New brake system questions
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
New brake system questions
I'm slowly working on my 95 Cherokee so it will be ready to give my oldest son for his first vehicle, last weekend the brakes failed while moving it around the driveway so time to fix that. The metal line is what failed because of rust and 20+ years old so I'm thinking it is time to put all new lines in but never done anything like this before. So hoping some others here can help me out a little.
My main questions are
The line that runs to the rear is it one piece or is it in sections?
How many fitting will I need if I make my own lines?
And would it be better to just buy premade lines with fittings already on them?
I'm thinking of buying a 25' roll of brake line and making my own but by the time I buy fittings I'm thinking it will be $40-50. If I only need a few premade lines it could be better to go that way. Anyone know how many lines are needed?
2 lines on rear axle
1 line from master cylinder to rear axle
1 line to front passenger
1 line to front driver
Did I forget any? If not getting those lines might be cheaper.
My main questions are
The line that runs to the rear is it one piece or is it in sections?
How many fitting will I need if I make my own lines?
And would it be better to just buy premade lines with fittings already on them?
I'm thinking of buying a 25' roll of brake line and making my own but by the time I buy fittings I'm thinking it will be $40-50. If I only need a few premade lines it could be better to go that way. Anyone know how many lines are needed?
2 lines on rear axle
1 line from master cylinder to rear axle
1 line to front passenger
1 line to front driver
Did I forget any? If not getting those lines might be cheaper.
#2
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I know the two lines along the rear axle are still available as NOS. One is like $6 and the other a little more. Pretty cheap and better fit than bending them yourself. The others I'm not sure if they are still available. Pretty sure I read of others replacing them with NOS though.
#3
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not to sound like a idiot but NOS is that "new old stock"? if not I'm lost.
For the rear axle I was looking at these. http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...?checkfit=true
They are 30" so might be too long but they have 20" also. I was planning on getting under the jeep with a tape measure in the morning before going to the parts store.
For the rear axle I was looking at these. http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...?checkfit=true
They are 30" so might be too long but they have 20" also. I was planning on getting under the jeep with a tape measure in the morning before going to the parts store.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I know the two lines along the rear axle are still available as NOS. One is like $6 and the other a little more. Pretty cheap and better fit than bending them yourself. The others I'm not sure if they are still available. Pretty sure I read of others replacing them with NOS though.
#5
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Year: 1995
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i just called the local dealer and they don't have lines for my jeep.
I was really thinking that buying a 25' roll and making my own was the way to go but looking at the prices I think it's better to buy them premade. And I bet the flares will be much better then I could do.
I was really thinking that buying a 25' roll and making my own was the way to go but looking at the prices I think it's better to buy them premade. And I bet the flares will be much better then I could do.
#6
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NOS is new old stock. There's several mopar and jeep websites that sell them. Also there are some on eBay.
#7
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And also some pre bent kits that are reproduction can be found on eBay. Obviously pre bent won't be the cheapest option but they aren't terribly expensive and much more simplified and less time consuming.
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Do yourself a favor. Get a decent flaring tool and a roll of cupro-nickel brake line. Easy to work with, and the rest of the Jeep will rust away to nothing before that stuff gives out.
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Year: 2000
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On my '00 I bought premade copper/nickel alloys and cut down a line or two. If you are doing all your lines I say buy new hoses too. Will need a T40 torx, I believe, to get the fronts disconnected from the inside of the fender well. Also I recommend doing the rear line in 2 pieces with a connector. Also the passenger side front too. Made my life easier doing it that way.
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
A massive +1 on the "CUPRO" line. I just redid front brakes from the master cyl to the calipers and the material is amazing. Steel or "Poly" line can **** off as far as I'm concerned.
If you're replacing everything, all the fittings you need are 3/8". You will only need to make double-flares. I strongly recommend picking up extra nuts and a couple of unions - the passenger front line went in before the engine and wiring harness at the factory. With two pieces I was able to get a "pretty good" fit behind and under everything. The copper-nickel stuff bends nicely by hand.
The rear hard line can be replaced with a single piece, or put a union in there to make the work easier. The factory installed a short section from the master cylinder to an adapter with some metric bubble flare crap for ABS - just replace all of it.
Don't forget hoses!
Also, Dorman Speed Bleeders have a check valve in them. They are really cheap on Rock Auto. Super handy.
If you're replacing everything, all the fittings you need are 3/8". You will only need to make double-flares. I strongly recommend picking up extra nuts and a couple of unions - the passenger front line went in before the engine and wiring harness at the factory. With two pieces I was able to get a "pretty good" fit behind and under everything. The copper-nickel stuff bends nicely by hand.
The rear hard line can be replaced with a single piece, or put a union in there to make the work easier. The factory installed a short section from the master cylinder to an adapter with some metric bubble flare crap for ABS - just replace all of it.
Don't forget hoses!
Also, Dorman Speed Bleeders have a check valve in them. They are really cheap on Rock Auto. Super handy.
#11
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A massive +1 on the "CUPRO" line. I just redid front brakes from the master cyl to the calipers and the material is amazing. Steel or "Poly" line can **** off as far as I'm concerned.
If you're replacing everything, all the fittings you need are 3/8". You will only need to make double-flares. I strongly recommend picking up extra nuts and a couple of unions - the passenger front line went in before the engine and wiring harness at the factory. With two pieces I was able to get a "pretty good" fit behind and under everything. The copper-nickel stuff bends nicely by hand.
The rear hard line can be replaced with a single piece, or put a union in there to make the work easier. The factory installed a short section from the master cylinder to an adapter with some metric bubble flare crap for ABS - just replace all of it.
Don't forget hoses!
Also, Dorman Speed Bleeders have a check valve in them. They are really cheap on Rock Auto. Super handy.
If you're replacing everything, all the fittings you need are 3/8". You will only need to make double-flares. I strongly recommend picking up extra nuts and a couple of unions - the passenger front line went in before the engine and wiring harness at the factory. With two pieces I was able to get a "pretty good" fit behind and under everything. The copper-nickel stuff bends nicely by hand.
The rear hard line can be replaced with a single piece, or put a union in there to make the work easier. The factory installed a short section from the master cylinder to an adapter with some metric bubble flare crap for ABS - just replace all of it.
Don't forget hoses!
Also, Dorman Speed Bleeders have a check valve in them. They are really cheap on Rock Auto. Super handy.
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