Crown Automotive normally uses Jeep OEM part numbers as their own part numbers.
Lists a 94-96 117 amp. Crown p/n 56026811
Alternator fit for the same type/line of alternators is often because of alternator mounting, case size and connector differences.
There is a Crown alternator that's list to be compatible with 96 ... I'm not sure of the difference, perhaps your mounting is different from a 97 and 98 that uses post terminals for the regulator connection.
--- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Crown-56026811-fits-94-96-Jeep-Cherokee-4-0L-L6-/261759177245?hash=item3cf210121d&vxp=mtr
--- http://www.ebay.com/itm/56026811-Alternator-NEW-OEM-/171831051810?hash=item2801edc622&vxp=mtr
eBay link shows 2.5L and 4.0 L ... I would double check to determine this alternator fits a 4.0 LHD and there is no difference between a 2.5L and 4.0L alternator.
If your vehicle came from the factory with the 117 amp option, stock cabling is minimal. I upgraded mine to 1/0 and there is better overall output and charging even when using a 90 amp alternator. To obtain optimal alternator output you usually need to upgrade the cables from the alternator and going to the battery.
ebay does list some aftermarket alternators and upgrades to be compatible with 96, 97 and 98. If your 96 uses the same alternator mounting, case size and connectors as a 97 then it may be a warranty issue. Some aftermarkets manufactures won't list and warrant oe replacements unless it replaces a standard oem part for a specific year make & model vehicle.
I would locate the part number on your current alternator. Determine if it's 117/120 amp and then cross-reference.
Anytime you upgrade the amperage of the alt you also have to upgrade the wiring also, like with a kit from kellyswipe.com a member here. I used his kit with my new amp and his is a top quality kit as far as quality and assembly go. This is a must have item as the stock setup was marginal even with the small alt.
The correct address is www.kelleyswip.com. I have 5-90's full cable set on my 87. Price and quality can't be beat. Good point Fred about upgrading cables along with the alternator.
This is a good price for a hi output (160 amp) alternator- drop in/plug and play. My local shop charges a little more than that to rewind an alternator to hi output. $89
Not yet. I'm not quite ready to get anything done. My wife got laid off in May. She has since found a new job but dosen't get her first pay check until next week. So money is tight at the current moment. I actually picked up a second job at an automotive parts store to help supliment. My employee discount price for a reman 136 amp Alt is around $80. Might go that route after all. I'm running a winch and aux lighting, plus I have been toying around with the idea of replacing the amnual fan with another electric one.
Not yet. I'm not quite ready to get anything done. My wife got laid off in May. She has since found a new job but dosen't get her first pay check until next week. So money is tight at the current moment. I actually picked up a second job at an automotive parts store to help supliment. My employee discount price for a reman 136 amp Alt is around $80. Might go that route after all. I'm running a winch and aux lighting, plus I have been toying around with the idea of replacing the amnual fan with another electric one.
Can you share the part and or stock number of the reman 136 amp alternator for the 1996 XJ?
This is a good price for a hi output (160 amp) alternator- drop in/plug and play. My local shop charges a little more than that to rewind an alternator to hi output. $89
99+ uses a plug connector for the field terminals. Previous years Denso use post connectors.
I once purchased a new ACDelco Denso reman with lifetime warranty from an auto parts store. It lasted around ~20,000 miles. core was only 7 dollars.
Whereas I've used factory OEMs still working well after 150,000 miles.
If you purchase an aftermarket new or reman. I would look for a lifetime warranty.
90 - 120 amps OE alts use a Denso small case whereas 136 (or 130) + use a Denso large case. Basically the same alternator with slightly larger stator, rotor and rectifier.
Finally got it all done. Went with the 136A ZJ Alt. Drove her into work this morning without issue... so thats good. She had been really slow to start prior to the upgrade. I had priviously made my own battery cables. I don't think I was getting sufficient ground so I re-did them and she pops off great now. Only thing is that the volt gauge still drops lower than I would think it should with the new Alt when I turn on the blower motor. I had to replace the blower motor switch connector because it had melted. I also replaced the blower motor switch and resistor at the same time.
I had to replace the blower motor switch connector because it had melted.
This is an indicator that the Blower Motor might be drawing too many Amps and ready to quit. There is usually a reason why switches melt in the first place. If the new switch is getting hot to the touch, you may still have an issue and this would explain the excessive drop in the charging system when it is on.
The voltage gauge is on a shared circuit, and when you turn on blower motor the gauge will show a drop 1-2 volts but system voltage will still be fine. You can fix it by running a dedicated wire to the gauge, bit of a hassle but its the only way to know for sure
This is an indicator that the Blower Motor might be drawing too many Amps and ready to quit. There is usually a reason why switches melt in the first place. If the new switch is getting hot to the touch, you may still have an issue and this would explain the excessive drop in the charging system when it is on.
There was a bad contact on the switch. So I thought that's what caused the melting, but mabye the motor caused the bad contact on the switch. I'll be replacing the blower motor now for sure. Thanks.
