87Greenxj

So been looking on all the forums and videos but seems like no one has the same issues. My 87 4.0 was put together as a Frankenstein but the engine was hardly molested when I got her (air intake mods). It has 210k on her and she took on average 5-6 cranks to start every time and reved up to 2 grand without me touching the gas pedal still no idea why was working on that problem when this one started.

So I started her and it had been idling for about 15 minutes due to it being a cold fall in Alaska and drove it to the nearby gas station (10 miles) nothing abnormal. Got 500 feet from the pumps and it just completely died. No lights inside, no radio, nothing from gauge cluster, nothing. So I check the obvious suspects battery for voltage (12.6) and fuses, a few were burnt but had nothing to do with starting circuit or ignition.

Troubleshot it today and figured it would be the starter solenoid, of course after checking the starter which has 12v to it. Got a new solenoid since I had no power going to the ignition or the ground of the solenoid. My grounds are good. Just replaced the battery to engine a few weeks ago. Don't have a battery to chassis ground though. Anyways, the key tumbler springs back like normal but has been sticking in the ACC position and I have to push harder to break it free to start. When it did run it took between 5-6 cranks on average to turnover. I've been over the wiring diagram multiple times all day and the only common points seem to be the ignition switch and ecu. Voltage from the battery goes to the starter and to the solenoid then stops at solenoid that's why I replaced it. But would a bad solenoid stop any accessories in the cab to never come on? Oh also have a 52" light bar that still works straight off the battery so I know the battery isn't dead.

Working on it tomorrow again so was just hoping for anyone out there who has any good ideas of where to start. Going to clean up the connections to the solenoid better tomorrow but any ideas are welcomed.

Thanks

'90Cherokee

Lost all power to vehicle; battery cables.

Starter solenoid, fuses, and any other stuff would only kill it's circuit so the only thing I can figure is a battery cable connection at one end or the other.

87Greenxj

Just replaced the cables from 8 gauge to 0 gauge with new terminals. No grease or dirt on the battery posts. Correct me if I'm wrong but upgrading the cables wouldn't do any harm to the battery. I'll try putting a good battery in tomorrow and clean the terminals just in case.

'90Cherokee

0ga. is overkill, but bigger cables won't hurt.

The cables' connection at the battery is only half of it, the other ends need to be checked too. It's logical that it's probably not an issue at the battery terminals since the only thing working is the light bar connected straight to the battery terminals. There may be a fusible link between the battery connection and the vehicle power circuit; if so that's another thing to check. Since you just changed the cables I'd start there. When something happens right after a change the change is usually the cause.

87Greenxj

Alright so I put a new battery in it that I had laying around and same results. Checked the batt to engine ground and engine to chassis ground and they were good. I jumped the starter and it turned the engine fine but no start due to no spark or fuel pump. I looked at the ignition switch and when I turn the key tumbler the rod that goes into the ignition switch doesn't move. I'm no expert but doesn't need to push into the ignition switch to get the car started?