Jonathan Goss

What's up, Jeep peeps! So I have a '97 Jeep Cherokee XJ Country 4.0 I6 with almost 200,000 miles on it currently in the transmission shop for repairs and need some help prioritizing which ones to go with.

The issues with the Jeep are that for the past several months its power has been diminished. It's hard to maintain speed on inclines and it's harder to get up to 70 MPH on the interstate, much less pass people when needed. I've had my beloved Jeep for a decade now and it has always had a "get-up-and-go" factor, but that factor has all but been eliminated over the past several months for some reason. The other issue is that the steering is looser and kinda wobbly nowadays. Gusts of wind make it slightly more difficult to control on the interstate whereas before there was no noticeable difference.

The only codes it throws are P0700 and P0705 (Neutral Safety Switch, which has been wonky for 3 years now). The mechanic says it shows no problem with the fuel line or the TPS.

I am told that the steering box could stand to be replaced, that there is some repairs needed on the transfer case, and that the exhaust manifold is cracked.

The solutions the transmission mechanic gave me were: Steering box replacement ($500), transfer case repair/replacement ($850-1000), and replace the exhaust manifold ($700).

My questions are: which of these should be done first and how difficult is it to replace the steering box and the exhaust manifold? The transfer case I believe is probably above my level of expertise.

Any advice on what to do to save money and keep my Jeep running for another 100,000 miles would be well appreciated.

Hate60

Well im working on removing/rebuilding my transfer case with no experience what so ever, so ill let you know how that all goes!

The Black

I would get this and some motor mounts. And I think you might get a Dodge Durango steering box for less than 500. Surely less at a junkyard.

http://www.ineedparts.com/auto-parts...-manifold.html

Jonathan Goss

Yeah, I looked up exhaust manifolds and they look to be at or below $200 and fairly straightforward as far as installation. Do you have any experience with them? Are there any tricks or heads up I need to be aware of before rounding up some help to remove/install one?

*SUPPLEMENTAL: Autozone has a Duralast Steering Gear ("Box", I assume) for $145. If I could do that one myself, I could save a ton of cash. Thank you for the link, The Black; if exhaust manifolds aren't too tricky to install and that link provides everything one needs, then I might end up having enough left over for another decent pistol or some more .45 ACP ammo.

The Black

I have a borla and do not recomend it if you have RE superflex control arms. On mine if my left front tire was flexed down in a hole and the rt front was at normal level the front driveshaft will hit the the down pipe. Borla should have made the downpipe go over to the oil pan a little more. That said if you have none superflex control arms mabe that would keep them from hitting. As far as taking them off I had someone else do it. If you have the right tools I think its just bolts. And on the motor mounts check out the Cherokeeforum Venders. Some of them sell some nice ones.

xj wheeler

Maybe this will save you some money. I know the steering box can be tightened. Mine is loose too, trying to figure out how to myself. The manifolds crack can be welded, but usually they just crack somewhere else. I looked in a repair manual and the transfer case doesn't seem that hard to replace. Its pretty much disconnect shift lever, a few lines/connectors, driveshafts, maybe exhaust, trans crossmember, and t-case bolts. Sounds a little hard,i know, but if you think about it its mainly just removing/installing some nuts and bolts. What is actually wrong with the transfer case?

Jonathan Goss

I don't know what's wrong with the transfer case. The mechanic said that it looked worn and that there might be some damage to the chain but he won't know until he gets in there. I don't think I can find that part (or know anyone who can help me install it) for much less than what I'd pay for it to be done, but I'll keep my eyes open (if anyone in Nashville, TN wants to volunteer, I'd be extremely grateful).

The manifold seems easy enough once you get around the issue with the siezed bolts. And I have a coworker who seems interested in helping me out on junk yard hopping for steering boxes. The transfer case swap looks daunting though, if it requires removing so many parts. I'm a total noob when it comes to this stuff but I'd like to learn...just not from a Hayne's manual or Internet write up because it's my DD and the only car I've ever owned so it's sorta my baby. I kinda need a person there to help me out in case things get more complicated than I anticipated or if something goes awry. But if I can get enough info here I might be able to convince some people to help out.

Thank you for all the advice thus far. It's giving me a better picture of what to expect and how to avoid getting ripped off.

jebmccall

the transfercase is simple to pull off man,its just nuts and bolts. but just cause it has 200k on it does not mean its worn out either. mine has 280 k on it and it is holding together just fine, never been gone through.

waltermitty

If your transfer case is working the way it should, ie: It shifts and works in all the ranges you need to find a new mechanic.

The exhaust manifold should be replaced if it is cracked. Try a junk yard and stick with the stock parts if you're not a gear head.

You can get a rebuilt steering box at an auto parts store for a reasonable price. Stay away from the JY version. Chances are it isn't any better than the one you have and will be about the same price as the parts store. Just make sure it needs one before you go to the trouble. Try turning the steering wheel side to side and watch the front wheels. That will determine how much slack is in the steering box/front end parts. You may have front end issues in the form of worn steering linkages and ball joints that is causing your problems. I would take it to a reputable front end alignment shop and have it checked out if you notice excessive slack.

xj wheeler

It looks worn out-what. Is this assessment from taking it apart or did he just look at it? Is there a problem with it functioning? I'd get a second opinion, sounds like he's looking for stuff to replace and not the cheap stuff. If your going to use this mechanic, be skeptical, ask questions. Make him show you the crack in the manifold and the other problems. Also if you do replace the manifold, I wouldn't go with a junkyard part because all 4.0l factory manifolds are proned to cracking.

waltermitty

Didn't know that about the factory manifolds...

tnmedic

where at in nashvegas are you? Holy cow that mechanic sounds like a shady character. Check your transfer case by putting it in 4 wheel drive and drive it forward, if it pops and sounds like the chain is slipping then it needs to be looked at, if not, move on and don't look back. I live out in Kingston Springs and if I have to use a mechanic I use one over in White Bluff that is reasonable or I go to a guy down in Lyles over in Hickman county that worked on the fire engines at the volunteer dept I was with, still fairly reasonable as well. Exhaust mani you can do it yourself or buy the part and take it to an exhaust shop outside of metro, you will find better prices usually. Steering box has an adjustment spot on the top of the box near where the hoses come into the box, and if you have to replace it the hard part is usually the steering arm getting it off but they do make pullers for that I believe, if I didn't work two jobs and have a wife and baby that like me on my days off I would help you out. Hope that helps out some, the mechanic in white bluff is Brad's Automotive or Taylor's Automotive down in Hickman county off of Hwy 100, I don't have their numbers right off the top of my head.

Jonathan Goss

The transfer case makes some noise and it pops when I put it into 4H but it doesn't sound really bad or grind when engaging it. The only reason I'm considering doing it is because my living expenses are practically zero right now and it's a prime opportunity to make the necessary repairs I need to keep the thing in great running condition before I get another apartment and lose the ability to save money like crazy. So given that cars don't heal like humans, this might be my only chance to really fix what will probably only get worse. Still, I am put off by the fact that he said it would cost $850 minimum and he hadn't even looked inside it yet and wouldn't know whether the chain needed replacing or not until he did. He did drive it around and offer to ride with me while I drove it, though, so he's at least accomodating to potential customers.

I felt bad in a way because the cheaper things that are wrong (the cracked exhaust manifold--which had been replaced in '07--and the steering gear/box) are things my friends know how to do and have volunteered to help me out on. So the less expensive fixes I would be more inclined to hire the guy for are the very ones I won't be using because I can do it on the cheap and LEARN FROM THOSE AROUND ME.

Thank you, TNMedic, for the recommends! I used to live in Franklin but am currently residing in Brentwood so that's quite a drive but not an unrealistic one. The manifold and steering box seem like fixes I would want someone else to do anyway since I'm sure transmission shops charge more for work that doesn't typically involve transmissions (I don't think, anyway).

I had been told that the hardest parts about the manifold are getting it precisely lined up and dealing with siezed bolts. As always, thanks to everyone for chiming in. I am always open to ANY advice someone has.

*SUPPLEMENTAL: What do you guys recommend as far as a new steering box? I found a Duralast at Autozone for $145 and a Fenco at Advance Auto Parts for $150 (after core charges). Any hints as to brand?

Jonathan Goss

Has anyone tried the APN exhaust manifold for their '97 XJ's? Is there anything I need to know before choosing that one? Also, how common is it for the bolts to snap off?