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Need a new radiator

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Old 01-03-2014, 09:40 PM
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Default Need a new radiator

So Im in need of a radiator. Ive got a leak somewhere and the radiator is all crap inside, so Im just going to swap it out along with the waterpump, hoses, etc.


HOWEVER, I went on RockAuto and there are a ton of radiators for my 99 4.0. Anyone have any insight? Thanks in advance!
Old 01-03-2014, 09:47 PM
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You get what you pay for, don't get the cheapest one listed, but you'll be ok with a mid priced one.
Old 01-05-2014, 11:34 AM
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But they'll all fit? There are no differences other than quality? One of them looked like it had a HUGE plug sticking out.
Old 01-05-2014, 11:39 AM
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If rockauto listed it for your vehicle it should fit.
Old 01-05-2014, 12:03 PM
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if it is "all crap inside" your radiator, I highly suggest flushing the remainder of the cooling system while the rad is out. ie disconnect the heater core and flush it separately from the engine.
Old 01-05-2014, 01:00 PM
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Here are some notes I saved. I one day might try to tackle this project myself

Many like the CSF HD 3 row radiator CFS 3 row.....$210
Amazon.com: CSF 98-01 Jeep Cherokee Radiator 3 ROW/AMR 2671: Automotive Amazon.com: CSF 98-01 Jeep Cherokee Radiator 3 ROW/AMR 2671: Automotive


I just noticed radiator barn has a new name.
It used to sell $232 - 3 row..
http://radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator


Some general reading.

Oh noes! Brown Goop!
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/oh-...n-goop-159615/

Tranny line connector
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28973-800-714.aspx



Heater Cose Hose? Bypass Nipple?
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/am-...1/#post2194983

I didn't use a write up. No huge roadblocks. It was fairly simple. Drain the coolant, remove the hoses and cooler lines from the radiator, remove the fans, remove the top of the core support, a couple of bolts and it's out. The tranny coupling was a little tricky. It has two little wings that need to be pushed in. I needed a fair amount of elbow grease though. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold in the wings and used my other hand to pull the line off.

There are a number of bolts holding the upper cross member in and the radiator is directly below the cross member. Remove both rad fans, hoses, tranny lines, etc. Bottom rad hose is much easier to remove/install when the air filter box is removed. The tranny lines have a "quick connect" so u need the "release tool" and it's available at most any auto parts store for a few bucks. Old rad just lifts straight up/out. New rad drops in making sure alignment pins find their holes. Make sure any parts/pieces on the old rad, that don't come with the new rad, get transferred to the new rad.....especially any rubber pads that keep the new rad from rubbing on hard mounting surfaces. ….....After double checking everything is back together correctly, hoses/lines re-attached, fans re-installed, etc., slowly fill the rad with 50/50 coolant/water mix until full. Leave the rad cap off and start the motor and let it idle. Turn the heater on. Keep the rad full while idling. When the motor reaches operating temp and the t-stat opens (may take 15-20 mins, top rad hose should get really hot), coolant/air will burp out of the rad. at that point, install a new rad cap. Test drive/check for leaks. For the next several days when the motor is COLD, check coolant level in both the recovery bottle and radiator. Add coolant as needed. When the motor is COLD, the rad should remain full to the top and the bottle should be +/-1/3 full, motor COLD. Hope this helps and good luck.

After double checking everything is back together correctly, hoses/lines re-attached, fans re-installed, etc., slowly fill the rad with 50/50 coolant/water mix until full. Leave the rad cap off and start the motor and let it idle. Turn the heater on. Keep the rad full while idling. When the motor reaches operating temp and the t-stat opens (may take 15-20 mins, top rad hose should get really hot), coolant/air will burp out of the rad. at that point, install a new rad cap. Test drive/check for leaks. For the next several days when the motor is COLD, check coolant level in both the recovery bottle and radiator. Add coolant as needed. When the motor is COLD, the rad should remain full to the top and the bottle should be +/-1/3 full, motor COLD. Hope this helps and good luck.
Cut off Quick connect tranny line
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rad...0/#post1143035

Tubing I used was 3/8" fuel line. It came in a box precut to 2'. I had to trim it a few inches off an end. 4 hose clamps. The hardest part is getting the tubing over the radiator inlet. Just monkey with it. Lol

Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 01-05-2014 at 05:03 PM.
Old 01-05-2014, 01:08 PM
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I don't believe you bimmer, there is no way you replaced a radiator without a 20 page write up and bringing in a mechanic or two. Lol
Old 01-05-2014, 01:12 PM
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No plasma cutter used? Not a chance he did it himself.
Old 01-05-2014, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Demonoid369
I don't believe you bimmer, there is no way you replaced a radiator without a 20 page write up and bringing in a mechanic or two. Lol
Originally Posted by Bustedback
No plasma cutter used? Not a chance he did it himself.
He didn't do it yet. He's researching this one for a year as well.

Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
I one day might try to tackle this project myself
In all seriousness though, bimmer i give you credit. Keep working at it dude and you'll have that jeep conquered in no time. In fact sometime this week i'm swapping out my entire rear end. Leaf springs, axle, rear shocks, basically everything in the rear end. I might record the shocks just for you buddy.

Last edited by HudsonN; 01-05-2014 at 01:40 PM.
Old 01-05-2014, 01:53 PM
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It's funny to read people who have zero comprehension try to talk **** on Bimmer. His post quite clearly states he didn't do that yet. I'll give the dude some points for perseverance.
Old 01-05-2014, 02:03 PM
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While we are on topic of radiators... I was under the hood, locating the source of a squeal. It appears to be the water pump, as I could see a slight wobble in the pulley, while it rotates. When I laid my hand over the header panel, I just happened to lay it over a point to where I could touch the radiator and noticed it could move with the slightest touch. I'm going out on a limb here and will say I don't think it should move. Am I on to something? I would think it would have to be attached and secured in some way.

When I purchased the jeep, I bought it from some Puerto Rican (not hatin'), that claimed to be a mechanic. Since I've owned it, I will have to say, that whatever shop he works for, I would highly NOT recommend.
Old 01-05-2014, 03:09 PM
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The radiator is rubber mounted, there will be some movement.
Old 01-05-2014, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Demonoid369
I don't believe you bimmer, there is no way you replaced a radiator without a 20 page write up and bringing in a mechanic or two. Lol
You're right, the main reason I didn't attempt the radiator is the very poor quality of write-ups in the Jeep community.
If I ever do this job, I will document it properly for other beginners.

None of this stuff is trivial. There's a reason people pay dealers $540 to change the radiator, and they often have a 2-3 week waiting list !
There's no shame in trying to learn what is involved before trying it yourself. It's called "planning ahead", and it will get you pretty far in life.

Originally Posted by Gauge
Am I on to something? I would think it would have to be attached and secured in some way.
Did you check for some missing bolts? While it's not critical a radiator be perfectly immobile, it probably shouldn't be clattering about, either.

Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 01-05-2014 at 06:49 PM.
Old 01-05-2014, 06:46 PM
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My CSF all metal 3 core radiator (around $180 from the Radiator Barn) only lasted 2 years before I noticed some leaks just last week. Maybe I got a bad one.........don't know. They come highly recommended. Anyway.

I decided to buy local this time and got a lifetime warranty. I went to Advance Auto (online) and chose the aluminum core with plastic tanks radiator. That's what was factory so why not try one of them.

I bought a radiator, lower hose and a radiator cap for around $80 using an online coupon for $50 off a $125 order. We'll see how long this one lasts.

Link to radiator: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hTerm=radiator

The best coupon I could find now is for $40 off $100 or $50 off $175 order.
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=4342826
Old 01-05-2014, 06:50 PM
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With that coupon, that's $60 for a radiator. Wow.


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