OK so add a leafs are junk, shouldnt have wasted the loot but lesson learned. Just installed a brand new 3in Superlift kit front and back. So my question is, has anyone used a T-case drop on a 3in?

Didnt need one on the lame Rough Country aal but, these new spring packs lifted it up good. I've heard many stories claiming no drop is needed on a 3. Any opinions? Thanks

 

I have a TC drop on my 3" which is actually 3.5" in the rear. The only reason you should need it is if you are getting drive line vibes. I needed it but some dont. My .02

 

Get degree shims for the axle and you should be able to fit the "Vibration" problems with out a T-case drop...

 

Do you have any vibes? If so, use degree shims to correct your pinion angle. You shouldn't need a t-case drop with 3" on a 96. Most XJs vary, and I'll probably get flamed for this, but on a pre-97 with 3", a t-case drop is almost unheard of. My rear is sitting at 5" and I have no vibes.

 

I am opposed to T case drops as I feel they are 1) a band aid 2) they defeat the purpose of a lift, which is to gain ground clearance and 3) they mask the cause of the vibration which is caused by severe driveline angle and a decreased spline contact at the output of the T case. JMHO though and countless lift projects.

 

^^x2 what Blue said^^

I still question the necessity of any modification to your t-case, but should it come to that, you're much better off to get an SYE and new driveshaft. I know a guy that ran an 8" LA kit and 38" tires on his XJ with only a homemade t-case drop and he had no issues. But the t-case drop was an eyesore and a complete waste of ground clearance.

 

Try the shims first and see what that brings for you. Otherwise go for a SYE.

 

I hit the spring shop up for some shims yesterday and installed em. I had to use the biggest ones they had (1/2 in). Some what corrected the problem. I know this sounds dumb but, I put 300lbs worth of landscape bricks in the back and now have no vibes. Even with all that weight it is still about a half inch higher in the rear compared to the front. Looks good, I'll try and get a picture up.

I asked Superlift if maybe they made a mistake and gave me 4.5 springs and they told me I had the correct ones. Also, they mentioned to let the springs settle, maybe running around with 300 lbs of conrete in the back will expidite the process?

 

Ok lets throw some tech in here.

Did you measure the angles on your pinion, driveshaft and tail of t-case??

I'm gonna take a guess that you have a 231 t-case with slip yoke. What I can't remember is if the 1996 231 is the short or long tail shaft. I believe its the long which means you have a shorter driveshaft to deal with.

Many people immediately yell out SYE on any lift 3" and above but its not always needed. It really depends on your angles. Go to sears or some tool place and get a magnetic base angle finder.

Do some work and get some numbers up before throwing $500 at an SYE.

Also look up driveshaft geometry. www.4xshaft.com has a tech section explaining a few things about slip yoke shaft alignment.

Also the weight will help settle down the springs faster, but the fuel price will kill ya

As another option to sye, you could (if you know how to weld or know a good welder) have new spring perches put on at the proper pinion angle. Perches are $8 and a couple of sticks of rod...Pennies.

 

Ok now that makes sence, I really do need to get to basics and find the proper angles before I throw all kinds of money at a 1800 truck.

 

Also give it some more time for the rear to settle. Often the rear will start off higher then it is listed as and then come down to the correct height.

 

We have to be patient. Time will cure the dragster look. Place heavy stuff in the back of the Heep when parked overnight. That will hasten the settling.
Blue

 

yeah blue...and save the fuel bill too

 

Be patient, it can take awhile for them to break in.

 

Key word was "parked", Bouncy. He can unload before firing up the beast and getting bouncy again.