Is this normal
Someone earlier mentioned a 'live' oil pressure guage and he is right! The oil pressure on XJ.s gives a more accurate reading that represnts close to your immediate oil pressue pressure as possible. The oil pressure guage on my ford pretty much goes to half-way position on guage and doesn't really move after that. The guage in my XJ moves a lot comparitively depending on oil temp and other things. I learned long ago to just make sure it stays about 40 psi or so, and just ignore it otherwise. It's nothing to see 20 psi difference, up or down, especially when starting from cold and warming the engine up.
Ok so I went out to wal-mart today and picked up a purolator L30001 and rotulla t5 10-30 and changed the oil today. Let's see how this works out.
Last edited by BigDaveA82; Mar 15, 2014 at 03:14 PM.
Ok so iv been driving all day today and I have to say my xj seems to be running a lot better with the new t5 oil and the new filter. Ticking is no where near as bad as it was. I'm also starting to think I do in fact have a leaking exhaust manifold. Under frether examination I found a spot on the Y that looked like it had some black soot on it I cleaned it up and will check it again in a few days to see if it comes back. Thanks for all the advice everyone.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 918
Likes: 6
From: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Ok so iv been driving all day today and I have to say my xj seems to be running a lot better with the new t5 oil and the new filter. Ticking is no where near as bad as it was. I'm also starting to think I do in fact have a leaking exhaust manifold. Under frether examination I found a spot on the Y that looked like it had some black soot on it I cleaned it up and will check it again in a few days to see if it comes back. Thanks for all the advice everyone.
Here's comparison between Fram and Purolator Classic (not the greatest narration but it gets the point across):
Summary: the Fram cardboard end-caps, thin/cheap anti-drain-back valve that seals poorly, plastic bypass valve, little filter media, uneven pleats. Overall a cheap piece of crap that costs as much or more than decent filters (Purolator Classic, Motorcraft, Napa Silver, etc.).
VS. the Purolator: Metal end-caps and bypass valve, much better anti-drain-back valve, more filter media, much more even pleats, etc. Generally a much better filter at roughly the same price point.
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