Alright, short summary. Got engine light, checked code got the code P0138. Bank 1 sensor # 2 which I believe is the one behind the cat providing my research was correct.

Today I tried to remove the sensor. I went out and bought the correct socket for it. Sprayed WD-40 on it. Let the engine run for about 10 minutes so it would heat up. It won't budge. Got a cheaters bar put it on the socket wrench...still won't budge. Its starting to strip bad and I do not want to force it anymore or I probably won't be able to get it off.

Open to any suggestions because I just cannot get this thing loose.
Thought of maybe getting a can of PB Blaster but haven't made the final decision thought I would get some suggestions first.

Thanks

 

Mine required a map torch (or propane would have probably worked) to heat up the exhaust pipe and a breaker bar with a pipe over the handle to break it free. Overall not as bad as I had anticipated.

 

Every O2 sensor I have ever replaced on any car I have ever owned required the exhaust pipe to be hot to get it to budge. Just drive the Jeep and heat up the system real good. When i did that on my XJ last time I replaced the O2 sensor, it turned easily and it was an easy swap out.

 

As well as lots of heat you might have better luck with liquid wrench or pb blaster. WD isn't the best lube..

 

x2 Mapp torch

 

Wow I must have been tired when I typed this. I meant "exhaust manifold".

 

'95 Sport (one O2 before the cat).

I heated with propane until the bung was red hot, and did it several times. Sprayed with PB Blaster.

Wound up putting in up on jack stands to get enough clearance for the 'cheater pipe' I use over a ratchet.

Then I cracked the exhaust pipe (on the manifold where the final two pipes join into one before it attaches to the downpipe) by twisting too much.

Had to replace the Manifold also....

So, the moral of the story is....heat it like a (profanity), and BRACE the pipe with your foot or something against the way you are pulling so you don't have the same problem I did....

 

i'm with the masses on this one. extensive heat and removal should be easy. get a better lube WD40 is the Army's oops (one of many, im a squid)

and if it the O2 sensor after the CAT then leave it out. no need to replace it. it only verifies the CAT is doing it's job... and lets you know your good to go, before you go to the sniffers.

 

Alright...i decided to just take it back and get 80 bucks back. I did get a can of PB Blaster while I was out though
Thanks for the suggestions though. I guess after all I heard, those things are a bugger to get out.

 

what brand of code reader did you use. I used the one at Napa and it said misfire #6 cylinder then said heater o2 sensor but never helped me identify which one it was. the guy at napa said I would have to bring it to a shop to better identify which one?
there was no "P" code for it though. the only "p " codes were the misfire and evap.

 

Don't strip it! Buy a six point if you already slipped!

 

I borrowed I think it was an ACTRON from my grandpa. And the code lookup on the reader said something like Bank 1 Sensor 2 Downstream O2 Sensor shortage to voltage