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Need to replace rocker panels inner and outer both sides
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Need to replace rocker panels inner and outer both sides
I just never go around replacing the rocker panels and they now have larger rust holes.
Looking at both rock panels without tearing them down I can see the rust extends up somewhat above the rocker panels into the body and into the rear wheel well on at least one side.
How much the rust extends I'm not really certain without a tear down. Bottom of the doors have have started to rust. Appears could be fixed with some bondo.
I'm most concerned about getting rid of any rust inside the rocker panels and near or in the sub-frame.
So I'm looking at inner and out rocker panel kits. One for the passenger and for the drivers side.
I found an ebay seller classic2currentfabrication with kits that use 19 ga. US steel.
$94.00 for each inner & outer kit, one for each side
Is this a fairly good deal or there's better deals elsewhere?
I remember seeing some kits made from aluminum, uncertain of the gauge.
I'm also considering to replace the stock rockers with some rockers made from round or square bar, leaving the underneath and inner part open. So all the moisture will drain off and dry instead of becoming trapped inside.
Anybody got any pictures of a quality-ish home job with the box tube?
Like the OP, I have to get mine done. I have the inner and outer kit from C2C...Bought it a month or so ago, and haven't gotten around to finding an installer yet. If it still looks like a driver-quality install, I'm open to alternatives and putting mine on ebay or something.
cut out and replace with 2x6 box tube looks great and super strong
My welder is one of the those old AC / DC 240 volts and I don't have 240 where I'm at. I went a head and got the thin stuff and will repair it probably using rivets. The main thing is I need to get in there and remove as much rust as possible and then paint with some Por-15 or Chassis Saver (which I have approx. a gallon of) Some of the rust appears to have gotten into at least one wheel well several inches I will probably just cut out the rust and then cut pieces of sheet metal riveting them into to any open spots. I don't think the rust has gotten into the subframe. If it has then I'll need to find a 110 welder and patch the frame. My welding skills are for heavier mild steel so perhaps I'll need to practice welding lighter metals. I think if I choose the correct rod and get the temperature set just right I should be able to weld without any problems.
One method I've seen online to install 2 x 6 bar as rockers is to cut wedge shape bars that extend out from the sub frame to the 2 x 6 bar which is then welded to a seam of the sub frame I believe? Not certain exactly as I haven't had the rocker panels off to look inside to see what I would be dealing with. However I don't have a 110 welder and no shop or garage. So for now I'm going to just install the thin stuff that doesn't really need much welding or one could possibly installed only by riveting? Some welding where needed would add additional strength. I may try to find a low amp 110 VAC welder that can do sheet metal.
The other thing I could do is just remove the old rocker panels, repair any rust problems and just leave the rocker panels off? I'm not certain as I would need to cut the rocker panels open to see what I'm dealing with.
The rust starts from the inside and eats it's way out.
If the rockers are gone the floors are too, pay particular attention to the front leaf spring mounting area. Pull the rear bumper covers and you'll probably notice a good portion of the quarter panels is history as well. You may want to evaluate the vehicle as a whole before you sink a bunch of dough in to it.
The rust starts from the inside and eats it's way out.
If the rockers are gone the floors are too, pay particular attention to the front leaf spring mounting area. Pull the rear bumper covers and you'll probably notice a good portion of the quarter panels is history as well. You may want to evaluate the vehicle as a whole before you sink a bunch of dough in to it.
The rocker aren't completely gone both sides do have rust holes several inches long. From my observation the rust is superficial and hasn't gotten int the frame. I think any rusted areas of the sub-frame can be repaired by plating similar to adding additional support to the sub-frame used pieces of metal or a
sub-frame strengthening kit.
The floors appear to be ok I can't see any holes at all feel strong, I'll need to pull the front and rear carpets to see if there's any damage. I'm planning on repainting the entire interior floor as well as parts of the underbelly.
Your right about the front springs (no front leafs on the XJ) frame support. There's an area the supports the front springs that can succumb to rust however this type of damage can be repaired. Once I drop the front axle I'll be able to get a better view what rust damage there actually is. From what I can see the rust has only gotten to parts of the body such as one of the wheel wells 2 or 3 inches near the one end of the rocker panel.
I already put a bunch of dough into, payed a used car lot 5k approx. 10 years ago. Gave it an OME lift, replaced front wheel bearings, after an exhaust shop couldn't seem to fix the exhaust problem , kept going in to have them fix the exhaust and another exhaust shop actually created more damage to the exhaust. I swapped out the entire exhaust system for a new one, replacing it myself using heavy duty clamps. I've done other things such as upgraded the fuel injectors. replaced fuel pump assembly with Mopar OEM iirc set me back $300.00. I have many spare parts I've picked up over the years, after replacing the alternator with crappy re manufactured alts four times (under free replacement warranty) After explaining to Rock Auto that their is something wrong with the $100.00+ remans they sent me a refund. So I found a new OEM (Mopar) Alternator and upgraded it from 117 amp to 150 amps (you can find these 40-50 amp upgrades online) otherwise you need to upgrade to the large case Denso that require modifications or a special bracket to fit on 97+. I've done numerous minor upgrades and repairs. Instead of finding another XJ and use it as a donor I decided to try and fix the rust problems.
I've already purchased another front axle from a wrecking yard for $150.00. I need to pick it up. I was told they would throw in any other components that are part of the front axle.
With a new front axle without rust issues I'm going to rebuild the front end steering and suspension components and have already purchased the rocker panel kits that include both the inner and out rocker panels for both sides.
I think this XJ has rust problems due to it was manufactured in Canada and sold to someone up in NE Canada where they have hot, cold and wet weather.
Anyway I did consider getting another vehicle and either selling the 98 XJ or use it as a donor car but then decided I didn't really want to spend at least a few thousand on another XJ. In my state and neighboring states the price of XJ's is going up, even with high miles many owners are asking over 5k One I looked at on craigslist has ~245,000+ miles and asking somewhere over 5k.
On Craiglist I remember seeing only one for under 4k (asking 3.8k) in my area as many people have already sunk money into them. I have seen some mostly stock without upgrades going for around ~8k. I don't recall seeing any with less than 150k miles.
I think I'm going to return the rocker panels and perhaps build a couple of rock sliders out of square bar.
After dropping off the Jeep at the auto shop to have the LCA mounts welded on I didn't receive any good news from the auto mechanics.
I was told that the underside was a mess and because of other rust problems with the sub-frame where the suspension connects they refused to weld on two new LCA mounts as they said the rest of the Jeep required too much additional work for them to create any warranty or guarantees. Things such as e.g. where the front and rear springs mount the brackets and potentially the sub-frame have sever rust. There were other things with the steering and suspension. I told them I planned on replacing the front axle with a new one without rust problems.
One mechanic said in it's current condition I would have a difficult time finding a shop who would work on only the LCA mounts or perhaps the entire Jeep due to the severity of the rust.
So they welded on one LCA mount on one side of the axle and didn't charge me anything. I then said good by and then left. The jeep currently runs good, however one mechanic told me in it's current condition he considered it to be unsafe. Perhaps he was being over cautious and was more concerned about liability issues.
So not having a garage and workshop I'm trying to determine if I will be able to perform the rust repairs my self, especially during the rainy seasons without any cover.
I think it may need two axles without rusted bracket mounts, the front and rear. The suspension probably needs to be completely removed along with both axles to access the rust issues with the uni-body and sub-frame.
I'd get rid of it however I've got alot of money sunk into it and XJ's are difficult to find in my area. I did find one XJ where the seller was asking 3.8k but all the rest are asking over 4k with one seller asking 8k.
I picked up a Hobart 130 amp mig welder. Which I'm hoping can do the welding on the uni-body and sub-frame.
I'm thinking of trying to do the work myseld i.e. repair any bad rust spots on the sub-frame where the suspension and drive train connect. However I'll probably need to remove at least the suspension, parts of the steering and one or both axles.
Ok, good idea. As soon as I can jack up the XJ to take some pics of the underside I'll post them. I'll take pics of the various rust areas including the front shock mounts and rear spring mounts, axle brackets, etc
Wow, and I thought I had bad rust (major rot of the cargo floor and over leaf spring brackets - floors already redone by P.O.)
You definitely should check the area above the leaf spring mounts. If you lift up the rear seat and pull the carpet back, check for rust there. It could be bad without any noticeable weakness in the rear floor in front of the seats.
Also pull back the carpet in the cargo area and check that there. Any rust hole in the rear quarter panels will allow water up into the cargo area (there's literally nothing else between the trim panels and the outside.
You need to take a screwdriver and start poking around. Sections can appear to be just surface rust, but once poked will give away.
I had bad rot in the cargo floors (the entire corner sections were rotten and rot that went about 2/3 of the way from the back to the rear seats, but the frame rails and spring mounts were all solid. If you're replacing control arm mounts, your rust may be much worse.
What do you guys think? Im just learning to weld so im gonna try the floor pans and have a local fab shop check the frame and see if they can fix the frame spots. I should add id like to put these on https://www.hooliganoffroad.com/cart. So you guys think its worth it? Passenger innner rocker Drivers floor pan Attempt at repair by previous owners
07-12-2018, 07:05 PM
Need to replace rocker panels inner and outer both sides
