Need a new radiator
#1
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Thread Starter
Need a new radiator
So Im in need of a radiator. Ive got a leak somewhere and the radiator is all crap inside, so Im just going to swap it out along with the waterpump, hoses, etc.
HOWEVER, I went on RockAuto and there are a ton of radiators for my 99 4.0. Anyone have any insight? Thanks in advance!
HOWEVER, I went on RockAuto and there are a ton of radiators for my 99 4.0. Anyone have any insight? Thanks in advance!
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
But they'll all fit? There are no differences other than quality? One of them looked like it had a HUGE plug sticking out.
#5
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
if it is "all crap inside" your radiator, I highly suggest flushing the remainder of the cooling system while the rad is out. ie disconnect the heater core and flush it separately from the engine.
#6
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Here are some notes I saved. I one day might try to tackle this project myself
Many like the CSF HD 3 row radiator CFS 3 row.....$210
I just noticed radiator barn has a new name.
It used to sell $232 - 3 row..
http://radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator
Some general reading.
Oh noes! Brown Goop!
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/oh-...n-goop-159615/
Tranny line connector
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28973-800-714.aspx
Heater Cose Hose? Bypass Nipple?
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/am-...1/#post2194983
Cut off Quick connect tranny line
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rad...0/#post1143035
Tubing I used was 3/8" fuel line. It came in a box precut to 2'. I had to trim it a few inches off an end. 4 hose clamps. The hardest part is getting the tubing over the radiator inlet. Just monkey with it. Lol
Many like the CSF HD 3 row radiator CFS 3 row.....$210
I just noticed radiator barn has a new name.
It used to sell $232 - 3 row..
http://radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator
Some general reading.
Oh noes! Brown Goop!
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/oh-...n-goop-159615/
Tranny line connector
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28973-800-714.aspx
Heater Cose Hose? Bypass Nipple?
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/am-...1/#post2194983
I didn't use a write up. No huge roadblocks. It was fairly simple. Drain the coolant, remove the hoses and cooler lines from the radiator, remove the fans, remove the top of the core support, a couple of bolts and it's out. The tranny coupling was a little tricky. It has two little wings that need to be pushed in. I needed a fair amount of elbow grease though. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold in the wings and used my other hand to pull the line off.
There are a number of bolts holding the upper cross member in and the radiator is directly below the cross member. Remove both rad fans, hoses, tranny lines, etc. Bottom rad hose is much easier to remove/install when the air filter box is removed. The tranny lines have a "quick connect" so u need the "release tool" and it's available at most any auto parts store for a few bucks. Old rad just lifts straight up/out. New rad drops in making sure alignment pins find their holes. Make sure any parts/pieces on the old rad, that don't come with the new rad, get transferred to the new rad.....especially any rubber pads that keep the new rad from rubbing on hard mounting surfaces. ….....After double checking everything is back together correctly, hoses/lines re-attached, fans re-installed, etc., slowly fill the rad with 50/50 coolant/water mix until full. Leave the rad cap off and start the motor and let it idle. Turn the heater on. Keep the rad full while idling. When the motor reaches operating temp and the t-stat opens (may take 15-20 mins, top rad hose should get really hot), coolant/air will burp out of the rad. at that point, install a new rad cap. Test drive/check for leaks. For the next several days when the motor is COLD, check coolant level in both the recovery bottle and radiator. Add coolant as needed. When the motor is COLD, the rad should remain full to the top and the bottle should be +/-1/3 full, motor COLD. Hope this helps and good luck.
After double checking everything is back together correctly, hoses/lines re-attached, fans re-installed, etc., slowly fill the rad with 50/50 coolant/water mix until full. Leave the rad cap off and start the motor and let it idle. Turn the heater on. Keep the rad full while idling. When the motor reaches operating temp and the t-stat opens (may take 15-20 mins, top rad hose should get really hot), coolant/air will burp out of the rad. at that point, install a new rad cap. Test drive/check for leaks. For the next several days when the motor is COLD, check coolant level in both the recovery bottle and radiator. Add coolant as needed. When the motor is COLD, the rad should remain full to the top and the bottle should be +/-1/3 full, motor COLD. Hope this helps and good luck.
There are a number of bolts holding the upper cross member in and the radiator is directly below the cross member. Remove both rad fans, hoses, tranny lines, etc. Bottom rad hose is much easier to remove/install when the air filter box is removed. The tranny lines have a "quick connect" so u need the "release tool" and it's available at most any auto parts store for a few bucks. Old rad just lifts straight up/out. New rad drops in making sure alignment pins find their holes. Make sure any parts/pieces on the old rad, that don't come with the new rad, get transferred to the new rad.....especially any rubber pads that keep the new rad from rubbing on hard mounting surfaces. ….....After double checking everything is back together correctly, hoses/lines re-attached, fans re-installed, etc., slowly fill the rad with 50/50 coolant/water mix until full. Leave the rad cap off and start the motor and let it idle. Turn the heater on. Keep the rad full while idling. When the motor reaches operating temp and the t-stat opens (may take 15-20 mins, top rad hose should get really hot), coolant/air will burp out of the rad. at that point, install a new rad cap. Test drive/check for leaks. For the next several days when the motor is COLD, check coolant level in both the recovery bottle and radiator. Add coolant as needed. When the motor is COLD, the rad should remain full to the top and the bottle should be +/-1/3 full, motor COLD. Hope this helps and good luck.
After double checking everything is back together correctly, hoses/lines re-attached, fans re-installed, etc., slowly fill the rad with 50/50 coolant/water mix until full. Leave the rad cap off and start the motor and let it idle. Turn the heater on. Keep the rad full while idling. When the motor reaches operating temp and the t-stat opens (may take 15-20 mins, top rad hose should get really hot), coolant/air will burp out of the rad. at that point, install a new rad cap. Test drive/check for leaks. For the next several days when the motor is COLD, check coolant level in both the recovery bottle and radiator. Add coolant as needed. When the motor is COLD, the rad should remain full to the top and the bottle should be +/-1/3 full, motor COLD. Hope this helps and good luck.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rad...0/#post1143035
Tubing I used was 3/8" fuel line. It came in a box precut to 2'. I had to trim it a few inches off an end. 4 hose clamps. The hardest part is getting the tubing over the radiator inlet. Just monkey with it. Lol
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 01-05-2014 at 05:03 PM.
#7
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Year: 1997
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I don't believe you bimmer, there is no way you replaced a radiator without a 20 page write up and bringing in a mechanic or two. Lol
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#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
In all seriousness though, bimmer i give you credit. Keep working at it dude and you'll have that jeep conquered in no time. In fact sometime this week i'm swapping out my entire rear end. Leaf springs, axle, rear shocks, basically everything in the rear end. I might record the shocks just for you buddy.
Last edited by HudsonN; 01-05-2014 at 01:40 PM.
#10
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's funny to read people who have zero comprehension try to talk **** on Bimmer. His post quite clearly states he didn't do that yet. I'll give the dude some points for perseverance.
#11
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
While we are on topic of radiators... I was under the hood, locating the source of a squeal. It appears to be the water pump, as I could see a slight wobble in the pulley, while it rotates. When I laid my hand over the header panel, I just happened to lay it over a point to where I could touch the radiator and noticed it could move with the slightest touch. I'm going out on a limb here and will say I don't think it should move. Am I on to something? I would think it would have to be attached and secured in some way.
When I purchased the jeep, I bought it from some Puerto Rican (not hatin'), that claimed to be a mechanic. Since I've owned it, I will have to say, that whatever shop he works for, I would highly NOT recommend.
When I purchased the jeep, I bought it from some Puerto Rican (not hatin'), that claimed to be a mechanic. Since I've owned it, I will have to say, that whatever shop he works for, I would highly NOT recommend.
#13
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
If I ever do this job, I will document it properly for other beginners.
None of this stuff is trivial. There's a reason people pay dealers $540 to change the radiator, and they often have a 2-3 week waiting list !
There's no shame in trying to learn what is involved before trying it yourself. It's called "planning ahead", and it will get you pretty far in life.
Did you check for some missing bolts? While it's not critical a radiator be perfectly immobile, it probably shouldn't be clattering about, either.
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 01-05-2014 at 06:49 PM.
#14
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My CSF all metal 3 core radiator (around $180 from the Radiator Barn) only lasted 2 years before I noticed some leaks just last week. Maybe I got a bad one.........don't know. They come highly recommended. Anyway.
I decided to buy local this time and got a lifetime warranty. I went to Advance Auto (online) and chose the aluminum core with plastic tanks radiator. That's what was factory so why not try one of them.
I bought a radiator, lower hose and a radiator cap for around $80 using an online coupon for $50 off a $125 order. We'll see how long this one lasts.
Link to radiator: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hTerm=radiator
The best coupon I could find now is for $40 off $100 or $50 off $175 order.
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=4342826
I decided to buy local this time and got a lifetime warranty. I went to Advance Auto (online) and chose the aluminum core with plastic tanks radiator. That's what was factory so why not try one of them.
I bought a radiator, lower hose and a radiator cap for around $80 using an online coupon for $50 off a $125 order. We'll see how long this one lasts.
Link to radiator: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hTerm=radiator
The best coupon I could find now is for $40 off $100 or $50 off $175 order.
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=4342826