  #17  
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This is where it now refuses to twist or drill out.
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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 05:10 PM
  #18  
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Heh. I have a cure for that. First of all, I can get to it easily now. Lots of room to work, apply cheater bars, etc. A torch can be applied. Secondly, I have a tool that has already proven itself on the notoriously difficult timing chain cover on a Ford 351.


KD Stud remover. It works.


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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 05:45 PM
  #19  
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It'll break your tool as a final .
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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 06:21 PM
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You don't need to do anything...when you slide the engine towards the front the bolt will slide out of the bellhousing once the engine is free you will have 2 inches of shaft to put a pipe wrench on it. I had to cut both of mine...when the engine was free I was able to unthread with my fingers. Its a standard 3/8 coarse thread bolt. You will be able to match up the length when you get the old one out...my cutting job was not as clean and pretty like yours...good job
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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 06:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by boxburn
It'll break your tool as a final .
Oh, you've worked on Jeeps, have you?
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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 06:27 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bluejeep2001
You don't need to do anything...when you slide the engine towards the front the bolt will slide out of the bellhousing once the engine is free you will have 2 inches of shaft to put a pipe wrench on it.
I have used a pipe wrench in the past, but trust me on this - that KD stud remover is a far better tool for that job!


Originally Posted by bluejeep2001
I had to cut both of mine...when the engine was free I was able to unthread with my fingers.
Heh. Not this one.

Originally Posted by bluejeep2001
.my cutting job was not as clean and pretty like yours...good job
I just used my 1/4" air powered die grinder with a fairly small stone. I think I was able to do a clean job because I could stop every minute or so and check my progress using the USB camera. That thing is nice!

$20 on Amazon. Well worth it!


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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 09:37 PM
  #23  
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3-feet of socket extensions will make the impact wrench a bit less effective. Long thin extensions are the equivalent of the torque sticks used to (over) torque lug nuts.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 11:29 AM
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So with the engine out and the stud ends free and clear...they will still not come out of the block? Like I said...mine came out with my fingers ...after I managed to torque the heads into a nice round ball.. Try soaking in kroil or pb blaster now that you have good access to the threads. Obviously you don't want to damage that part of the block if you are going to reuse...Whats going to go back in?
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 11:48 AM
  #25  
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I've discovered that if you have a stud or broken bolt similar to what you have, a good sharp rap on the end of it with a hammer will sometimes loosen up the threads, especially if the threads have been stretched.
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