Nothing says JEEP like unknown sounds!
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
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From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
So recently I had a local shop put on turbine wheels and after a couple days I started to hear a clicking coming from the back when I would go in reverse and being a Jeep guy I didn't think much about it. Well since then I can now faintly hear it with my windows down and no music around 15-30mph while coasting iirc. I have taken out my front driveshaft and that proved to be pointless, checked all the u joints and they seem to be fine, the linkage isn't vibrating and I can't find anything from laying under my jeep that seems out of the ordinary. The clicking sounds like it's coming from either the transfer case to the brake drums and anywhere in between. My brakes were all replaced with rotors 5-6 years ago when we got it and i'm very easy on my brakes. I am lifted 3.5"s with 1.25" wheel spacers but it's been over a year since the lift and the pinion angles look perfectly fine to me. My jeep is an 88' with 235xxx miles on it mostly highway and light wheeling. I plan on jacking up the rear wheels and inspecting the drum brakes this week but would like to know what else to look for and if anyone has had this happen to them.
Last edited by unidentifiedbomb; Sep 9, 2013 at 10:32 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Look on the backside of the rear wheels and see if a wheel weight is rubbing on the parking brake lines going to the rear drums.
The wheel weight will be shiny or worn down some if it is.
The wheel weight will be shiny or worn down some if it is.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
My '87 does it with factory turbine wheels. It's (the '87) usually my daughter's DD. When she has people with her, it will do it over bumps. Took me a while to figure it out.
I tried plastic ties to pull the cable housings away from the wheels. They broke pretty quickly.
I eventually used bailing wire. That worked.
I tried plastic ties to pull the cable housings away from the wheels. They broke pretty quickly.
I eventually used bailing wire. That worked.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
Likes: 250
From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
I can't find any cables that would be rubbing on the weights, I did realize that I can make it squeak when in reverse so at some point this week I'll have my gf back it up while I look under.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I read your response and realized it could have more than one meaning.....
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Joined: Apr 2009
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
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Is your Jeep missing its parking brake cables? You don't see them going into the rear drums?
Based on your later posts, I would pull the rear drive shaft and have both U-joints replaced with quality components.
"Looking" at them doesn't prove a thing or rule anything out.
Based on your later posts, I would pull the rear drive shaft and have both U-joints replaced with quality components.
"Looking" at them doesn't prove a thing or rule anything out.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
Likes: 250
From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
I have both cables going to the drums but they are on the other side of the bolts so they don't even come close to the weights, maybe it's due to the spacers I have on there. I have tried jerking the drive shaft and moving the axle when I took one of my wheels off today and saw no play or delay in the rear drive shaft. I'm thinking it might be the drums but I can't get around to that with the little factory jack I have
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 711
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From: Benton, KY
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm gonna go with u-joints... Mine was doing practically the same thing and doing the "shake" test on them didn't show any signs of them being bad. It wasn't until I took the shaft out and had it laying completely flat and straight that I realized the rear joint was DONE.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
Likes: 250
From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
I'm gonna go with u-joints... Mine was doing practically the same thing and doing the "shake" test on them didn't show any signs of them being bad. It wasn't until I took the shaft out and had it laying completely flat and straight that I realized the rear joint was DONE.
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 155
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From: Torrington CT
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
Likes: 250
From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Someone needs to get their minds out of the factory rear bumper lol if you've ever washed it out after a good mud run you know how nasty that place can get


