projectcustoms

So this started with my girl driving with the e brake on after that the power to the starter shorted out on the frame fixed that started up just fine and went to drive off and it made it about ten feet and shut off now I don't have any power any help would be appreciated thanks

arorton

check all grounds, then check to see if the primary charging wire from the alternator is still connected. my post on my alternator managed to melt itself off once somehow..

projectcustoms

Checked that still don't have power

DFlintstone

Howdy project. Well, the pos wire from the Alt to the starter relay there near the battery shouldn't be grounding, also the web of fused links off it there should not be meiltin. Do you have a meter, (and a fire extinguisher?)

Resistance in a bad connection can get nutty hot. Might be your Alt terminal issue. At least once I heard and smelt my (finger burning), before I felt it. If your terminal on tha alt gets hot, you might want to go the distance, and make sure you have shiny metal to metal. If it was loose or bad, it's likely ugly and burnt.

Starting out knowing the terminals are not an issue is good. People do post that they are good, when they are not;

Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so it you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!

projectcustoms

All my connections are good that whas the fist thing I checked and how I found my main power wire to my starter whas grounding out on the frame

arorton

I never suggested that. I just told him to check both. I never implied or suggested that the wire was a ground.

cmartin2112

Do you have a meter? If so you need to check these connections with it...

DFlintstone

This might be over my head from here. With a DVM, on the 200 ohm resistance scale. Looking for less then an ohm.
Center of alt terminal to the battery positive post it's self. The actual battery neg post to the alternator body, a solid part of the block, and to the chassey. Chaessy to block. Also in my signature you will find Cruiesrs sensor ground test. He has loads more experience than me, but I couldn't help notice that the third, drivers side terminal right up there on the MAP sensor is pretty easy to reach, and part if the ground web that is so crucial, connecting to everything grounding there on the dipstick mount stud.

I know it sucks, but cleaning things and seeing less than an ohm will pay off in the long run.

Yes arton! I don't mean to disagree. just headen at the target..

1/2 dozen have admitted they hadn't really cleaned their terminals. Twice that, just vanished after it was drummed in.

"All my connections are good" And you have 12.7 volts more or less at the battery, and nothing works?

projectcustoms

OK so I tested al the spots you said I'm reading good but now I'm getting a drain on the battery loosing one point of a volt every three seconds or so and still nothing when I turn the key

DFlintstone

OK. The number after the "point" is tenths, (of a volt)(the second place is hundreds) 12.71, or 12.68, would be normal numbers to see while it's just sitting. Running, 14, plus or minus is more like it.

So a good battery is resting charged at 12.7. (ignore it if it reads higher from the charge. Just a trick. 2.2-volts/per a cell, 6 cells.) That's lead/acid, that doesn't change. (OK, maybe 2.23, and that's room temp)

If it starts dropping that fast when you hook it up, something is on. One trick to isolate the drain, (besides listening when it's quiet, and checking for light), is to remove fuses to see if one stops the drain.

Be really, supper careful making any tiny spark around a battery that has just been, or is charging. It's one of those fast, hard explosions, with acid.

If you have 12 volts, and your other stuff works, but no click, no start, try:

If you hold the key over, and jiggle the shifter in park or neutral and it starts, it's your NSS. http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/

projectcustoms

So finally got some time to go out and dig into the jeep some how the starter relay two other relays and the battery lost two cells don't know how it fried all that but got it fixed