Looks like it was the NSS. Thanks a lot!

 

I am responding to the post that begins with "I made this just for you".
If you read my post, you will come to understand that I did every test or replaced every part that might have a bearing on this situation. I have a new battery but that isn't an issue because the solenoid won't even click. Usually, when the battery is not strong enough to crank the engine, the interior lights will dim and the solenoid will click. However, neither of these conditions exist. The primary wiring harness - which consists of the battery cables, the wiring to the starter, to the alternator and to the power distribution module - is new. The grounding cables are attached to the body with a clean, newly sandblasted bolt. The engine grounding strap has also been lightly sandblasted and has been bolted with cleaned bolts. I can assure you that the problem is NOT due to a grounding issue!
I have also performed tests of the neutral switch and have confirmed that the key switch is providing 12v+ to the starter relay. I have also confirmed that the wire going from the starter relay to the starter solenoid is good. The starter and the solenoid are brand new. So, with all due respect, the article you present does not provide any avenue to new revelations. Thanks anyway, John

 

You have swapped the relay with a known good one? And you get voltage to the starter trigger wire wen the ignition is turned to "start"? What happens if you (CAREFULLY) jump the starter solenoid directly to the battery?

 

x2^^^^

 

well folks, here lies a wet-brain ........

I have triple checked all per the original write up, all those functions are fine (relay, grounds, cleaning of flanges and ******-areas (er, I mean scratch-areas) , new battery, fully load tested, good to go. new starter, new relays (starter, auto shutdown, cooling fan, etc, Just so I know I have good relays!)....... and so I am now bald in one spot on my head where I been scratchin where I shouldna been scratchin......anyway..

Just CLICK. thats it.

CPS is good, but that does not come into play until the truck is actually cranking..

Here is a tidbit tho...... A ways back I had posted a mention with regard to the fusebox located in the engine compartment (left side atop wheelwell as one is facing the vehicle wondering why the f&%&%, won't you start)... and found that one of the "contact" wires for the stater relay had become corroded and was being pushed down out of the relay tray or "block" that it is supposed to be snapped into with its designed "tine" to keep it from slipping out when the relay blade is making contact with it.
so I re-checked that, as I had had problems more recently than now with it being the problem. I had re manipulated it (clean and re-seat into block area more scurely), it appears good, yet I will investigate further in a month or two as right now I am deployed (again) and wont be back to work it for a month or two. However, I am wondering, if you guys find some other info I don't know and what you have not covered here, by all means inform me!!! I am stumped I tell ya.



thanks,

cpnwrench

 

This write-up was spot on!
Our 99 wouldn't crank...sometimes a click, other times not. Lights and gauges all worked. Used your troubleshooting guide to determine it wasn't NSS. Checked battery cables and battery which were fine. Next checked braided ground strap that is pictured. Bingo! Our strap LOOKED intact, but as soon as I grabbed it, it began to crumble from corrosion. Trip to AutoZone, $5 bucks and 10 minutes later we were back in business. Only modification: Had to use the original end piece from the grounding strap and attach it to the new braided cable.... the end piece that came with the replacement strap was too small in diameter to fit over the bolt at the back of the valve cover.

So glad it was a simple fix, had to go for a little Christmas Day off-road ride!

 

Sweet!

 

Actually, on your '99 XJ (and other XJ's) that braided strap from the firewall to #14 head bolt is for radio interference suppression (see pic). The primary ground from the battery to the chassis is ground G100 (see pic). If G100 connection to the inner fender is corroded the braided strap on the firewall is the only path from the battery negative post to the chassis. You should disassemble the G100 ground and remove the rust on the fender and clean the wire ring terminal, then reassemble securely.