short of it.. swapped axles, brakes wont bleed.


last week i swapped axles for more gearing. same dana 30 and c8.25 that i had before, just w 4.10s.

i have aftermarket rear disks.. we switched it all over, one side at a time as not to mix it up.

got it all buttoned up. bled the brakes.. pedal goes to the floor. since then ive installed speed bleeders so i could do this myself (cant always have a friend around) and have tried no less than 3 times since then to bleed the brakes to no avail.

MC never drained all the way, kept it topped off. did brakes in correct order furthest to closest.

any ideas.. thanks

 

Gravity bleed them and see if that fixes it.

 

gravity bleeding now.. will report back w results... how long should i let em drip?

also. forgot to mention. i didnt touch the fronts when we did the axles.. just took caliper off rotor. and put on new one.. never touched the lines, bleeders or anything. so they should be good. if gravity doesnt work. ill crack them to see if they need bled or anything.

another thing. in many thread its says something about the calipers being switched and the bleeders being on bottom, which will prevent it from bleeding... well my rear disk calipers only go on one way.. and the bleeders are on bottom? any ideas? would that stop it from bleeding and if so.. should i try cracking the line to the caliper to let it drip?

 

When you swapped in the rear disc brakes, did you mess with the proportioning valve? Some have said to replace the valve, some have said to just replace the innards and some have said to not bother. You might just use a can of brake cleaner, take the valve apart, clean it up real good and put it back together.
I have had to clean up a valve before to get it to work right. I tried to bleed brakes five times and after I cleaned the valve, on the 6th time, it bled like normal.

 

Never done that before. In sure I can find a write up somewhere online but is it hard? I'm one of those learn as you go mechanics. Can do a lot. But never messed w brakes past bleeding and this disk swap.

 

Unhook all the brake lines and take it out of the vehicle. Usually there'll be two parts on the valve that can be unscrewed. Be careful as there will be spring pressure from the inside. I just take it apart, inspect any rubber parts and spray it all out good with brake cleaner. Then, put it all back together like you found it and reinstall. Then, try bleeding the brakes again. It might or might not help but it did help me last time I did this. It would be easier just to replace it with a new valve but it will be more expensive.

 

figured it out.. took the caliper off the rotor.. hung it so the bleeder was above the inlet and bled em that way.. boom fixed.. thanks for the advice on the prop valve though.

 

Sounds like You have the calipers on the wrong sides.

 

x2 calipers are reversed. When installed the bleeders should always be above the hose. Good idea to bleed all four corners too

 

Calipers were on the only way try would go on.. We looked at switching sides and it was physically impossible w the way the mounts were attached. Who cares now though. Ditched the 8.35 for a ford 9. Much happier.

 

It's certainly possible to have the fronts reversed, the rears must be different then.

 

Yea the guy I bought the jeep from told me he did the disk conversion. So no telling what parts he used to get it to work.. The pads were from like a 73 Chevy van.

 

Let's see some pictures of this rear disc brake setup.

 

No can do.. Read 2 posts up. Sold the 8.25 got a ford 9