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neutral safety switch

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Old 12-11-2008, 08:10 PM
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Hate those little electric gremlins!
Old 12-12-2008, 02:34 AM
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Code 41: Alternator Field not switching properly
Old 12-12-2008, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by vistacruiser
I was just musing on some of my own interesting electrical gremlins when encountered this thread. I have reseated and cleaned all connectors under the hood but the two big ones on the right side of the engine ... one of 'em is the NSS harness ... couldn't separate the plug or the other one right next to it either .... so that's what prompted my question about separating seized connectors... this thread probably wasn't truely the correct place to ask it .... sorry 'bout that
Hey no apologies needed.

Sometimes those connectors can be a beotch. If a good bit of moisture gets in there it can mess up them shiny metal prongs.

I usually just take a small screwdriver and make sure the locking tabs are far enough away. Then just muscle them, wiggle em, more muscle, then some more wiggling.....
You get the picture.
Old 12-12-2008, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by cherokeefamily
Hate those little electric gremlins!
Me too.
But not as much as GFM's (Garage Floor Monsters) They can be more irritating than Gremlins.
Old 12-12-2008, 04:40 PM
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That is a VERY cool link for the Nuetral Safety Switch rebuild. I gave it the old college try...took it apart, cleaned it all up inside, polished the contacts and greased it. My starting in Park and Back-up lights are still intermittent. Guess mine was too far gone. It was totally NASTY inside when I took it apart. So, I do believe the rebuild had to have helped a little bit.
Old 11-03-2012, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jstewart1960
I have a 1992 jepp cherokee laredo with auto trans 4wd and 4.0L engine. I have a bad neutral safety switch, when I do get started my jeep runs bad like power cutting off to the coil or something, can a bad neutral safety switch cause this problem too besides no backup lights and having to move shifter around until it starts.
this is easy you have 2 problems here the first the boggy sounding truck when its on is your crank position sensor this is very common ive replace them on not one but 2 94 xj's and the problem goes way
the second problem is the NSS easily replaced however more expensive then the CPS. a good by pass is to open the unit on the coupling (dont splice wires this exposes your electrical system to water and your reverse lights wont work) take a piece of striped wire and make a loop to short the 2 black wires together and carefully place them inside the coupling when you close it up your revese lights will still work and the truck should start.
Old 05-07-2020, 10:28 AM
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Hi All,

I had a mechanic adjust the NSS for me once about 10 months ago to get the reverse lights working for inspection, since then it will not even attempt to start in neutral and only starts in park. I also have had several occasions where the Jeep will not run, it will start and immediately die. I also know that this symptom can be other things, but I know it is not Crank Position or Cam Position. Both Sensors have been replaced. Usually, after playing with the shifter for a few minutes, I can get it to start and stay running.

I am not comfortable taking the switch apart and making adjustments, so I am going to opt to replace the NSS all together.

I plan on doing this myself and I have one key question:

If I buy a new switch, is it all set to go out of the box or do I need to adjust it when I install it?

Apologies if it's a dumb question, I've just never done it before and while the videos I've seen are good at explaining how to install, they don't say whether or not a new switch needs to be adjusted.
Old 05-07-2020, 11:20 AM
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Just follow the MANY videos on how to service the NSS. Even if you replace yours the new one needs adjusting. It's done after it's mounted (not on the inside of it) but before being secured. Why replace a perfectly good switch. If you run in to any issues just post here.
Old 05-07-2020, 10:20 PM
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Adjustment is done by loosening the bolt that holds it to the transmission, rotaing a bit and then tightening it back down. I usually put the trans in neutral and rotate it back-n-forth, and set it in the middle of the range where the reverse lights are on.
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