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New Control Arms Or Replace Bushings?

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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 05:57 PM
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Default New Control Arms Or Replace Bushings?

Hey guys. Been trying to get more work done on my Jeep and in the process, I noticed my control arm bushings are pretty worn out. One of the these days, I'd like to get some good ones, but that'll have to wait for a long while. In the meantime, do you think it'd be a better idea to get all new arms or just replace the bushings? And how hard would either job be to do?

Also, since it's sorta the same topic and has to do with the suspension....I think I may need either adjustable or offset ball joints. My front tires have been wearing a lot more on the outside half, more so the front passenger tire. I think I can get an app that I can hold my phone to the wheel and it'll measure the camber, but what would you recommend? Adjustable or offset? I am planning to get a bigger lift someday, so would that be something to keep in mind?
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 10:15 PM
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New Moog arms will be much easier than bushings only. Do not buy the arms on eBay, they are very cheap and flimsy.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 10:36 PM
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Definitely recommend that you take your Jeep to an alignment specialist and have them use a 4 wheel alignment machine. An app on your phone won't be accurate enough. You may just need your toe corrected.

I know the grand cherokee arms are an upgrade, the bushings transmit less NVH. Some modifications are necessary though.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 11:18 PM
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There is no alignment on the rear. If its out, something is bent or broken.

On the front, toe can be adjusted as on most cars. Changing castor requires shims and camber requires adjustable ball joints.

If you are short on funds, then you can save some money by buying only the bushings. It is easier with new arms. For the upper control arms, there is only one bushing in the arm. The other side is pressed into the axle. A set of 8 bushings is going to cost less than $100 and maybe less than $75. Buy good ones, like MOOG. Don't buy cheap Chinese crap that is going to fail in a year or two. It's cheaper to fix the problem than let your tires wear out from worn parts.

It's best to check for wear/looseness in the suspension and replace what's worn, and get an alignment.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 11:52 PM
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Thanks for all the advice, guys! Couple questions, though....One., what's NVH? And two, it was said one of the bushing is pressed into the axle? If that one is like that, how would I get it out then? As for the ball joints, I don't think I'll be able to afford top of the line Moog....I was looking at Napa's website and they list ball joints made by Master Ride Chassis. Anyone heard of them?

Last edited by TwoXJS; Jul 16, 2014 at 11:55 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoXJS
Thanks for all the advice, guys! Couple questions, though....One., what's NVH? And two, it was said one of the bushing is pressed into the axle? If that one is like that, how would I get it out then?
Noise, Vibration, Harshness. There are two bushings on the axle. You can press them out with a large "C" clamp.
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
Noise, Vibration, Harshness. There are two bushings on the axle. You can press them out with a large "C" clamp.
Ah, okay, that makes sense! Another thing just came to mind as well....When I get in and start it up and turn the wheel, normally to the left, as soon as it starts to turn the tires, there's a loud POP! IT may do it only once in a while, or anytime it turns either direction. To me, it sounds like metal popping apart....Any idea what it might be so I could try and check it out?
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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Check the torque of the bolts securing the frame mounted track bar bracket. That bracket can come loose and will pop when turning.
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 08:32 AM
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What track bar are you running? Stock, aftermarket? Those track bars with the ball joints really suck & get worn out fast. My Rugged Ridge trackbar is 3 years old & the bushing at the axle is already worn out giving me some play in my steering.
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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For ball joints, get MOOG, Spicer, or NAPA Chassis Products (not their Master Ride line).

You can buy MOOG parts online for about 1/2 what you can at a retail store.

Or use coupons for the retail stores. There's something to be said for buying locally where you can put a bad part back on the counter.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 09:01 PM
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On the control arm issue rough country arms could be had for around 120 bucks shipped. A lot dont like rough country but if your bushings are toast then the bushings in rough country arms are better than what your wore out ones.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by xjandrew5711
On the control arm issue rough country arms could be had for around 120 bucks shipped. A lot dont like rough country but if your bushings are toast then the bushings in rough country arms are better than what your wore out ones.
Why don't you like Rough Country?
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
Why don't you like Rough Country?
Cheap garbage that lasts as long as a french fry in a fast food parking lot.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Cheap garbage that lasts as long as a french fry in a fast food parking lot.
Personal experience, or just what "they" keep saying?
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 11:50 PM
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I've got one of their 3" lifts and it seems to be pretty good, not that I've had any others, though. New springs all the way around (when it was new....) and shocks, but I'm planning to get some good Monroe or something ones when I can.
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