Hi- new here on this forum.. I have a 98 cherokee- bone stock, as it was a corporate vehicle. Was driving fine to work this morning. After a 35 min trip on a highway, as soon as I got into the town I work in, the engine stopped while the Cherokee was still in motion.. Now- electric was still working- headlights were still on- but ultinately was unable to get it started and running. After about 30 min- when the tow truck arrived, I tried 1 more time, and it started fine.. Anyone have this issue, and the solution? Thank you all so much!

 

A likely place to start is the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and another good item to own is a Factory Service Manual. You can buy a PDF version from pacificcoastmanuals.com for your year and model for $7.95 very helpful for the XJ's. I have it downloaded to my phone, desktop, laptop, iPad as you have access for 24 hrs or so with the password.


BTW Welcome to the world of XJ's and this forum!!

 

Thank you so much! I own a Haynes manual- as I have trusted them in the past. Problem is- I'm 45 min from home..
As for CPS- it seemed as though when it was hot- just off of the highway- that's when it died, as after a cook down period it started back up.. Make sense??

 

I've read many posts on the internet, and I've read numerous views: from vapor lock to PCM issues, to overheating and causing relays in PCM to open.

 

Very common problem (CPS), when replacing use only OEM one as the others fail quickly.


I have the Haynes manual also it is very poor along side the FSM as far as info covered.

 

Hey thank you so much! I am just curious (because I'm trying to understand operation), how would temperature affect the CPS?? It did start after it cooled down for a while.

 

Check your rotor and distributor cap for wear and corrosion.

Use only distributor caps with copper terminals.

I found out that the hard way on my '97 Chevrolet C1500. Mine went deader than a doornail on the freeway one time. No stutter or advance warning at all.

The 1 1/2 year old O'Reilly aftermarket distributor cap, with aluminum terminals, had corroded to the point to where it wouldn't fire any more.

Got an OEM Delco to replace it. Fixed.

 

I had this keep happening to me for a while. Turned out to be a ****ty battery. Odd situation since most cars are able to run on alternator with even a bad battery.

 

Well it officially died... This time it coughed a little, let out a small backfire, and quit. My buddy and I removed air breather, sprayed in some ether, and it tried to fire. So with this my buddy said he feels its the fuel pump because it wants to fire with the ether. So I turned on the ignition (but didn't start it), checked the needle valve stem on the fuel rail, and it shot gas all over the place.. So no fuel pump issue... Vehicle was left 45 min from my house.. Any thoughts?

 

Fuel. Air. Ignition. Timing.

If an engine has these in the proper amounts, it will run.

You've got fuel and air. Timing is basically not adjustable. Let's assume it is OK for now.

Ignition is left.

 

Grab a CPS and several long extensions when you head over there next. I suspect you'll need them.

 

Anyone have any tutorials on how to replace the CPS?

 

Here you go:

http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/...picID=24211453

 

Hey thank you all! In addition to this- I've been reading about a bad solder joint in the computer, that presents same symptoms, and I've watched many videos on fixing this. Any thoughts?

 

Either take yours out and inspect it, or buy a remanned one.