Oh, that E-Torx bolt on top of the bellhousing! It WILL! NOT! MOVE!
Thread Starter
CF Veteran




Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
Likes: 964
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Trying to get my 97 engine out to put into my 98, and one of the E-Torx bolts at the top of the bell housing just will not budge! Its brother fought a bit, but then broke loose. This guy has laughed at my 1/2" impact. No, not some cheap Harbor Freight impact. This is an AirCat. It's got some serious power.
I'm looking for suggestions before I decide to grind it off. Any ideas? I have some room to work as it's partially dropped. Long story, but I need to get them separated to get the engine out, because it's got to come almost straight up.
I'm looking for suggestions before I decide to grind it off. Any ideas? I have some room to work as it's partially dropped. Long story, but I need to get them separated to get the engine out, because it's got to come almost straight up.
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 560
Likes: 25
From: West Covina, Ca.
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Note from DJ
Support the engine first. If the E-Torx Bolt is the last to be removed replace and snug up one on each side at the bottom. The give another shot at the E-Torx bolt; if it was the last one out; you have greatly increased the torque on its threads. Hope this helps.
Support the engine first. If the E-Torx Bolt is the last to be removed replace and snug up one on each side at the bottom. The give another shot at the E-Torx bolt; if it was the last one out; you have greatly increased the torque on its threads. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran




Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
Likes: 964
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yeah, thought of that. I'm going to put the 3 and 9 o'clock bolts back in and maybe the other E-Torx bolt ((with some anti-seize on it) and see if that helps. I'll post back.
Note from DJ
Support the engine first. If the E-Torx Bolt is the last to be removed replace and snug up one on each side at the bottom. The give another shot at the E-Torx bolt; if it was the last one out; you have greatly increased the torque on its threads. Hope this helps.
Support the engine first. If the E-Torx Bolt is the last to be removed replace and snug up one on each side at the bottom. The give another shot at the E-Torx bolt; if it was the last one out; you have greatly increased the torque on its threads. Hope this helps.
heat cant hurt, and some back & forth with the impact...my Milwauke 1/2" rattled them out
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Joined: Jan 2017
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From: Connecticut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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From: Northern CT
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Turbo 4.0
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Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
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From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
I had to cut one of those myself (dealer mechanic torqued it tight when replacing the clutch) and it was not at all fun. It was on my old TJ, but having done clutches on both XJ and TJ, it's really not different.
Lower bolts tight and heat is what I'd do. There's no good reason to waste your time and extend your aggravation by putting the other top bolt in, the 3 and 9 are more than sufficient. A dremel with a metal cutting wheel might make cutting it off an efficient option. It's not too hard to find a replacement at the hardware store and you sure as heck aren't putting a buggered up bolt back on either way. Once the tranny is off, you'll have a good deal of threaded length left over and can get the penetrating oil on it really good.
In my experience, cutting was the hard part, getting the rest off the bolt out after separating the engine and tranny was absolute cake.
Lower bolts tight and heat is what I'd do. There's no good reason to waste your time and extend your aggravation by putting the other top bolt in, the 3 and 9 are more than sufficient. A dremel with a metal cutting wheel might make cutting it off an efficient option. It's not too hard to find a replacement at the hardware store and you sure as heck aren't putting a buggered up bolt back on either way. Once the tranny is off, you'll have a good deal of threaded length left over and can get the penetrating oil on it really good.
In my experience, cutting was the hard part, getting the rest off the bolt out after separating the engine and tranny was absolute cake.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 30
From: Detroit, Michigan
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I agree with also tightening the bolt, then loosening, then tightening, then loosening. Spraying with a penetrating oil between rounds. I bought a small ratcheting box wrench from Amazon for the job, and a longer version as well for breaking it free.i lowered the engine and went at it from the top.



