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New pro comp 3" lift for x-mas!!!! SCORE!!!!

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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 01:43 AM
  #16  
XJeepWerks's Avatar
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From: Allentown, Pa
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The fix everything tool..... 4 1/2" angle grinder

The remove everything tool... 4 1/2" angle Grinder


=) my angle grinder has gotten me out of many sticky situations
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 06:03 AM
  #17  
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you'll need tools, time, and a good friend to help you. you dont need a coil compressor i did mine just fine without one . make sure you start early in the morning. i started mine in the afternoon and i didnt end till like 4 in the morning or something. you can do with with just 2 jack stands and a jack, doing one end at a time. make sure you spray all the bolts you plan on remove for a good week to help loosen everything up. i personally thought the leafs was easyer then puting the leafs in. make sure you have extra tools then what the lift calls for because u nvr know what might brake or happen. also if you have another car to drive then that helps to because you can take brakes from working and come back to it later
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 06:42 AM
  #18  
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Coils came right out, no compressor. Just keep an eye on the front brake hoses when lowering the front end. I unbolted the calipers and tied them up so i didn't have to open the lines.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 09:14 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by azxj99
You will need coil compressors
Eh, We have installed in upwards of 40 lifts in our shop, we have never used a coil spring compressor. Last shop I worked at I watched a co-workers jaw get taken off cause the spring compressor didnt do its job very well.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 10:10 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Diesel
Eh, We have installed in upwards of 40 lifts in our shop, we have never used a coil spring compressor. Last shop I worked at I watched a co-workers jaw get taken off cause the spring compressor didnt do its job very well.
yea i dont really feel safe using a coil compressor, just disconnect a few things allowing the axle to drop makes it just as easy to slide the coils in.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Diesel
Eh, We have installed in upwards of 40 lifts in our shop, we have never used a coil spring compressor. Last shop I worked at I watched a co-workers jaw get taken off cause the spring compressor didnt do its job very well.

I agree completely. I tried using one once and it was like a ticking time bomb, took 3 or 4 trys before it held long enough to install the coil without slipping.

I just did my 4.5" coils on the jeep 2 week ago without a compressor. All you need to do is push and pull a few diff angles with the sway bar, shocks, and control arms removed.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 11:18 AM
  #22  
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i didn't read through the responses but i have this lift on my jeep , the AAL sucks, mine didn't last a month before it looked like the rear was weighed down with bricks, bought rough country leafs. the coils that the 3 inch come with don't hold up too long, after a year, i was only netting 2 inches of lift maybe because they compressed so much, i've got spacers and shackles to make up for the loss in lift, PRO COMP SUCKS in my opinion, they may have gotten better but i think from them you get what you pay for. you may have better results though, I hope i didn't spoil your excitedness for the new lift.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 11:36 AM
  #23  
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If used correctly a coil compressor is your friend. Just be careful. But when uninstalling the stock shocks take it slow because 90 percent of the time the upper bolts snap. If you can replace the stock hardware with grade 8 hardware do it. You will be glad in the future that you did it.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 11:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Metlic53
i didn't read through the responses but i have this lift on my jeep , the AAL sucks, mine didn't last a month before it looked like the rear was weighed down with bricks, bought rough country leafs. the coils that the 3 inch come with don't hold up too long, after a year, i was only netting 2 inches of lift maybe because they compressed so much, i've got spacers and shackles to make up for the loss in lift, PRO COMP SUCKS in my opinion, they may have gotten better but i think from them you get what you pay for. you may have better results though, I hope i didn't spoil your excitedness for the new lift.
im sorry you had a bad experience with pro comp, i hope i dont have the same experience....i have seen many pro comp lifts, and know a couple people that have them, and of what i know they all like them and they look good, it may be possible that you got one made on a monday or friday lol jk or possible the couple people i know got lucky and got a good one, either way....i hope mine works out ok, so since i have no experience with a spring compressor, i think i will take more time, and since i have to remove the shocks and other componants, try my luck doing it without one. either way, i have a friend that has one i found out he would let me use if i need it, but i will try without it first and see how it goes. ill power wash my undercarriage real good and start spraying them in advance, and go to my parts shop and get the OEM bolts replaced with better quality hardware after i get them out and know what bolts exactly need to be replaced. i have 4 jack stands and multiple floor jacks, so basically my last question is this; is it better to do just the front and then just the back (or vice versa) or is it better to get the whole vehicle in the air and do it that way? to me that seems like it could be kinda scary....but then again i have never done it before. what are your suggestions? and thank you guys very much for all your information thus far
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:40 AM
  #25  
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yeah spring compressor is scary if you buy cheap ones. my advice is if you use a spring compressor buy the ones that is $80 or more with anex tread or whatever it's called. as you can see in my picture i used a cheap kind and it bent. it was scary to get it apart.but i bought new ones that were expensive and used it had no promblem whats so ever. don't forget to get yr wheels aligned at a tire store. i went to tir3e factory to have it aligned it cost me only $50.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 01:44 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by sheepdog
im sorry you had a bad experience with pro comp, i hope i dont have the same experience....i have seen many pro comp lifts, and know a couple people that have them, and of what i know they all like them and they look good, it may be possible that you got one made on a monday or friday lol jk or possible the couple people i know got lucky and got a good one, either way....i hope mine works out ok, so since i have no experience with a spring compressor, i think i will take more time, and since i have to remove the shocks and other componants, try my luck doing it without one. either way, i have a friend that has one i found out he would let me use if i need it, but i will try without it first and see how it goes. ill power wash my undercarriage real good and start spraying them in advance, and go to my parts shop and get the OEM bolts replaced with better quality hardware after i get them out and know what bolts exactly need to be replaced. i have 4 jack stands and multiple floor jacks, so basically my last question is this; is it better to do just the front and then just the back (or vice versa) or is it better to get the whole vehicle in the air and do it that way? to me that seems like it could be kinda scary....but then again i have never done it before. what are your suggestions? and thank you guys very much for all your information thus far
I would do one end at a time with only that end in the air. The only reason I say this is because you will probably have to apply some pretty good force to break some of those bolts loose and having the wheels on the ground is a lot more stable than having it on jack stands. I would do the front first for two reasons... A. It's a lot more involved and will probably take longer and B. If you lift the rear first you won't be able to get as high of an angle on the front end when you jack it up, which will just give you less room to work with. (With the rear lifted it angles the front down, when you jack it up it will level out the jeep rather than lifting the front end up higher than the rear.)

Honestly, it's just personal preference which end you do first.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 02:19 AM
  #27  
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Before you start, go out and buy some grade 8, 5/16 hardware (nuts, bolts, washers) and some locktite. When you snap the four upper shock bolts off in the rear just get a punch (pneumatic if you can) and bang the old nuts out. Then get a washer and one of the bolts that you already purchased and snake it through the leftover hole from the opening roughly 5 inches away. It's easy to get a wrench on it and then just use the nuts and more washers to attach the shocks. Knowing this made my second lift install about 3 hours faster and 40 dollars less expensive. Don't waste your time with the bolt removal kits.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #28  
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I dont know why everyone says they break their shock mount bolts. I did my lift a couple weeks back on my 94 cherokee and didnt have one bolt on there break, strip, or anything. I understand most people do have issues, but why with the shock mounts??
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 10:25 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Screwd up 6
I dont know why everyone says they break their shock mount bolts. I did my lift a couple weeks back on my 94 cherokee and didnt have one bolt on there break, strip, or anything. I understand most people do have issues, but why with the shock mounts??
You got lucky. People have issues with them because they snap because they apply too much pressure too quickly on the bolts and they just sheer off.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #30  
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I just used a ratchet and they came right off...same with installing them.

I know I did get lucky with the front leaf bolts...mine came right out, i have read a number of guys that cant get them out...not getting them back in was a dif story. Drivers side took about 1hr with lots of fenessing (sp) and the right side took 2 trys haha
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