Well, I got the new exhaust on in time for the Inspection but I didn't think to check the brake lines. FAIL.

Front Right, Front Left, and Front to Back - all failed. Rear left, rear right - advisory. I can't legally drive my Heap except to get it to a garage

Should I man up and buy a roll of Kunifer and a flare tool? Or cave and take it to the nearest garage and feed my family on noodles for a couple of months?

Could someone tell me how hard it would be to replace all my brake lines and whether someone who counts hanging an exhaust/changing front brakes as a victory should even attempt this?

 

Did the hardlines fail or just the flex lines down to each wheel?

 

It's the hardlines

 

replacing the lines is easy. it is the bleeder screws on the calipers that sucks. if you got or can get your hands on a decent torch. even one of the small ones with mapp gas to heat them. will be good. as far as lines go, do it yourself. the prices they want at a shop are insane.

 

I buy pre-made lines at the auto parts. They are not expensive. You just add a lupe or two, where they are too, too long. It should be free to borrow a bender tool...I have never needed one. Two box wrenches, a tad at a time can bend it without kinking it. Maybe pick up an extra 18"piece to practice a bit......

 

Buy the double flare tool and do it yourself.

http://www.plumberscrib.com/ridgid-2...e2AaAqqV8P8HAQ

 

Don't forget the flare nut wrenches.

 

Hi there Pete. Hey, wondering, some number of stock leingths must fit reasonably OK, where others might be better custom. Being I'm in CA, my only problem is when my models figure out I really am only a mountain hermit, not a Hollywood Producer.

Maybe someone with the "internet punch" , (you), could enlist someone to crunch out which stock lengths fit OK (enough) and which really could be much better with a (borrowed), double flair tool.

 

OK, well I'm edging towards DIY. To hedge my bets I'm getting a quote from a good local mechanic but it won't be Mates Rates so I'm prepared for a shock - which will probably make DIY the only option.

There are a couple of things that worry me about DIY. Mainly the engine bay and above the fuel tank which in my case is a custom dual tank Propane/Gas setup and I won't be dropping that in a hurry.

If I go with a roll of cunifer and a double flare tool I think it might be possible, given enough time. There don't appear to be many pre-made options on the market here in England. Is it 3/16s?

Are there any other valves, joins, or other bits attached to the brake pipes that I should be looking to replace at the same time? The calipers are good. I'll do the front pads, rotors are OK (10k miles, about half worn). Rear drums are a mystery to me, but they were re-done a year ago.

Of course, it would probably make sense to do a ZJ Disk conversion at the same time.....

 

The best thing that I have found is ni-copp lines. They won't corrode and they are softer than the normal steel lines. I got brake line bender, but I didn't really use it.

For the bleeder screws, I had no problems using a butane torch, a candle and my little dewalt impact.

Trick is to heat up the bleeder screw, melt the wax onto the threads, let it cool, and hit it with the impact - all rotational force. If you can't impact, use a socket and support it so that only turning force is making it to the bleeder screw.