I've had a wicked wicked oil leak in my '92 Cherokee Limited Ed since July. I've just been topping 'er off rather than getting it fixed, because frankly I didn't have the time or money to invest. But now I'm ready to start fixing my girl up as best I can...

Found where the leak is coming from, and was told the leak isn't worth fixing due to the age of my Rustie. I'm not satisfied with that, seeing as how the only problem(s) I have/have had, were either simple fixes, or cosmetic issues. Personally, I think rust shows character

But...... apparently the leak is coming from the rear seal on my engine. I've been told by random non mechanically inclined people that fixing that would require my engine being hauled out. Pretty pricey for an 18 year old gal.

Is this true? Or is this something that has a simpler, less costly fix?
I'm hoping for the latter...





OH.. ALSO: Lately my E-Brake light has decided to grace me with its presence, and I've never even used the darn thing. Halp?

 

Whats the issue with the Ebrake?

And you gotta at least drop the trans to do the rear main.

Not fun to do alone. It'd be nice to have a friend to help.

If you have $15-$20 you should run to an auto parts store and pick up a Haynes or Chilton. It'll have step by step instructions on how to do plenty of things. Anytime you've got questions on how something is done and you think non-mechanically inclined folk are giving you the run-around, check the guide and see what it says you gotta do.

 

No, it can be changed with the motor in the truck, but you'll have to jack it up pretty high to get the axle to drop far enough away to clear the pan coming out. It's a two piece rear main seal, that can be turned out and a new one turned in like a main bearing.

 

nope, don't gotta drop the trans, you just jack it up, drop the pan, pull that metal stabilizer across the mains, then the rear main cap. tap it through with an awl and a hammer, carefully so you don't scratch the crank. You will need some black RTV, and a torque wrench to put it back together right.

 

Rear seal is easier to do with the engine out, but it isn't the only way to do it. I'll be pulling the pan off my 90 when it warms up to fix the front oil pan gasket thats leaking on it. And yes, it's always worth it to fix it.... if it still runs good.
If you do have it pulled to fix it I suugest also doing ALL the freeze plugs too. At least where I am they tend to rot pretty bad.

E-brake cable could be rusted and the switch stuck. Or someone could have played with it like my friends 3 daughters do..... you be surprised what kids do when your back is turned...lol

 

The rear main can be fixed without removing the engine.
The brake light is not just to tell you the e-brake is on but also tells you that you may have a low brake reservoir. Check the brake fluid asap!

 

Don't need to drop trans....just take off the inspection cover to get to some oilpan bolts. Raise the motor high enough to get the pan out.

 

Learn summin new every day!

Thanks man!

 

lol, I skipped pulling the starter out, oops, and you'll need some grease to put on the sealing edge of the seal before you put it in.

 

Check the valve cover gastet first. They usually leak from the rear of the cover and then it appears to look like a rear main seal.

 

I just came back from a 3,600km round trip holiday, I checked all my fluids going, there, and since returning. I'm paranoid, so I always check my brake fluid. It's exactly where it should be. And since I'm topping up my oil once a week (ugh), I usually check everything else just as often.

I'll double check it before leaving work tonight though, just to be certain.



Is it bad that I have 8L's of oil, a litre of brake fluid, and 2 jugs of washer fluid in the back? I also have a funnel and an endless supply of oil rags. lol.

I have the MANLIEST vehicle for a 5'2" girl.

 

Just had my heater blower motor replaced, had the mech find the leak, and he told me that's where it was.

I live in Fort McMurray, Canada. Dunno if any of you know of the place, but it's basically Canada's "Little Texas". All oil, so we make great $$, and pay 3x the average cost for anything. On average, it's $195/hr for a mechanic...can't afford to get 2nd and third opinions, and I wouldn't even know where to begin looking at it myself.

 

it does suck alot, the easiest way is to pull the motor mount bolts so you can get the motor up high and turn the wheels so the linkage is all the way to one side,once you do that its pretty easy, i did it in 2 hours but i was in a heated shop and i had a lift and air tools the book time is 6 hours. and for your brake light i would check the fluid your wheel cylinders are probably leaking, if its not low unplug the e-brake switch and if its the switch the light should go off

 

........and not a jug or 2 of antifreeze/coolant.....now that's what I call living dangerously. LOL

 

They charge you just to take a look? Well.. I've seen techs makes mistakes.
Today I had a guy come in saying some shop told him his rear main was toast on his diesel pick up.
I looked at it. Changed a little O-ring on top of the engine and now his "rear main seal" is fixed lol

You now were the valve cover is? it's were you add your oil if you could get a light and look at the rear of that cover you might see if anythings coming out.