Wow Ken. You are good!

 

It ain't over until that fat lady sings.

 

What happens if she just belches a couple times?

 

Thanks again Ken! I'll do these tests tomorrow. Looking at the schematic you posted, the only modules I have would be the airbag control module and the transmission control module. I don't have the SKIM, Overhead Console, and the Remote Keyless Entry.
Being that the airbag Control Module has had a history of acting up, would it be my prime suspect? I'm leary about messing with the airbag system. It's kind of like a live grenade. Any advice as how to safely unplug it without deployment?

 

Bash your head against the bumper until it goes off.

Just kidding... levity and all that...

Good luck fellas.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming...

 

I knew a mechanic who had his wrist broken.....hand on top the wheel while his head was under the dash.

 

Remove the battery negative post connector and wait a minimum of five (5) minutes before doing anything with the airbag system.


You can isolate the two air bags from the module by removing the trim panel and knee blocker from under the steering column and uncoupling the yellow airbag quick disconnect (see pic). After doing this remove the connector from the module.

 

Did the ohms check - 60.2 ohms between pins 3 & 11

 

That should be okay considering meter tolerances, although I'm still suspicious.


Did you try disconnecting the airbag module?

 

Haven't pulled it yet but I was double checking my testing procedures and I must have misread your instructions. When I tested pin 11, I didn't have a probe in cav. 4 or 5. When I did, the voltage was 2.32 at pin 11 which from the chart is just within the parameters it should read. Glad I rechecked.

But now I'm lost as what direction to go. Any ideas?

 

Good.


The CCD Bus seems to be okay.


I'm quietly concerned about the integrity of the splices you did to the small wires at G101. No reason to but it seems odd that this issue started after yo disturbed the connections at G101.


You can check the resistance of the TCM ground from the TCM connector to G101.


Here's the TCM connector pin out (below). You'll want to use a gas pedal mount stud as the ground for your meter while you probe the TCM connector ground cavity.


I suggest you remove the battery ground cable, then the positive cable, then reinstall the ground cable - then check the resistance. Obviously, you are only checking the TCM and not the PCM ground.


TCM pinout - Pin cav 24:





Gas pedal ground:

 

I'm quietly concerned about the integrity of the splices you did to the small wires at G101. No reason to but it seems odd that this issue started after yo disturbed the connections at G101.


I redid the splices tonight but ran out of light to do the resistance test. I used a ratchet crimper, then heat shrink tubing over the connector. I'm pretty confident about these splices but the litmus test will be the resistance test.....

 

Just tested pin cavity 24 on the TCM connector.

.4 ohms

 

Well, if nothing else you have shown that your engine bay grounds are near perfect so I think you can put that behind you.


I reread you first post and see that you had a no start issue before working on your ground cables and that it could not be duplicated at the shop. This would suggest to me that you may have a wiring issue, i.e., wire(s) chafing and opening up or shorting to a power source or to ground.


You might try visually inspecting the wire looms for chafing through to the wires within - starting at the coil connector and working behind the distributor, then up to the larger looms behind the rocker cover, then at the rear of the fuel rail. Try shifting /wiggling wire bundles and see if it makes a difference.


I noticed that in one of your posts that you said you got 12 volts at the coil connector 'white wire'. The white wire is actually grey. It is the ignition coil driver circuit from the PCM, which provides a ground to the coil. This wire should not have 12 volts on it. See coil diagram below.


Under what condition did you see 12 volts at the white/grey wire? Where you cranking the engine at the time or was it when the engine wasn't being cranked?


.

 

That reading at the coil was with the key in the run position and not cranking. I will check it again.