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Need help removing fuse box.

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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Year: 1988
Engine: 4.0L
Default Need help removing fuse box.

I found the source of the floorboard rot in my 1988 MJ and it's at the fuse box. Rain was coming in under the hood, and running down the outside of the firewall. It would run around the slave cylinder mounting bracket and accumulate on the top of the fusebox wiring harness. It would then just leak into the car... nice...

SO, I need to take the fuse box out, but see no easy way of unplugging the loom from the back of the fuse box. Is this possible to do? If so, how?

On a similar note, is there a gasket or something that should be there? Thanks.

Clarke


Last edited by clarkerussell; Jul 21, 2009 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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From: Highlands Ranch Co.
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info?
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by radio flyer
info?
Sorry, I updated it.. It's a 1988 4x4 MJ.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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There should be a pair of torx head bolts on two corners of the fuse block. Remove them and as i recall you will be able to wiggle it off. Somebody correct me if im wrong-I'm old, it's allowed. There is what i call gorilla snot on the contact area between the mating surfaces. You can buy it at electrical supply shops. It is black and very sticky, i dont advise using reg. RTV--room temp. vulcanizing sealer because the acrid smell that comes off of it as it dries corrodes electrical contacts. You might get away with siliconized caulking in a pinch
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by radio flyer
There should be a pair of torx head bolts on two corners of the fuse block. Remove them and as i recall you will be able to wiggle it off. Somebody correct me if im wrong-I'm old, it's allowed. There is what i call gorilla snot on the contact area between the mating surfaces. You can buy it at electrical supply shops. It is black and very sticky, i dont advise using reg. RTV--room temp. vulcanizing sealer because the acrid smell that comes off of it as it dries corrodes electrical contacts. You might get away with siliconized caulking in a pinch
Interesting... I did see the Torx heads, but thought you had to disconnect from the engine bay side first. I'll try again tomorrow.

Also, is the "snot" used to make the firewall penetration waterproof, or just keep the electrical connections water tight? Thanks.

Clarke
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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I believe you are right, you may have to loosen the brake booster to gain access to the bolt in the engine bay! The snot is for water proofing the block, and the terms. have their own protection. Hope this helps
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