miglia-spyder

My cracked head is ready to come off. I finally have all my parts including a brand new head from Odessa.

I have one question... Can i take the head off without taking the intake and exhaust manifolds off? Making them much easier to remove and re-install.

Any tips from anybody that has done one?

nixon4s

Yo need to take the manifold off. Get all new gaskets too

nixon4s

Buy the haynes book. Thats what i used they have all bolt locations and everything

xjchase

Yes you can. I would recommend using a engine crane if you have one. The head is heavy by itself.

Cherockee

It's hard enough putting the head on and getting it and the gasket lined up without the manifolds on I can't imagine how hard it would be with them hanging off the side.

miglia-spyder

OK. I have all new gaskets... Including all the little ones. I have a haynes manual laying around here i think. Im usually the kind of guy that seperate bags all the bolts and stuff. So organizing shouldnt be an issue.

Thanks for the tips. Keep them coming if you got anything else.

413maxwedge

Got thread sealant for #11 (i think), new head bolts? how old is the t-stat and water pump.Don't use rtv to hold the gasket in place use indian glue or something like it just a couple dab's.Torqe wrench the right socket new plugs might as well do it all while it's apart.Might as well flush the cooling system out to.

miglia-spyder

OH YEAH! I forgot about the #11 bolt. Thanks!! I will be switching to my winter thermostat (new 195*) and the water pump is only a year old. I bought some Fel-pro Head bolts. Ill have to look for indian glue, never heard of it.

413maxwedge

You can use anything in a glue form to just tack the head gasket down(that is made for gasket's), the thing with rtv is it will spread out alot and could plug up the needed holes.

EnduroScout

Question for you guys - I just took off my cylinder head to replace the gaskets and now I'm putting it back on. Do the Pistons have to be in any particular place?

I thought I read that somewhere but now I can't seem to find it in any of my manuals.

miglia-spyder

No. The lifters will put the valves where they need to be.

DFlintstone

Hey there. Myself I wouldn't put anything on the head gasket. As far as manifolds, they're not THAT tough. A way long extension with a universal for that rear one, and with the air box off, most or the others are pretty easy.

"Flintstone's bolt tip" Cut a slice right in the front of an old quart oil jug. Stick bolts from that section, (ie. Manifold), through the slit. They won't fall out. When you are ready, put a little diesel or something in there and gently swish/shake it some, empty. Then cut a rectangle out of the side, (around the slit), and, Boda Boom! A tray of all the clean bolts!

OK, you will need new molybdenum bolts, but you get the idea. < (KIDDING!)

thunderwasp

Did mine alittle while ago. Here is some useful info. Mine was 2000 also.

The front driver side head bolt requires a thread sealant and it's torque is less??(maybe more?) than the others. If my memory serves me right the torque is 110 ft lbs for all the bolts except that front one which is 100lbs. Search online for sequence and correct troque.

You will need a 12pt. 1/2 deep socket for most of the head bolts. The back head bolt that the ground wire attaches to is tricky. The deep socket might not clear the lip on the fire wall depending on the ratchet/breaker bar you use. I ended up using a deep 3/8" drive socket on that one I think.

Count on the exhaust pipe to manifold bolts breaking. Also you will need about 20" of extensions to get to them.

You will need a special disconect tool to remove fuel line from rail. It cost about 5 dollars at auto zone.

I pulled the head, intake, and exhaust still bolted up. It weighs about 100lbs and make sure not to drag it over the block. Its easier to handle that weight if you stack some cinder blocks( or anything else stable) in front of the jeep and let the air out of front tires. also stack(lay) some towels laying over front clip so you don't screw up your paint if you need to set that heavy a$$ head down. It's awkward getting it out and in like that but can be done.

If you decide to remove intake/ exhaust manifold under the hood I think you can remove the whole airbox and use a long extension. This is just what I've read so I can't say for sure how much of a pain it would be.

valve cover 7/16" deep

Fuel rail, throttle body, etc 10mm deep

fan shroud 8 mm

fan bolts (pain in A$$) 1/2" wrench and a big screw driver to hold fan

exhaust intake manifold I think are 15mm but really can't remember. I used a 15mm for something though so have it.

coil 1/2''

Really not a hard job other than getting the right socket to fit that back head bolt. I bought about 3 sockets total trying to get it out and back in. Keep in mind that your torque wrench also has to fit in there. Label all your wires and I think you'll be fine

d50

whats the deal with the #11 bolt?

DFlintstone

One head bolt goes into the water jacket, (presumably). It's recommended to put sealant on the threads.