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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 12:07 PM
  #16  
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From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
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This is my setup.....10X better than stock.

Wiring Hardness
IPF housing
• Hella 9003/H4 60/55w Bulbs
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 12:17 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jakbob
This is the only time i have heard about that. Considering i build headlight harnesses not just*for wagoneers, but cherokees as well, i have never run into that issue.

Sounds like your harness is messed up somewhere.
It may be the only time you heard about it but if you check the forum you'll find a number of discussions surrounding the particular issue. I searched the forum only after a thorough analysis of my original equipment (with reference to the FSM) followed by ringing-out the eAutoworks harness. All is as it should be by design.

With the eAutoworks harness installed, all fog and/or headlamp functions are normal except when you use the high beams (with at-least the marker lights switched on) - they (the high beams) will remain switched on until you turn off your lamps completely. If no lamps are on and you flash your high beams then they will turn off when you release the stick.

That's how I found the stray voltage described previously. Go ahead and review the FSM schematics and I think you'll see how/why it happens. Pay particular attention to the fog lamp relay coil and fog lamp switch constructs/connections.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #18  
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BotakBeng, You and I have the same setup (Hella 9003/H4 lamps and High Intensity harness). Test the system as described (assuming you have the factory fog lamp setup).

NOTE: Driving lights or headlights must first be on and your factory fog lamp system need not be on but they do need to be fully functional. Flash or switch-on your high beams then verify that the high beams will switch off.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 12:45 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee
BotakBeng, You and I have the same setup (Hella 9003/H4 lamps and High Intensity harness). Test the system as described (assuming you have the factory fog lamp setup).

NOTE: Driving lights or headlights must first be on and your factory fog lamp system need not be on but they do need to be fully functional. Flash or switch-on your high beams then verify that the high beams will switch off.
Not quite understand you but i don't have factory fog light.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 12:54 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BotakBeng
Not quite understand you but i don't have factory fog light.
If you do not have factory fog lights then (I think) you can not have the high beam problem that I described.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 01:05 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee
A terrific lamp brightness upgrade with one downside: High Beam Latch Up occurs with this harness (I believe it's due to the factory fog lamp connection scheme). There's a stray 5V-7V present at the terminal all the time which allows the high beam relay to energize but prevents the high beam relay from de-energizing when the high beam are turned off. Lights need to be turned off in-order to de-energize the high beam relay. It's an inconvenience but a livable one...
There is a relay that grounds through the high-beam, it operates and supplies power to the fog light switch only if the high beams are off. (if the high beams are ON, there is +12V at that point instead of ground and the fog light relay cannot operate)
It could possibly supply enough current to "hold" the new high-beam load relay on depending on the characteristics of the relays you use.

You can probably solve that issue by removing the high-beam sense wire (that grounds the fog light relay) and grounding it to the chassis.
Your fogs will also work with high and low beams with that change.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 01:11 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jakbob
This is the only time i have heard about that. Considering i build headlight harnesses not just*for wagoneers, but cherokees as well, i have never run into that issue.

Sounds like your harness is messed up somewhere.
On later models with fog lights, you have to make a mod to the factory harness to use the upgraded headlight harness.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 01:24 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Radi
There is a relay that grounds through the high-beam, it operates and supplies power to the fog light switch only if the high beams are off. (if the high beams are ON, there is +12V at that point instead of ground and the fog light relay cannot operate)
It could possibly supply enough current to "hold" the new high-beam load relay on depending on the characteristics of the relays you use.

You can probably solve that issue by removing the high-beam sense wire (that grounds the fog light relay) and grounding it to the chassis.
Your fogs will also work with high and low beams with that change.
I understand what you're saying and you're right. If I remove that high beam "sense" lead and ground that fog lamp relay coil then high beams will switch on/off as expected and fog lamps will work too. The problem will then be that the factory fog lamps will not switch off when the high beams are activated - as the design intended. I guess that losing the "fogs-off-when-highbeams-on" function is a small sacrifice I could live with.

If I added a diode to the circuit then I may be able to retain the "fogs-off-when-highbeams-on" function. Definitely worth an experiment but will need to current limit the diode circuit from the high beam terminal to the newly grounded relay terminal.

Does anyone out there see any pitfalls in this fog lamp control circuit modification?

Last edited by Cherryokee; Jul 30, 2012 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 01:42 PM
  #24  
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You could just add another relay between the high beam +12V and ground, so it operates when the highs are on...then loop the fog lamps through the normally closed contacts too.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 01:46 PM
  #25  
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Self-check and self-dope-smack...

A sketch really helps when trying to figure out the electrical connections.

I will not ground the fog lamp relay, even though it would work, but if I add a diode to the "sense" lead between high beam terminal and fog lamp relay, such that the diode would be reverse-biased when the high beams are switched on, then the problem will be solved. My beams will turn on/off and the fogs will cycle off/on accordingly - in theory.

Quickly now, back to the to the bat cave Alfred...
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 08:14 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Here's the parts:

http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx


Here's how to do it. Radi is 100% correct. Do the harness first. The added bonus is that the high electrical load is removed from your headlight switch so it won't melt down on you some dark night.

Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
 
 
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.


So that Putco harness # is the one I need to order for my '96 XJ? I'll be running std lights for a bit but will upgrade to Silverstars.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 08:20 AM
  #27  
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Engine: 4.0L 242ci I6
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Just a little extra link on headlamp casings for an upgrade: http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/s...e-lighting.htm

The conversion is a few scrolls down the page.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 03:01 PM
  #28  
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http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx

Went ahead and ordered it.
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