Looking at these tires for the first time i’m seeing studable and studded winter tires.

I probably don't want to have to add my own studs right? What’s the deal with studable?

 

why are these blizzak tires so highly rated?. They're not even studded.

 

Because the Blizzaks are essentially the O.G. of studless winter tires that actually grip on ice and snow. Nothing will replace a true studded tire on ice, but the Blizzaks were trailblazers.

 

All 4 is much preferred, but if you can only get 2, they go on the rear. All shops I know of will do this. Because the rear is lighter and can break free easier.

I would find a decent used set of 4 winter tires, if the alternative is having 2 winter tires and 2 summer tires. And I’ve bought many used sets which have done well.

Studs are probably great but illegal in some places. Like here in Michigan.

 

Non-studded winter tires are fine. They'll be a significant improvement by themselves. I prefer non-studded because they're quieter.

Definitely get a set of 4. Facebook Marketplace is a great place to find a set. Tough time of year to be looking though. Know what you're looking for with used tires. Plenty of people sell junk thinking its gold. Know how to read a date code.

 

I'm kinda old and have always driven in snow so have gone through the evolution of tires for winter. Keep in mind a lot depends on the snow temp. If it's below zero on packed snow anything works.. wet ice is tough
1) chains/ cable chains. Work great on snow/ice huge pita
2) the old"snow tires" with deep tread . Kinda useless, terrible on dry pavement

3) studs. Better than nothing, wear fast, may not be legal where you live.need to be put in when tires are new as little hole for stud fills with crud
4 real current generation winter tires, better than studs on slushy snow, always legal, wear fast.

A bit off topic. Google Kold Kutter screws. I put them in the bottom of my boot soles. No more busting my butt walking on ice

BTW.to the OP:. sounds like you haven't driven on snow much, that's fine, nobody is born that way. But something to do is find a BIG, EMPTY snow covered parking lot and practice and discover the limits of you, the vehicle and the tires. Plus it's fun.

 

What he said.

 

It’s been about twenty (33 years, wtf). But I learned to drive in ice and snow. I didn't mention that i’ve been sliding all over the place? The first fishtail caught me by surprise and i almost spun around but like i told myself at full volume afterwards, you still got it!

Still alive and the jeep’s still in one piece. So far so good. But I'm no longer a dumbass either and sliding around going to and from work seems unnecessary.

 

Yes. Yes it does.

 

Because they are excellent winter tires. I have used many sets on different vehicles over the years.

But any current generation winter tire will outperform an all-season tire in cold snowy weather.

 

 

Firestone used to make snow tires in 31x10.5-15; I regret not getting a set...

In my experience, you're better off only using 4wd when you need to go forward, and use 2wd for the rest of the time, but mainly when you need to steer. In "part time" 4WD, one tire MUST be slipping at all times, thus why you can't drive on dry pavement. So, driving on the ice or snow, you're shooting yourself in the foot right out of the gate by only having 3 tires with traction.

I find driving in "part time" 4wd to be an exercise in managing the slip. Something is always slipping, it's up to you to manage it. Don't have that issue in 2wd. Can't accelerate as well as with 4wd, but other than that, much easier to drive otherwise.

"Full time" 4wd with a NP242 transfer case is the cure for your woes. You can immediately tell the difference between driving in "part time" and "full time" 4wd due to the lack of slip with "full time". With the 52/48 bias of the NP242, the front pulls you much like a fwd car. If you don't have the wheel turned too sharply, you can pull yourself out of understeer by applying the gas, which is completely unnatural to do in a rwd vehicle. It's much easier to just leave the NP242 in "full time", for the whole winter if you wish, than it is to shift a NP231 out of 4wd every time you need to steer.

Edit: My DD is a 2wd pickup, so I'm very comfortable with oversteer. Understeer, on the other hand, sucks and that's what PT 4wd gets you when turning...

 

I can remember driving to pick up a new set of tyres, so it follows that what was on the XJ weren't the best, when it started raining hard & the ol' XJ was starting to get to be a bit of a handful. I couldn't believe the difference it made by putting it in 4WD (not normally something I'd so at highway speeds). Opportunities to drive in snow are rare but, if you've got 4WD, why wouldn't you use it in such conditions?

 

I agree, since I have a 232 I use part time whenever there’s ice or snow on the road. Difference is night and day. A front heavy short wheelbase vehicle like the XJ is more prone to fishtailing when in 2WD.

If it’s patchy I’ll use discretion. One thing the county likes to do is maintain “one clear wheel track” which still leaves 2 wheels to relieve windup. But by no means will I leave it in part time and turn through an intersection on dry pavement.

I also have nearly stock tires. 235 75 15. I would think large tires (like those that require lifts) would be harder on the drivetrain.

A future mod will be a 242. Someday.

 

one tiny thing I can add

its quite easy to add switches (and diode) that allow manual control over the gearbox solenoids to lock 1st or 2nd gear, or the torque convertor, for use in extreme conditions

I will see if I can find the link on how to do it, and add it GoJeep is the dude

Auto gear lock out (willyshotrod.com)