i just read a post on 4x4 .com guy had same problem your having he cleand the wires on the oval starter relay up but the batter it fixed his problem you showed a pic of it earlier in this post

 

I charged the battery (trickle charged over night past weekend) and took it to AutoZone, they said it passed, charged at 91% charged. So since it was free standing, it wasnt under load. You think the Battery even though it works, could be bad and would be keeping the Alternator from doing its job and provide recharge to the Battery?

 

 

this thing you do that yet

 

hmmm...I may have to tear that whole unit down that everything plugs into for the Main Positive power, and reconnect everything after a good cleaning. Maybe check wiring for frays or burns, but like I said, all wiring seems good.

I guess if the ALT cant successfully push power back up to the BATTERY from those cables/that junction/relay, it could be a likely culprit. I mean I did get everything pretty muddy..and probably wet at one point.

 

yup..thats what Im going to do now
Thanks for finding that article, Ive searched arounda nd never saw that forum. That pic is a good pic too...

Ill keep you guys posted on if this works. May not finish it tonight, gotta make dinner cause Im starving and then Family Guy will be on

 

he had done all the things you did now i cant find the article again

 

buy one from like an online store or something. i went thru 9 fuel pumps in my trans am from advance auto parts, autozone and napa. they were all brand new. they would quit once you installed them. bought a walbro 255 pump off summit finally and never had a problem again.

ive had that problem once also and it ended up being a wire i never was able to trace hanging on the exhaust and it would grounding out and killing the volts.

just an idea

 

and 3 alternators also from autozone til i finally bought one from summit also

 

da da da da da da da tick tock tick tock lol

 

You need to test the alternator output at the alternator to see if it is working. Set your voltmeter to the 20V scale. Connect the red positive lead to the alternator feed cable terminal. It should be that red cable in one of your pictures. Then connect the black meter lead to a good engine ground. Start engine and if the alternator is charging you will read 13-15 volts.

If it is not charging you could have a voltage regulator problem. Since the alternator tests good at the auto shop, I would think the problem is either the voltage regulator or the wiring/fuse link

Your wiring is a bit different from what I have seen. The alternator feed cable has a fuse link. This cable connects to the engine starter relay. From the engine starter relay a cable goes to the battery for charging. If the fuse link is bad it will not allow any voltage to flow.

If the alternator is charging then the problem is the fuse link cable. You can do a continuity test to make sure the fuse link is good.

I don't have good knowledge of you model Jeep. I am just looking at a wiring diagram.

 

Alright, i did it anyways cause I like working on the vehicle..and I had time before Family Guy which is now on

the pics are of the Starter Solenoid coming off, being sanded down on all the connections, including the bolt itself, and nut. I then put it all back on.

I noticed the same thing when i started up the rig, it sat at 11.88V for quite a while with headlights on, and would take small amounts for the radio, brakes, fog lights, etc. Turned everything off but the interior lights and headlights. It didnt budge for quite a while, then it started to die again as usual.

No fix. I still didnt clean both grounds yet though. (by throttle body and one somewhere by Oil filter?)





I still need to go do what ET JEEP said.

For the wire going from the Alternator to the Starter Relay, I poked the line before and after the Fusable Link and it was reading full Volatage (matched the battery voltage). The wire from the Starter Relay to the Battery doesnt have a fusable link, just from the Alternator to the Starter Relay.

is that Voltage Regulator you are talking about inside the ALT, or somewhere else?

 

all modern alt have internal voltage regulators did you ever check to see if the alt was gettimg a good ground with meter

 

It looks like you fuse link cable is good. With the engine off, do a voltage test at the end of the cable where it attaches to the alternator. You should read battery voltage. If you do, that cable is good, provided it is not corroded inside and creating high resistance.

Then start engine and test for voltage from the alternator. You should read 13-15 volts. If you do not, you have a voltage regulator problem if the alternator is good. I am not sure if you have an internal regulator or an external one. If it is internal it would seem this problem would have shown up when testing at the auto shop.

 

Hey guys ive read through here and have become confused on whats being said.. But heres an article i found that might help you out..

http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=39

I just finished up my alternator last week and from what i remember the eye hole cable goes to positive side of the battery..As for the first alternator the was "BAD" i think was shorted out.. And i think some alternators have internal grounds.. Its there to recharge/ give power to the vehicle.. I had my positive cable from alt(eye hole) .. going to the + battery then switched it back over to the fuse block in the engine area.. The others came from the harness and was attched to a lil black box that connects to the back of the alt..