hmm........

Well like I said, once it gets going it runs fine, pump is nice and loud, it also has a new strainer and filter on it already, you would think if it was the filter, it would run poor no matter what..........

it just needs starting fluid to make it crank over and fire

before it was real slow to start, you almost had to pump the gas to get it to start and stay running at first, and it has poor throttle response as well......

The only thing i did today besides put the new crank sensor on was poor some heet in the tank (water remover) we always get crap fuel down here and I do it once a month or so......

 

well as long as you had the proper amount of fuel in there that should hurt anything... my diesel does this... its a bad injector... leaks and isnt able to build pressure in the fuel rail... have to use startin fluid to start it in the mornings if i dont plug it in... but then runs and start fine the rest of the day but has a hard start...but i dont think thats your problem... mines a whole nother ball game... i think anyways... lol i would check you fuel pressure first from the pump... that would tell you everything... i took mine to a mech and he pluged theres up right fast and told me... didnt charge me anything either... i would try that first though... Deff a fuel issue though...

 

how would I test the pump for pressure?

 

there should be somewhere you can plug in a fuel pressure guage into... in the fuel system in the engine bay... plugging a guage directily up to it wont work... it has to be inline with it hooked up and running as it would just build pressure if it has nowhere to go... the fitting will like like something for the AC kinda... a screw on fitting more then likely... if cant find one then you would need a T to splice in to the fuel hose and run a guage from that...

 

I would hook a fuel pressure gauge in the line near the TB. Observe the reading while idling, and at 1,000RPMs, and back at idle. Put a clamp on fuel return line to restrict flow. Turn off ign. and observe gauge. Does Pressure drop? Disconnect return line clamp while watching gauge. Does pressure drop? Try to isolate pressure loss. What condition of fuel line? Rubber hose? Clamps?

 

yah no place to plug in.....i am thinkin its the regulator it makes sense:

When it has not been ran in a while, its a pain to start,(pressure bleeding off) but once you have driven it around a while it starts fine,

 

I dont have access to a Fuel pressure gauge, or tester, and If I am gonna dump 40.00 bux on one, i would just rather go the extra 30 on the regulator

 

Try clamping off the return line and see what happens.

 

yeah i can see that... found on google... a 94 wrangler with the 4cy guy was getting 20psi with key on and 30psi with engine running... whats coming out seem like 20psi maybe?

 

just like sink faucet on med to full blast....hook a gauge up to it and let me know what you get

 

not the same. that is an MPFI 4 cylinder with a fuel rail.

he needs the pressure readings for a 4 cylinder renault/bendix system with one injector on a throttle body. unfortunately, you really can't "read" this.


in my experience, I would say that you have some throttle body issues and not pump issues. I've spent a decent amount of time on 4cyl's but never experienced this...just long cranks before starting.

generally, replacing the injector has helped, or swapping the entire throttle body.


now, two points I need to make to the OP.

number one: 4 cylinders don't have throttle response. seriously, it's not a performance motor and has no *****, so don't base your throttle response beliefs off of anything else you've ever driven.
number two: Does this thing still DRIVE fine? I have a hard time believing that it does, if it takes starting fluid to get it to start. what I mean is, will it rev all the way to 4,000 rpm? or does it fall on it's own ****? this will be your sole way to tell if its fuel delivery.

pop your intake tube off the throttle body and smell inside it, with key off. turn the key on and off a few times, letting the fuel pump run. now smell it again. does it smell like more gas is in there?

if so, you have a leak-down issue with your injector, and it is your problem. it would cause a no-start issue, as it cannot build enough pressure to spray fuel in fast enough to take your motor from non-combustion to ignition and combustion (from off to on)

hopefully that helps. let me know your answers and I'll help

-Pat

 

ha finally... someone with alittle more knowledge of the jeep 4cy... like i said ive never even seen one i dont think so i can only base what i know off everything else ive ever worked on... its 11pm and im going to bed... goodluck man!

 

When I was test driving it, it drove fine, even tested the 4x4 in some soft sand and it pulled good, rev'd up fine with no issuses, get it home, turn it off, and it will not start again, have to spray fluid in it to get it to start, once its running, its running good (in the driveway at least) I tried smelling in there with the key on and off and it smells the same

 

does it smell high in octane?

I'd just get an injector, that should fix the problem, but not guaranteed

 

Well Today I drove the wifes Prelude and beat up on all the local import kids...But anywayz back to the jeep. I have a 91 Eagle talon AWD turbo that I have been building for about 3 years now, I took all the stock fuel system out and added a fuel cell and Aeromotive A1000 pump with -10 feed and -8 return
(car makes 602 at the wheels on C-16) and today I found the stock OEM talon pump, which is good for about 260 wheel horse power, and IT STILL WORKS!!!!

So Tomorrow I have the day off and I am gonna throw that one in there some how and cancel out whether or not its the pump...Hey its not gonna cost me a thing right? Might as well...if it works, then I got me a pump for free that will never have a problem flowing enough pressure.....