NO BUS problem need help
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 102
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have check and cleaned the grounds and also measured the voltage to the sensors with the following results:
Crank position sensor - 0.65v
Cam position sensor - 0.65v
Throttle position sensor - 0.65v
MAP sensor - 0.7v
The battery has a full charge.
Would you believe this leads to the PCM being bad?
Crank position sensor - 0.65v
Cam position sensor - 0.65v
Throttle position sensor - 0.65v
MAP sensor - 0.7v
The battery has a full charge.
Would you believe this leads to the PCM being bad?
But...If it were me I would try another digital Voltmeter before spending money on another PCM.
Not to be picky, but verify you were measuring the Orange wires pin cavities, with the key to RUN.
Which grounds did you clean?
Last edited by CCKen; Aug 24, 2014 at 07:36 PM.
Also a couple months leading up to this problem it was a little rough to start some days and it would run rough on the way to work, then run rich later that day, hold revs too long, and the battery was overcharging from the PCM (I had recently replaced the alternator and it was working fine)
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 102
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yes I doubled tested all the sensors and ensured I was testing the orange pin and yes the key was turned to run. I do not have a sentry key immobilizer system. The grounds that I cleaned were G101, G106, G102, and G100.
All is well here.
Also a couple months leading up to this problem it was a little rough to start some days and it would run rough on the way to work, then run rich later that day, hold revs too long, and the battery was overcharging from the PCM (I had recently replaced the alternator and it was working fine)
All is well here.
Also a couple months leading up to this problem it was a little rough to start some days and it would run rough on the way to work, then run rich later that day, hold revs too long, and the battery was overcharging from the PCM (I had recently replaced the alternator and it was working fine)
If you decide to replace your PCM make sure the replacement is the exact part number PCM as shown on the side of you existing PCM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 102
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you can disconnect C1 and look at the pins and cavities for corrosion. It's a long shot but some folks have found corrosion in their PCM connectors.
You may want to check the pins and pin cavities inside PCM connector C1, which is the Black connector. Pin 17/Orange wire.
If you can disconnect C1 and look at the pins and cavities for corrosion. It's a long shot but some folks have found corrosion in their PCM connectors.
If you can disconnect C1 and look at the pins and cavities for corrosion. It's a long shot but some folks have found corrosion in their PCM connectors.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 102
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I guess it's time for a replacement PCM. Make sure the replacement is the same part number you have now and that it didn't come from an XJ with SKIS.
Does anyone have a good wiring diagram? I have the dealer manual but it is spread out over many pages. I was watching a youtube video (
) and was hoping to find a diagram like this.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 102
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Does anyone have a good wiring diagram? I have the dealer manual but it is spread out over many pages. I was watching a youtube video (1996 Jeep No Start Case Study Part II - YouTube) and was hoping to find a diagram like this.
If you have the 2000 Factory Service Manual wiring diagrams you should have what you need.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 102
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I hve a much clearer pdf version but I can't upload pdf to my Photobucket nor can I post it here. The only thing I could do is attach it to, and email it, to your email addy. PM me if this is what you want.
Sounds like you're getting cold feet about replacing your PCM.
2001 XJ diagnostics manual.
I hve a much clearer pdf version but I can't upload pdf to my Photobucket nor can I post it here. The only thing I could do is attach it to, and email it, to your email addy. PM me if this is what you want.
Sounds like you're getting cold feet about replacing your PCM.
I hve a much clearer pdf version but I can't upload pdf to my Photobucket nor can I post it here. The only thing I could do is attach it to, and email it, to your email addy. PM me if this is what you want.
Sounds like you're getting cold feet about replacing your PCM.
I sent you a pm also.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 102
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you want, you can back probe pin 17 in PCM connecor C1 (black connector nearest to radiator).
Remove the connector back cover. There are four latches holding the cover on, two on top and two below. The bottom ones are a ******** to get at. You can use a vey small screwdrive to depress the locks.
Once you get the cover off look for the Orange wire (refer to the C1 pinout).
Back probe the wire. Insert the back probe pin all the way in next to the Orange wire (C1, pin 17) until it bottoms out in the connector.
Hook up your voltmeter, turn the key to RUN, and check for 5 +/- 0.5 volts. If you still get the same low voltage that you got at the sensors I would say the PCM is bad. If you do get the 5 volts then there may be a bad splice in that Orange wire 5 volt circuit.
Open this link and scroll down to post #53 for images of safety pin probes.
Safety pin #3 is the pin to use as a back probe (see image).
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/gre...e-6558/index4/
PCM Connector C1:
Remove the connector back cover. There are four latches holding the cover on, two on top and two below. The bottom ones are a ******** to get at. You can use a vey small screwdrive to depress the locks.
Once you get the cover off look for the Orange wire (refer to the C1 pinout).
Back probe the wire. Insert the back probe pin all the way in next to the Orange wire (C1, pin 17) until it bottoms out in the connector.
Hook up your voltmeter, turn the key to RUN, and check for 5 +/- 0.5 volts. If you still get the same low voltage that you got at the sensors I would say the PCM is bad. If you do get the 5 volts then there may be a bad splice in that Orange wire 5 volt circuit.
Open this link and scroll down to post #53 for images of safety pin probes.
Safety pin #3 is the pin to use as a back probe (see image).
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/gre...e-6558/index4/
PCM Connector C1:



