His SKIS may have been causing the no start problem all along because of a defective SKIM. The new PCM may have just shown what the problem may be. The old PCM may just mask a bad SKIM problem. With the new PCM at least he's getting a steady immobilizer light on after bulb check which indicates a faulty SKIM, Sentry Key, or the system itself, not an attempt to start the vehicle with the wrong key.

As far as the CMP goes, the OP was chasing what a "Master Mechanic" told him what he found using his scanner (probably a DRBIII), i.e., a CMP signal problem.

 

After about a week of wait time, and yet another $400...
The car finally ran yesterday.

But it was not a strong running. I made sure #1 was at TDC once again
on compression of course
(oh how I love doing that a million times.)

Started it up and now got a huge list of codes.
I'm wondering if one of my PCM plugs isnt connecting properly,
I got them all connected right and made sure they all "snapped" into place.

Codes I am getting:
p0201 injector #1 fauly
p0202 injector #2 fault
p0203 injector #3 fault
p0204 injector #4 fault
p0205 injector #5 fault
p0206 injector #6 fault
p0353 Ignition coil C fault? (using OE ignition coils had to return the new ones for $)

Pending p1391 intermittent cam/crank communication? (100% sure both sensors are communicating as they should)

I cleared the codes and these are the ones that popped back up.

Great now I have a fuel issue.

Well thanks for all the information with SKIM, But the car starts and runs on the OE PCM that came on the car so I returned the old one. (was it a mistake?)

 

And add to that,
I also did a valve cover gasket.

And what really scared the hell out of me is I am having LOUD ticking in the head.

I'm scarred ****less to be honest.

My thoughts:
With cranking the car a good 20+ times with a broken oil pump drive, Could the head suffered any serious damage?

 

[QUOTE=x91evo;2392521]After about a week of wait time, and yet another $400...
The car finally ran yesterday.

But it was not a strong running. I made sure #1 was at TDC once again
on compression of course
(oh how I love doing that a million times.)

Started it up and now got a huge list of codes.
I'm wondering if one of my PCM plugs isnt connecting properly,
I got them all connected right and made sure they all "snapped" into place.

Codes I am getting:
p0201
p0202
p0203
p0204
p0205
p0206
p0353

Pending p1391

I cleared the codes and these are the ones that popped back up.

Great now I have a fuel issue.

Well thanks for all the information with SKIM, But the car starts and runs on the OE PCM that came on the car so I returned the old one. (was it a mistake?)[/QUOTE]

Yes.

As you've probaly figured out, all those P02XX codes are fuel injector drivers. PCM issue.

P0353 is IGNITION COIL # 3 PRIMARY CIRCUIT. Could be a PCM issue.

 

Well crap haha

With the other PCM, And it running for the 2 seconds it will run (damn SKIM),
Do you think I will I be able to determine if it is indeed the PCM?

Funny because last time I went to the yard (about an hour away)
I found the key from the PCM donor in the vehicle.

So I hope that its still there as the PCM programmed key would work for the time being, placed in the general area of the SKIM correct?

 

And what about the ticking? Do you think it is just really dry of oil?

I was originally going to say should I bleed the lifters, but then I realized its a pushrod motor haha

 

Well I figured out about the oil pressure.. the OPD wasnt seated all the way in (moron)

And the car will run now but has all
injector circuit fault codes
and the p0353

 

Well now the car will not turn over anymore,
After clearing the codes.
And cranking I got a P0340.

Synched the OPD YET AGAIN.
It wasnt out of synch. But to double check I did it ...AGAIN.

Cleared the codes now it wont turn over.
Now its showing 0 codes. What in the frick is going on.

Makes 0 sense how the motor can run and misfire for 5-10 minutes.
I turned it off and attempted to restart it (it was just running mind you) and it will not fire.
Just cranking as it was before. I cannot take this much longer. This car has put me into debt literally.

 

The key is programmed to the SKIM, not the PCM. The SKIM must be installed and hooked up to be programmed using a DRB III tool at the dealer.

 

Why did you put the original PCM back in. As previously discussed, that PCM may have been damaged by your 16.5 volts on the bus. I was hoping you would have kept that replacement PCM installed.

Did you solder that cam sensor wire at the PCM you cut back together properly?

As we were going to try with the new PCM, detach the SKIM connector and see if it starts.

 

So if I were to take the SKIM from the other jeep, with the PCM.
I could get it to work you think?
I am trying to save the 150+ for the dealer fees

Yes I know it was a stupid mistake, I was trying to scrape together whatever money I could and this probably wasnt a good idea to return it.
I am actually attempting to talk with the alternator maker in an effort for some help from their end.

Yes and it was reading 1 ohm in resistance after the solder.

As we were going to try with the new PCM, detach the SKIM connector and see if it starts.[/QUOTE]
Alright sounds good to me now I just need to ride to the 1hour away junkyard ahh.

 

Alright sounds good to me now I just need to ride to the 1hour away junkyard ahh.[/QUOTE]

SLOW DOWN. For now just disconnect the SKIM and see if it starts.

The SKIM can cause problems with the CCD Data Bus and, of course, prevent the engine from being started.

 

Alright that sounds even better for now ha.
I will try that and see how it turns out

 

With the SKIM disconnected there was no difference.

I never had any issue with the SKIM with the PCM that was with the car originally so I reconnected it. I noticed if the ring of the SKIM wasnt around the key fob it would flash the NO KEY logo on the upper left of the display.

So I know forsure its nothign to do with SKIM thank goodness lol

After about 2 mins of cranking its giving me P0340 again.
Im going to assume its a bad cam sensor from napa.

I hope I can find a ride to the dealer before it closes for the dealer part.

 

I noticed yesterday if I played with the cam sensor plug it would start sometimes very rarley, but majority of the time not.

So if its not the cam sensor I will draw my attention towards the cam sensor connector.

Seeing I was getting a intermittent code for communication between PCM and cam sensor/crank sensor (the p0353)