Cut the signal wire for the cam sensor at the PCM C1 #18.
It reads 5v at key on- with the old, and new (donor xj) PCM.

What the heck is going on?

 

The cam sensor only provides signal for the fuel injectors. What this means is if everything else is working okay then dumping a little fuel into the throttle body should get the engine to start. Verify that next.

Is it possible that when you changed out the oil pump drive that you somehow got the timing messed up? I'm not familiar with how the distributorless systems work, but I do know if the cam sensor is one tooth off it will not run right or at all sometimes. To install a cam sensor you would have to be sure that the cam gear marks are properly aligned and that both valves are closed on a compression stroke with the piston all the way to the top of the cylinder.

And if you have the sentry-key system, get that programed first. Some systems will not allow the engine to crank, some will allow it to crank and not start, and some will allow it to start and then shut off if the wrong key is used. I couldn't say for sure what would happen if you had a Sentry-key vehicle and installed a non-Sentry Key ECM.

 

Refer to the PCM C1 pin-out image and the Cam/Crank diagram above.

It's hard to follow what you are doing, why you are doing it, and therefore how to interpret your results.

Check the PCM C1 wiring to the Cam Sensor connector going from pin to pin in the connectors using an Ohmmeter. The results should be you see near full continuity (max .5 Ohms). Measure between PCM C1/pin socket 18 and Cam Sensor connector pin socket 1.

What do you mean by this:

"Cut the signal wire for the cam sensor at the PCM C1 #18.
It reads 5v at key on- with the old, and new (donor xj) PCM."

Did you actually cut the wire? Explain what you did. And how you are reading 5 volts. I'm confused!

 

I dont mean to doubt you, But I am 100% positive that if I am not getting cam signal I will not get spark.
A few months ago I was misfiring and sputtering and it ended up being the oil pump drive that gives the cam sensor signal from the little tab on the top of it. (which was broken loose)

Reguardless I should be getting some cam signal.
Even if the sensor was off, but I made sure about 10 times now that the sensor was in synch with the motor.

Also if the pcm didnt like the key, it should still start and run for a couple of seconds.
Fuel is fine, I am having a no spark issue

Sorry, I know I am posting alot at one time and I so tend to ramble sometimes lol.

But The master tech suggested that I was shorting to power.
From the Power wire to the Signal wire for the camshaft sensor circuit.

Well after taking apart the entire harness and tracing the wire it did not contact any other wire in the harness.
So I decided to cut the wire about 3 inches from the PCM connector
(I know how to solder pretty well)

And even that close to the PCM the Signal wire is putting out 5V!

I inspected the connector and it doesnt appear to be broken or cracked. What in the world would be making my PCM give out 5V where it should be reciving signal for the cam??

 

Look at the pin-out of the PCM C21 connector above. Note that pin socket 18 is right next to pin socket 17 which is a 5 volt suppy from the PCM. I suggest you disassemble C1 to the point where you can visually check these side-by-side wires and see if there is anything there that could cause shorting of 17 to 18. Verify that these pins in the PCM aren't bent. Additionally, use some CRC Electronics clean to squirt in the front and back of this area. Look closely for corrosion. It wouldn't be the first time shorts have occured in a PCM connector.

 

Its not the connector just took it apart and everythig is fine,
How else could 5V be coming out of #18?

 

Its also not the PCM, tried the two PCMs I have and they both show the same.

This is starting to look like a hopeless effort on my part

 

Can you confirm that 5V at signal shows something wrong?

I am also getting 5V at signal on my crank sensor

 

Just checked my '99. Here's the results:

Meter (-) probe to battery (-) post. Meter (+) probe to respective connector pin sockets.

Cam Sensor-

Key Off:

Pin 1 signal, .09 volts
Pin 2 ground. .00 volts
Pin 3 5 volt supply, .09 volts

Key RUN:

Pin 1 signal, 5.17 volts
Pin 2 ground, .00 volts
Pin 3 5 volt supply, 5.17 volts

Crank Sensor-

Key Off:

Pin 1 signal, .09 volts
Pin 2 ground. .00 volts
Pin 3 5 volt supply, .09 volts

Key RUN:

Pin 1 signal, 5.17 volts
Pin 2 ground, .00 volts
Pin 3 5 volt supply, 5.17 volts

TPS same results.

It would appear as though 5 volts at the signal pin is normal.

.09 volts with key off is expected. Your voltage may vary between .02 and .150 volts. This is the CCD Data Bus idle voltage.

 

Well thanks! I really appreciate that
Especially in the Michigan cold haha.

And good to know thats normal.
But bad to know for, why the heck I am not getting cam signal.

I am going to go to the scrap yard tomorrow and pick up another connector for the PCM for the heck of it see what happens.

 

Boy oh boy do I feel like a real moron..

It WAS INDEED the oilpump drive/ camshaft synchronizer!
The gear on the shaft somehow broke loose from the riviot as you can see in the picture it should not have any room to move. (notice the huge gap)

Which kind of scares the **** out of me because that means the motor was cranking numerous times with out ANY OIL PRESSURE!!

I had someone crank the motor while the Cam sensor was off and that little half circle piece did not move.

Thanks napa for once again failing me. Dont think I will be going anywhere but the dealer for parts that go internally in my motor.





And more than anything thanks to you CCKen! You are the only one that stayed with me on the problem and helped me the entire way.

Will get the dealer part on monday and report back just in case

 

Cool (I guess LOL). Good job staying with it.

Next step will be to find out what's causing the SKIS problem. Let me know when you are ready.

Here's the FSM procedures that you must follow when replacing that OPD, and CMP:

Make damn sure #1 is at TDC Compression and the damper index mark is aligned with the zero (0) on the timing chain cover.

 

I'm always suspicious of failures like that, and fuses blowing. What caused it.

Use a bright/strong flashlight and look in the OPD aperture in the engine block down at the drive gear on the camshsaft. Turn the engine through by hand at the crank damper and see if the gear is in good shape.

What oil are you using? Some off the wall heavy stuff like 40-50 weight?

 

"Next step will be to find out what's causing the SKIS problem. Let me know when you are ready."

AND..before starting your engine again you must address your alternator/charging system. You do not want to start your engine and have your charging system crank up to 16.5 volts again. You should turn down your voltage regulator to some setting that would be below 16.5 volts then adjust it up to 14 volts when it's runnng.

I still think you should una$$ that 14 volt battery and replace it with a 12 volt battery, then replace that dicked up battery temp sensor. You really didn't need a 14 volt battery, just a 12 volt alternator with an Amp rating that will keep up with your sound system demands. Refer to my previous discussion about this.

 

Take a close read at the service manual CCKen posted... see what that first paragraph says? Cam sensor syncs the fuel injectors- it does not control spark. That's what the Crank Sensor does.

So if you end up still not having spark, then maybe your crank sensor is faulty. If you have not used the link to the video I posted in your other thread about how to check the crank sensor then I suggest you do it.

You may want to switch back to your orginal PCM to eliminate a possible problem with the sentry key.