XJsimerly

Hello all, first post, and Im already asking for help. jeez. Been a lurker for a bit now, so I finally decided to jump on in.

Heres my short list.
1. 4wd does not engage. Its an 89, so Im pretty certain that the vacuum actuator is at fault. Im either going to A) stack washers to keep the axle engaged, like the later dana 30's, or B) weld that sucker(diff) and make my own 'posi-lok' setup. the main question here is if I weld the diff, will I be able to turn uninhibited with axle discoed at the vacuum actuator?

2. I have guage lights so long as My Brights arent on. As soon as I pull my selector back, the guage lights go dark. HVAC controls, shift selector, the whole shebang. The brights do work though.

3. My HVAC only comes through the defrost vents. Im certain that it is a vacuum line somewhere, but I havent been able to find a diagram saying where said vacuum line is. Pictures, directions, gps coordinates, whatever... Anything would help at this point.

4. What is the best way to remove carpet without removing front seats and console? I have all of my rear carpet removed, up to the back of my front seats, and most of it from the front floorboard. I will remove the seats and console if needed, but Im trying to avoid it. I plan on bedlining almost everything in the jeep, for ease of cleaning, and At this point in time, My rear hatch window has exited, stage left.

5. Bumper options. My bumper looks like a midget with a chainsaw was having a bad day. I was havign a hard time clearing small things with stock tires, so I removed the offending pieces, via a grinder and a couple of cutting wheels. The only parts remaining are the bolted portions and the center portion. Im looking mostly for blueprints/ schematics for building my own. I can weld, so Im looking to save money.

6. Oil leak, presumably from rear main seal. I just look at it as my jeep marking its territory.

again, I hope Im not asking too much, But Im at work and wasting time either way

90xjmark

Since you are having vent issues as well I would try to find the vacuum leak before anything. Dash light issue may try replacing your headlight switch, its not real fun but I have been told that they tend to cause more problems than you would think. I would not reccomend weldign the front.............just my 0.02
Good luck with this and keep us al posted

XJsimerly

Thanks for the reply, Ive also heard that the headlight switches can cause some pretty mean gremlins. As far as the welding of diffs go, Its just an idea I had been throwing around, wondering if it would work or not.

And with the vacuum leak, on the vacuum disco D30's, is the green line supposed to have suction or no?

XJsimerly

Update, Ive gotten the vacuum problem fixed. from what I hear on jeepsunlimited, jeep/Chrysler made the D30 a solid piece later on in life, So I just permanently fixed the fork into a locked position using washers and the old c clips.

now it just overheats and blows steam from under the driver side intake pan. Looks like its coming from the block, possibly a freeze plug?

BuckB91XJ

XJsimerly. There is a small vacuum bottle located on the passenger side up inside your front bumper. I bet it is either damaged, the vacuum hose is disconnected or the bottle is gone all togther. Look under there and verify the bottle is there, not damaged and the vacuum line is connected. This will give you your front vacuum disco and heater vent controls back.

BuckB91XJ

Even with a front vacuum disco, I don't recommend welding your front diff ever unless you have manual lock out front hubs. You never want to deal with a welded front diff while on the road. Off road only!! if ever.

BuckB91XJ

Losing the dash lights only when selecting the high beams is a new one on me. I''ll have to ponder that one a bit and maybe check out the schematics.

XJsimerly

Thanks a lot buck. Ill look for another vacuum bottle tomorrow. Im heading to the local you pull it yard to finish up a closed to open system swap im in the middle of. Im hoping that'll fix my overheating. So far ive got the new 160 thermostat, new hoses and clamps, my filler neck, and the 91+ heater valve. From my estimation all thats left is an overflow bottle and a replacement thermo housing because i broke mine. :/ Sound about right?

Kamots

Why are you going with a 160 degree thermostat? You will just burn more fuel as it wont get out of closed loop (or is it open loop). Oh and make sure the lower rad hose has the spring or use your old one. Otherwise it will collapse. Good luck.

Travis

BuckB91XJ

XJsimerly, I'm with Kamots on the 160 degree T-stat. The OEM T-stat is 195. I would never go below 180. I have a 180 degree T-stat in my 4.0 and it fixed part of my overheating issue (along with getting a 3 core radiator) but, the heater gets plenty warm in the winter and it hasn't hurt my MPG. 160 seems a bit of a drastic change to me. Get your new cooling system installed and put your stock T-stat or a 180 degree in and see how that works. Then, go from there with further cooling system mods.

BlueXJ

Use the higher temp T-stat and for your lights problem replace the switch and that should solve that delima. It is internal to the switch. That is a GM switch and I had the same problem on an older Chevy I had. Freezeplug rusted out or corroded can be the source of your steam.
Good luck, seems that most all your questions have been answered allbeit piecemeal but answered nonetheless.

BuckB91XJ

I'm a simple minded guy, Blue. I can only answer one question per message.

XJsimerly

ive replaced the needed parts, using the stock thermostat, and the issues seem mostly resolved. It still runs a little hot, but that may also be because the elec aux fan isnt working for some reason, i may end up putting it on a manual switch. The jeep seems to run fine while being driven, just when It sits, the temp guage keeps crawling back up, but when I rev it and sit at about 1500 rps for a few seconds, it starts dropping again.

I also still have the 160 stat in the garage, and would try it a little later possibly. the heater issues are pretty much moot, as It gets driven in the spring/summer primarily anyways, but the fuel economy is an issue.

Another issue Im having as of today (which I will search for) is my tranny seems like Its not catching. It feels like my camaro when I had a stall converter. The jeep wont make any kind of attempt at moving unless I hit about 2750-3000 rpms in any gear, ive tried 1-2, and 3, but when in 3, the jeep has to run thru 1-2, and drive is the same. Reverse works like a champ, but the forward motion kind of bothers me.

This isnt a 'has to be fixed today' issue, the jeep is just my weekend trail rig, and Ive just now had the money to get it running for the spring.

Any help is appreciated!

Kamots

If your jeep is the '89 model, its the same as mine. Closed cooling system. I honestly can say this is the first one for me, and will be the last if i have any say...lol. You have to raise the rear end, or park on incline with butt up. And burp it thru the temp gauge sensor. Follow the valve cover to the back drivers side and it will have one little wire with cap on it. Do not open hot or even warm. It WILL shoot out with CO2 like pressure...lol. I learned the hard way. Make sure to have your heat on so the heater core does its thing. Just fill system thru upper rad hose, make a seal on it with your hand and blow thru as well to help expel bubbles. Once good fluid comes out, put temp sensor back in an finish topping off. Your done.

The aux electric fans tend do just that when you need them...lol. I still need to wire mine to manual switch. Also check your thermal fan clutch. I can assure you that the 160 thermostat is just a band-aid. Wont fix anything. But will hurt MPG.

Cant help with the tranny other than mention to check linkage? Their are many smart guys on here that will chime in soon im sure.

Travis

XJsimerly

Awesome. Thanks for the info man. The only thing is ive already switched my setup to an open system. Much more hassle-free. Im a big fan of just pouring more coolant in as the pump moves it around. The stock stat with a new gasket seems to be cooling ok for now, but its a jeep, so problems come all at once or not at all. Its like a mac- they dont get viruses, they either work well, or dont work at all.

Ive spoken with a couple of mechanics i trust, and have heard the issue could be anything from a tranny cooler line clogged, the torque converter, all the way up to the tranny itself. If all else faios, im very well acquainted with the local pull-a-part. So how big of a pain is it to replace a tranny in a cherokee?