New Alternator, no charge (pics)
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Alright, i did it anyways cause I like working on the vehicle..and I had time before Family Guy which is now on 
the pics are of the Starter Solenoid coming off, being sanded down on all the connections, including the bolt itself, and nut. I then put it all back on.
I noticed the same thing when i started up the rig, it sat at 11.88V for quite a while with headlights on, and would take small amounts for the radio, brakes, fog lights, etc. Turned everything off but the interior lights and headlights. It didnt budge for quite a while, then it started to die again as usual.
No fix. I still didnt clean both grounds yet though. (by throttle body and one somewhere by Oil filter?)
I still need to go do what ET JEEP said.
For the wire going from the Alternator to the Starter Relay, I poked the line before and after the Fusable Link and it was reading full Volatage (matched the battery voltage). The wire from the Starter Relay to the Battery doesnt have a fusable link, just from the Alternator to the Starter Relay.
is that Voltage Regulator you are talking about inside the ALT, or somewhere else?
the pics are of the Starter Solenoid coming off, being sanded down on all the connections, including the bolt itself, and nut. I then put it all back on.
I noticed the same thing when i started up the rig, it sat at 11.88V for quite a while with headlights on, and would take small amounts for the radio, brakes, fog lights, etc. Turned everything off but the interior lights and headlights. It didnt budge for quite a while, then it started to die again as usual.
No fix. I still didnt clean both grounds yet though. (by throttle body and one somewhere by Oil filter?)
I still need to go do what ET JEEP said.
For the wire going from the Alternator to the Starter Relay, I poked the line before and after the Fusable Link and it was reading full Volatage (matched the battery voltage). The wire from the Starter Relay to the Battery doesnt have a fusable link, just from the Alternator to the Starter Relay.
is that Voltage Regulator you are talking about inside the ALT, or somewhere else?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L (Renix)
Nah, I mentioned in the post with those pics nothing was fixed. Just cleaner and neater lol (already pretty organized in my engine bay).
When I get home from work I will try testing the Alt again. Im pretty sure in my recent posts Ive done those checks and mentioned it...The only thing I havent done is test the positive wire from the Alt with the engine running. I just dont like 'doing' it because multimeter cables go through the engine bay while the belts and fans are spinning and the engine gets hot.
ET JEEP, you're just saying put the NEG Multimeter post on the NEG battery post, and the POS Multimeter post on the Alternator "BAT" (Positive cable, single eye hole), right? I believe my pic shows me doing that, but not running.
98jeepsrt6, I cant view that link at work (gov't networks are filtered and even as an admin I cant get around it). Ill check it out when I get home. The gyst of it is, new alternator, battery wont charge.
When I get home from work I will try testing the Alt again. Im pretty sure in my recent posts Ive done those checks and mentioned it...The only thing I havent done is test the positive wire from the Alt with the engine running. I just dont like 'doing' it because multimeter cables go through the engine bay while the belts and fans are spinning and the engine gets hot.
ET JEEP, you're just saying put the NEG Multimeter post on the NEG battery post, and the POS Multimeter post on the Alternator "BAT" (Positive cable, single eye hole), right? I believe my pic shows me doing that, but not running.
98jeepsrt6, I cant view that link at work (gov't networks are filtered and even as an admin I cant get around it). Ill check it out when I get home. The gyst of it is, new alternator, battery wont charge.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
that will make sure it is grounded those ground wires they were talking about on the pass side of block are right next to the oil dip stick
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L (Renix)
Its Friday, Ive got beer, and 3 days to figure this **** out...its time to get help after this if I cant do it!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L (Renix)
btw freegdr, I checked out that 89 2dr, I love the 2dr look! slightly higher and bigger tires than my taste, but you made it look sweet! now just chop your roof off, rear, and doors, and youll be a black taller version of me haha
haha
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: East Texas
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nah, I mentioned in the post with those pics nothing was fixed. Just cleaner and neater lol (already pretty organized in my engine bay).
When I get home from work I will try testing the Alt again. Im pretty sure in my recent posts Ive done those checks and mentioned it...The only thing I havent done is test the positive wire from the Alt with the engine running. I just dont like 'doing' it because multimeter cables go through the engine bay while the belts and fans are spinning and the engine gets hot.
ET JEEP, you're just saying put the NEG Multimeter post on the NEG battery post, and the POS Multimeter post on the Alternator "BAT" (Positive cable, single eye hole), right? I believe my pic shows me doing that, but not running.
98jeepsrt6, I cant view that link at work (gov't networks are filtered and even as an admin I cant get around it). Ill check it out when I get home. The gyst of it is, new alternator, battery wont charge.
When I get home from work I will try testing the Alt again. Im pretty sure in my recent posts Ive done those checks and mentioned it...The only thing I havent done is test the positive wire from the Alt with the engine running. I just dont like 'doing' it because multimeter cables go through the engine bay while the belts and fans are spinning and the engine gets hot.
ET JEEP, you're just saying put the NEG Multimeter post on the NEG battery post, and the POS Multimeter post on the Alternator "BAT" (Positive cable, single eye hole), right? I believe my pic shows me doing that, but not running.
98jeepsrt6, I cant view that link at work (gov't networks are filtered and even as an admin I cant get around it). Ill check it out when I get home. The gyst of it is, new alternator, battery wont charge.
Yes Pos meter on alt terminal and Neg to a good ground. Battery NEG is OK or you can go to a good ground on the engine somewhere. Any good metal surface on the engine or accessory connected to the engine will work.
With the engine off, you should read battery voltage. With the engine running you should read 13-15V.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L (Renix)
Yes Pos meter on alt terminal and Neg to a good ground. Battery NEG is OK or you can go to a good ground on the engine somewhere. Any good metal surface on the engine or accessory connected to the engine will work.
With the engine off, you should read battery voltage. With the engine running you should read 13-15V.
With the engine off, you should read battery voltage. With the engine running you should read 13-15V.
I had the battery charging over night, its fully charged now.
So with the Multimeter before starting the engine, its around 12.88, which is normal when this thing is charged (based on all my testing so far).
But when i tested the same cable with the engine running just now, it read the same reading (12.88-12.95).
So there isnt a +1 voltage charge on the alternator, is that whats supposed to happen? The Alt shoudl read about 1 volt higher when running and operating properly?
So far, everything is good.
Im going to test the Grounds that freegdr mentioned, by the dipstick. Its pretty corroded with mudd and probably oil. (my mudding was extensive when this happened). Would poor ground cause the Alt to NOT send charge to the Battery?
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Orono, Ontario
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I dont know about your year, but there are things called self exciting alts and external excited alts. What that means: the self exciting alts uses the battery voltage that comes off the B+ terminal to energize the rectifier and then it produces voltage when the alt starts turning. ( I think thats the right terms, correct me if im wrong). The external excited alt uses a 12v power lead that come out from the jeep into the alt and then it energizes the rectifier and it produces voltage when the alt starts turning.
Id image with that plug that you have going into the alt, you might have a ext excited alt. With your multimetre, put the neg lead on the neg batt terminal. With your pos lead, test every pin in that plug. I believe that with your key on, not running, you should see voltage on at least one pin. If you dont, there might be your problem. Your alt wont charge unless it gets that voltage.
Id image with that plug that you have going into the alt, you might have a ext excited alt. With your multimetre, put the neg lead on the neg batt terminal. With your pos lead, test every pin in that plug. I believe that with your key on, not running, you should see voltage on at least one pin. If you dont, there might be your problem. Your alt wont charge unless it gets that voltage.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L (Renix)
I dont know about your year, but there are things called self exciting alts and external excited alts. What that means: the self exciting alts uses the battery voltage that comes off the B+ terminal to energize the rectifier and then it produces voltage when the alt starts turning. ( I think thats the right terms, correct me if im wrong). The external excited alt uses a 12v power lead that come out from the jeep into the alt and then it energizes the rectifier and it produces voltage when the alt starts turning.
Id image with that plug that you have going into the alt, you might have a ext excited alt. With your multimetre, put the neg lead on the neg batt terminal. With your pos lead, test every pin in that plug. I believe that with your key on, not running, you should see voltage on at least one pin. If you dont, there might be your problem. Your alt wont charge unless it gets that voltage.
Id image with that plug that you have going into the alt, you might have a ext excited alt. With your multimetre, put the neg lead on the neg batt terminal. With your pos lead, test every pin in that plug. I believe that with your key on, not running, you should see voltage on at least one pin. If you dont, there might be your problem. Your alt wont charge unless it gets that voltage.
Okay, I just hooked the BATTERY up, 12.8-12.9 consistant (as usual).
Put the Multimeter NEG post on the BATTERY, POS post on the 2nd port of the 4pin connector that goes to the ALTERNATOR, it read about 11.92. This is with the accessory turned on, not cranked fully over.
So there is positive voltage to that connector, as well as to the POS "BAT" on the ALTERNATOR. So with power going in, and power coming out (minus a volt or so), whats this mean?
Here are the PSNGR Ground shots...if this can make a difference. Before and After spraying electrical parts cleaner on it. I couldnt get it off yet, the whole thing turned (including the bolt going into the block..) maybe thats why, bad ground connection?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: East Texas
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well I am just not familiar with that altenator. Check out the link posted by 98jeepsrt6 it has some troubleshooting info. You can see if your alternator looks like those pictured.
You do have a charging problem. You should read 13V + with the alternator charging. You might try one more test with the heater blower going and the lights on and see what you read. If it is still battery voltage you have a problem.
I would have the alternator checked at an auto electric shop.
You do have a charging problem. You should read 13V + with the alternator charging. You might try one more test with the heater blower going and the lights on and see what you read. If it is still battery voltage you have a problem.
I would have the alternator checked at an auto electric shop.
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Gonzales, Louisiana
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I dont know about your year, but there are things called self exciting alts and external excited alts. What that means: the self exciting alts uses the battery voltage that comes off the B+ terminal to energize the rectifier and then it produces voltage when the alt starts turning. ( I think thats the right terms, correct me if im wrong). The external excited alt uses a 12v power lead that come out from the jeep into the alt and then it energizes the rectifier and it produces voltage when the alt starts turning.
Id image with that plug that you have going into the alt, you might have a ext excited alt. With your multimetre, put the neg lead on the neg batt terminal. With your pos lead, test every pin in that plug. I believe that with your key on, not running, you should see voltage on at least one pin. If you dont, there might be your problem. Your alt wont charge unless it gets that voltage.
Id image with that plug that you have going into the alt, you might have a ext excited alt. With your multimetre, put the neg lead on the neg batt terminal. With your pos lead, test every pin in that plug. I believe that with your key on, not running, you should see voltage on at least one pin. If you dont, there might be your problem. Your alt wont charge unless it gets that voltage.
You have to have voltage going to the field coil inside the alternator to make it charge. The heavy wire that runs to the battery has nothing to do with actually "turning on" the alternator. One or more (or all) of the wires in that small pigtail should get power as soon as you turn the key to the "on" position. (Not "accessory")
Looking at the wiring diagram for your year (and I aint great at that either), BOTH of the green wires should have power when the key is on. One is dark green, and the other is green w/ red stripe. Book says one comes from the ecu, and the other comes from the ignition coil. Check that plug for power at both of those terminals. If you don't have it, start tracing them backwards looking for broken/loose connections.
Good luck!
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Gonzales, Louisiana
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L (Renix)
In his link (http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=39) I have the "CS" series.
I know my "I" pin in the connector is good because I believe it is the one that reads 11.95'ish with the key turned to "on". Its the only pin in that 4 pin connector that has charge.
so according to this link, my problem is still unresolvable...
Im gonna go work on the grounds some more. Worse case scenario, i have a clean *** engine bay by the time Im done! lol
I know my "I" pin in the connector is good because I believe it is the one that reads 11.95'ish with the key turned to "on". Its the only pin in that 4 pin connector that has charge.
so according to this link, my problem is still unresolvable...
Im gonna go work on the grounds some more. Worse case scenario, i have a clean *** engine bay by the time Im done! lol
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Gonzales, Louisiana
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
In his link (http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=39) I have the "CS" series.
I know my "I" pin in the connector is good because I believe it is the one that reads 11.95'ish with the key turned to "on". Its the only pin in that 4 pin connector that has charge.
so according to this link, my problem is still unresolvable...
Im gonna go work on the grounds some more. Worse case scenario, i have a clean *** engine bay by the time Im done! lol
I know my "I" pin in the connector is good because I believe it is the one that reads 11.95'ish with the key turned to "on". Its the only pin in that 4 pin connector that has charge.
so according to this link, my problem is still unresolvable...
Im gonna go work on the grounds some more. Worse case scenario, i have a clean *** engine bay by the time Im done! lol
Scroll down to the diagram. It looks like all three of the that are used should have power running to them. I realize that this is for fieros, but it's the same alternator. I was looking for a good wiring diagram. If your pigtail has a green/red and a green wire in it - They should definitely both be hot. The big wire in the pigtail should just loop back to the batt wire from the alt, and tie back into the battery +. It should also have power.