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It never ends, replaced battery grounds now no start

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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 03:42 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by aj2494
I know this sounds really dumb, but did you check the battery terminals and connections? I had a loose connection on one of my terminals that kept me chasing my tail for a while. Sometimes I would have no power at all, and sometimes it would crank but then not turn over. Rummaging around in there may have disrupted something.

BlueRidgeMark, I just would caution against taking the Advance/Autozone/etc. battery test as gospel. I had one store tell me a perfectly good battery was bad.
Both battery terminals are tight. The negative terminal is new as are the ground cables.

With the new battery, cranking volts are 11 volts...
Swapped in a used cam position sensor. Still no joy......
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 05:43 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Crow Horse
I'm getting spark but it wasn't blue and I thought it should appear stronger....What would cause a weak spark? I installed a working coil.....

How "working" is it.


You can test the coil.


See pics.


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Testing Primary - 200 Ohm scale:


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Testing Secondary - 20K Ohm scale:


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Testing the coil while it's still installed is made easier if you fab some test leads like these. Terminals available at O'reilly's.


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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 06:30 PM
  #18  
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Thank you Ken! I have an aftermarket that is out of spec by a little and a Mopar one although it's pedigree is questionable. Had difficulty testing it as it's installed. I'll pick another one up and keep my fingers crossed......
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 08:45 AM
  #19  
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Crow,I would put all parts back to original,clean all ground terminals,add dielectric grease & make sure all are tightened completely.
Also "new" battery cranking of 11 volts is not good.
Inspect & clean the wires at your starter. Is your starter covered in oil?
How fast is the starter spinning?
And are you getting good spark at your plugs?
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 10:05 AM
  #20  
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I respectfully submit the following (within the quote)


Originally Posted by madmanmarty
Crow,I would put all parts back to original,clean all ground terminals,add dielectric grease & make sure all are tightened completely.

The OP has installed new ground cables and used Ox-Guard, which is good. Never use Dielectric grease on ground or B+ ring terminals

Also "new" battery cranking of 11 volts is not good.

What's wrong with 11 volts? That's good. I hope you don't expect to see 12 volts during the cranking cycle.

Inspect & clean the wires at your starter. Is your starter covered in oil?
How fast is the starter spinning?

The OP said he has no problem cranking (post #1)

And are you getting good spark at your plugs?

OP said he doesn't have a blue spark so he's going to try a new coil.

.
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 04:44 PM
  #21  
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Update - Replaced coil, no joy.... Getting 12.2 volts at the coil (white wire)....

Last edited by Crow Horse; Feb 23, 2016 at 05:00 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 05:40 PM
  #22  
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Fuel, air, spark.

Have you checked the fuel pump lately?
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 06:10 PM
  #23  
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Crow,


Could you itemize all the parts you have changed and the steps you have taken to troubleshoot.
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 06:12 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Jimbo Slice
Fuel, air, spark.

Have you checked the fuel pump lately?
Fuel pump is working. Plugs are wet after start attempts......
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 06:16 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Crow Horse
Update - Replaced coil, no joy.... Getting 12.2 volts at the coil (white wire)....

Look at the schematic in post 17. You can see a Grey wire coming from the PCM - it's the driver wire (ground pulse). The Dark Green/Orange tracer wire is the power wire from the ASD relay. You won't see 12 volts from the ASD until the engine is rotating and the CPS sees the rotation and pulls the ASD relay in. The ground pulse from the PCM is controlled by the Cam Sensor.
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 06:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Crow,


Could you itemize all the parts you have changed and the steps you have taken to troubleshoot.
Replace battery to engine ground, battery to fenderwell, battery to radiator support with 4AWG marine cable and engine to firewall ground.

Pulled plugs several times. They are getting fuel and are wet.
Replaced battery
Replaced coil
Tested CPS - good, infinite resistance between B & C terminals
Swapped in a cam pos. sensor. Have since replaced it with the original one that was newer
Spark looked weak to me slightly yellow
Cranks but no start. It wants to, but no joy...
Check fuses in PDC. All good
Swapped around relays with ASD relay.

I think thats about it.I hope this isn't pointing to the PCM...
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 06:36 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Look at the schematic in post 17. You can see a Grey wire coming from the PCM - it's the driver wire (ground pulse). The Dark Green/Orange tracer wire is the power wire from the ASD relay. You won't see 12 volts from the ASD until the engine is rotating and the CPS sees the rotation and pulls the ASD relay in. The ground pulse from the PCM is controlled by the Cam Sensor.
Forgive me if I'm not savy with this but are you saying that the cps might be at fault?

I've reread your post a dozen times and I'm not able to wrap my mind around it..

Last edited by Crow Horse; Feb 23, 2016 at 06:50 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by aj2494
BlueRidgeMark, I just would caution against taking the Advance/Autozone/etc. battery test as gospel. I had one store tell me a perfectly good battery was bad.

Good to know!
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 02:10 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Crow Horse
Replace battery to engine ground, battery to fenderwell, battery to radiator support with 4AWG marine cable and engine to firewall ground.

Pulled plugs several times. They are getting fuel and are wet.
Replaced battery
Replaced coil
Tested CPS - good, infinite resistance between B & C terminals
Swapped in a cam pos. sensor. Have since replaced it with the original one that was newer
Spark looked weak to me slightly yellow
Cranks but no start. It wants to, but no joy...
Check fuses in PDC. All good
Swapped around relays with ASD relay.

I think thats about it.I hope this isn't pointing to the PCM...
Bad spark? What's the cap/rotor and the coil to cap HV wire look like? Any chance the plug wires are misplaced? Distributor still in time? I can't imagine any of those things would have changed merely when replacing battery cables, but perhaps fixing the original problem caused another?

I think Ken is trying to explain what you should find on the two wires plugged into the coil. One supplies battery voltage, through the ASD relay after the engine is rotating. The other is switched off of ground by the PCM every time the coil should fire.
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 08:56 AM
  #30  
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Not brain surgery to figure out a 5 yr. old battery needs to be replaced off the bat.
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