Is it my driveshaft?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is it my driveshaft?
So I am driving back from offroading with friends and when I think I am in 2wd, I come to a stop and give it gas but it's like I am in neutral. So I put it in P and then D and it goes but it's tight driving and squirley. If I give it gas it nearly takes the steering wheel out of my hand in either direction. I also notice at 55 to 60 mph something is really loud. When at a stop there isn't anything loud but when I get to that speed it gets loud. Now I am not having any vibration issues (my rear view mirror isn't shaking) and I am not dealing with DW - not like that would be loud but want to rule out that if it comes up. I come to a stop and decide to put it into 4H. Now the loudness isn't quite as loud, the steering wheel is being jerked out of my hands and it seems to be driving better. I drove it 60 miles like this today on the way home. It did not make any noises or loud sounds for that same 60 miles driving to the trail.
Side note - I did had my axles regeared and they already had lunchbox lockers. I had a shop install the gears and today I just went over the 500 mile break-in that they suggested. I have been noticing that on a cold start I will back it off the driveway and then drive forward and it seems like the lockers are engaged but after a few minutes it goes back to normal. It does this on every start up.
I have not checked to make sure my 2wd is 2wd and not 4H. I haven't checked to see if anything is loose either.
Side note - I did had my axles regeared and they already had lunchbox lockers. I had a shop install the gears and today I just went over the 500 mile break-in that they suggested. I have been noticing that on a cold start I will back it off the driveway and then drive forward and it seems like the lockers are engaged but after a few minutes it goes back to normal. It does this on every start up.
I have not checked to make sure my 2wd is 2wd and not 4H. I haven't checked to see if anything is loose either.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 3
Bro, do not drive on pavement with 4H.
There are kind of only two driveshaft “problems”, one is vibration, and the other is your driveshaft is completely broken, in which case, you’re not going anywhere (on that particular axle at least.)
The driveshaft itself really is not a magical/complicated part. It is just a long piece of metal that turns, and connects your transfer case to your wheels. The rest of it (U-Joints, Splines, etc.) are just so that it can keep turning even when your suspension travel changes. There’s not a lot that can go wrong there, and nothing you describe indicates it’s a driveshaft issue. Death-wobble has absolutely nothing to do with your driveshaft, lockers, transfer case, 4WD, or anything else you mention. Death-wobble is an issue with steering components.
I think you need to watch some YouTube videos about what exactly lockers are, and how they work (how they engage, how they disengage, how they change your steering characteristics when you have them in the front, what they sound like when they load/unload, etc.)
Then do the same with transfer cases, and finally, differentials.
Once you have that knowledge and info, you’ll have a way better understanding of drive train mechanics, and you’ll probably figure out what the problem is just by driving it for a bit. But, until you understand how all of those things work together, it’s kind of hard to even try to help. But trust me man, you’ll want to learn that stuff, it will only make you smarter and a better 4-wheeler.
It sounds like you were in 4WD when you thought that you were in 2WD. Either your transfer case linkage is messed up, or you never actually got out of 2WD (there is a particular way that you need to switch between the two, and you do it while slowly rolling usually.) The wheel being ripped out of your hands will be explained when you learn about how your front differential works (when you are turning, your outside wheel needs to travel farther than the inside wheel of the turn, locking your diff in 4WD on pavement just binds your transfer case, this is why 4WD is for slippery conditions and not pavement), how lockers work, etc.
It’s not that we can’t help you, it’s that what you are describing as a problem is actually exactly how things are supposed to work, and I’m thinking that if you understood how they all worked, you’d probably be able to figure it out much better than anyone on the internet could. There is a reason that people usually don’t put lockers on the front axle of a street rig.
If you “haven’t checked to see if 4WD is actually 2WD” and “haven’t checked to see if anything is loose either,” why are you even here man? What is it that you think that we can do for you?
There are kind of only two driveshaft “problems”, one is vibration, and the other is your driveshaft is completely broken, in which case, you’re not going anywhere (on that particular axle at least.)
The driveshaft itself really is not a magical/complicated part. It is just a long piece of metal that turns, and connects your transfer case to your wheels. The rest of it (U-Joints, Splines, etc.) are just so that it can keep turning even when your suspension travel changes. There’s not a lot that can go wrong there, and nothing you describe indicates it’s a driveshaft issue. Death-wobble has absolutely nothing to do with your driveshaft, lockers, transfer case, 4WD, or anything else you mention. Death-wobble is an issue with steering components.
I think you need to watch some YouTube videos about what exactly lockers are, and how they work (how they engage, how they disengage, how they change your steering characteristics when you have them in the front, what they sound like when they load/unload, etc.)
Then do the same with transfer cases, and finally, differentials.
Once you have that knowledge and info, you’ll have a way better understanding of drive train mechanics, and you’ll probably figure out what the problem is just by driving it for a bit. But, until you understand how all of those things work together, it’s kind of hard to even try to help. But trust me man, you’ll want to learn that stuff, it will only make you smarter and a better 4-wheeler.
It sounds like you were in 4WD when you thought that you were in 2WD. Either your transfer case linkage is messed up, or you never actually got out of 2WD (there is a particular way that you need to switch between the two, and you do it while slowly rolling usually.) The wheel being ripped out of your hands will be explained when you learn about how your front differential works (when you are turning, your outside wheel needs to travel farther than the inside wheel of the turn, locking your diff in 4WD on pavement just binds your transfer case, this is why 4WD is for slippery conditions and not pavement), how lockers work, etc.
It’s not that we can’t help you, it’s that what you are describing as a problem is actually exactly how things are supposed to work, and I’m thinking that if you understood how they all worked, you’d probably be able to figure it out much better than anyone on the internet could. There is a reason that people usually don’t put lockers on the front axle of a street rig.
If you “haven’t checked to see if 4WD is actually 2WD” and “haven’t checked to see if anything is loose either,” why are you even here man? What is it that you think that we can do for you?
Last edited by Mittnz; Jan 4, 2026 at 06:25 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 43
Likes: 9
From: Toledo, WA
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hi xjallseasons, I'll try to help.
Lunchbox lockers will only unlock under no load.
It sounds like what's happening is this:
In 4wd your front driveshaft is being turned by the tcase and synced up with the wheels, allowing it to unlock and drive correctly.
In 2wd, the force from the wheels has to turn the diff, the diff has to turn the pinion, driveshaft, double cardigan, front output shaft, and chain.
I'm guessing the rotating resistance of this whole assembly is keeping tension on the diff and not allowing it to unlock in 2wd.
By changing to lower gears the driveshaft has to spin faster relative to the wheels, which will cause the tension on the diff to be greater if the front rotating assembly has resistance.
My suggestion: put it in 2wd and jack the front end up. See if it's difficult to turn the front driveshaft (and axle with it) by hand. I'd start by greasing the front driveshaft u-joints, cleaning brakes, putting fresh 10w30 in the NP231 and getting the whole front rotating assembly to turn freely.
Even with everything spinning freely, the rotational inertia of the front output shaft, driveshaft, and pinion will still put forces on the diff during acceleration and deceleration, so the binding won't go away completely.
My personal preference (I agree with Mittnz here) is no lunchbox in the front.
Lunchbox lockers will only unlock under no load.
It sounds like what's happening is this:
In 4wd your front driveshaft is being turned by the tcase and synced up with the wheels, allowing it to unlock and drive correctly.
In 2wd, the force from the wheels has to turn the diff, the diff has to turn the pinion, driveshaft, double cardigan, front output shaft, and chain.
I'm guessing the rotating resistance of this whole assembly is keeping tension on the diff and not allowing it to unlock in 2wd.
By changing to lower gears the driveshaft has to spin faster relative to the wheels, which will cause the tension on the diff to be greater if the front rotating assembly has resistance.
My suggestion: put it in 2wd and jack the front end up. See if it's difficult to turn the front driveshaft (and axle with it) by hand. I'd start by greasing the front driveshaft u-joints, cleaning brakes, putting fresh 10w30 in the NP231 and getting the whole front rotating assembly to turn freely.
Even with everything spinning freely, the rotational inertia of the front output shaft, driveshaft, and pinion will still put forces on the diff during acceleration and deceleration, so the binding won't go away completely.
My personal preference (I agree with Mittnz here) is no lunchbox in the front.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Bro, do not drive on pavement with 4H.
There are kind of only two driveshaft “problems”, one is vibration, and the other is your driveshaft is completely broken, in which case, you’re not going anywhere (on that particular axle at least.)
The driveshaft itself really is not a magical/complicated part. It is just a long piece of metal that turns, and connects your transfer case to your wheels. The rest of it (U-Joints, Splines, etc.) are just so that it can keep turning even when your suspension travel changes. There’s not a lot that can go wrong there, and nothing you describe indicates it’s a driveshaft issue. Death-wobble has absolutely nothing to do with your driveshaft, lockers, transfer case, 4WD, or anything else you mention. Death-wobble is an issue with steering components.
I think you need to watch some YouTube videos about what exactly lockers are, and how they work (how they engage, how they disengage, how they change your steering characteristics when you have them in the front, what they sound like when they load/unload, etc.)
Then do the same with transfer cases, and finally, differentials.
Once you have that knowledge and info, you’ll have a way better understanding of drive train mechanics, and you’ll probably figure out what the problem is just by driving it for a bit. But, until you understand how all of those things work together, it’s kind of hard to even try to help. But trust me man, you’ll want to learn that stuff, it will only make you smarter and a better 4-wheeler.
It sounds like you were in 4WD when you thought that you were in 2WD. Either your transfer case linkage is messed up, or you never actually got out of 2WD (there is a particular way that you need to switch between the two, and you do it while slowly rolling usually.) The wheel being ripped out of your hands will be explained when you learn about how your front differential works (when you are turning, your outside wheel needs to travel farther than the inside wheel of the turn, locking your diff in 4WD on pavement just binds your transfer case, this is why 4WD is for slippery conditions and not pavement), how lockers work, etc.
It’s not that we can’t help you, it’s that what you are describing as a problem is actually exactly how things are supposed to work, and I’m thinking that if you understood how they all worked, you’d probably be able to figure it out much better than anyone on the internet could. There is a reason that people usually don’t put lockers on the front axle of a street rig.
If you “haven’t checked to see if 4WD is actually 2WD” and “haven’t checked to see if anything is loose either,” why are you even here man? What is it that you think that we can do for you?
There are kind of only two driveshaft “problems”, one is vibration, and the other is your driveshaft is completely broken, in which case, you’re not going anywhere (on that particular axle at least.)
The driveshaft itself really is not a magical/complicated part. It is just a long piece of metal that turns, and connects your transfer case to your wheels. The rest of it (U-Joints, Splines, etc.) are just so that it can keep turning even when your suspension travel changes. There’s not a lot that can go wrong there, and nothing you describe indicates it’s a driveshaft issue. Death-wobble has absolutely nothing to do with your driveshaft, lockers, transfer case, 4WD, or anything else you mention. Death-wobble is an issue with steering components.
I think you need to watch some YouTube videos about what exactly lockers are, and how they work (how they engage, how they disengage, how they change your steering characteristics when you have them in the front, what they sound like when they load/unload, etc.)
Then do the same with transfer cases, and finally, differentials.
Once you have that knowledge and info, you’ll have a way better understanding of drive train mechanics, and you’ll probably figure out what the problem is just by driving it for a bit. But, until you understand how all of those things work together, it’s kind of hard to even try to help. But trust me man, you’ll want to learn that stuff, it will only make you smarter and a better 4-wheeler.
It sounds like you were in 4WD when you thought that you were in 2WD. Either your transfer case linkage is messed up, or you never actually got out of 2WD (there is a particular way that you need to switch between the two, and you do it while slowly rolling usually.) The wheel being ripped out of your hands will be explained when you learn about how your front differential works (when you are turning, your outside wheel needs to travel farther than the inside wheel of the turn, locking your diff in 4WD on pavement just binds your transfer case, this is why 4WD is for slippery conditions and not pavement), how lockers work, etc.
It’s not that we can’t help you, it’s that what you are describing as a problem is actually exactly how things are supposed to work, and I’m thinking that if you understood how they all worked, you’d probably be able to figure it out much better than anyone on the internet could. There is a reason that people usually don’t put lockers on the front axle of a street rig.
If you “haven’t checked to see if 4WD is actually 2WD” and “haven’t checked to see if anything is loose either,” why are you even here man? What is it that you think that we can do for you?
I understand everything you said. I guess it would be a lot easier if I gave you the full details of my XJ but I thought there was enough info without a Pirate4x4 bashing. Two summers ago the trans decided to not work as well, so I had it replaced. Knowing that 33's on stock components can eventually ruin everything else. The lunch box lockers were easy and not difficult to install. I got rid of the DW issues and fixed just about everything else, until the next problem.
In the beginning I was using this as a rock crawler but recently trying to restore it back to stock with a lot of mods. So I bought gears and knew I had to rebuild my TC. I had the gears installed and I rebuilt the TC with a new 6 pinion planetary gear. I put it all back together along with a new TC case linkage.
Now everything is back together. I have driven it around town as instructed by the gear installers as well as done some off-roading and have not had any issues. So driving it home I noticed the loud sounds as this... when starting from a dead stop and going through the gears everything was smooth with no sounds. At 45 to 60 is where the loudness kicked in. If I gave it more fuel, it would speed up and be quiet until I let off the gas and got back to the speeds I mentioned earlier. I got home after a long and loud drive.
This morning, I jacked it up completely off the ground and put it into 4h and in gear, then 4l and then back to 2wd. Once I put it into 2 it all kind of went back to normal, but I did not drive it anywhere.
I am needing to take it in to the gear installers since my break-in is complete. I will ask them about the lunchbox up front, but I have never had any issues until now and they did not mention this is a bad idea, you need to have a selectable locker instead.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hi xjallseasons, I'll try to help.
Lunchbox lockers will only unlock under no load.
It sounds like what's happening is this:
In 4wd your front driveshaft is being turned by the tcase and synced up with the wheels, allowing it to unlock and drive correctly.
In 2wd, the force from the wheels has to turn the diff, the diff has to turn the pinion, driveshaft, double cardigan, front output shaft, and chain.
I'm guessing the rotating resistance of this whole assembly is keeping tension on the diff and not allowing it to unlock in 2wd.
By changing to lower gears the driveshaft has to spin faster relative to the wheels, which will cause the tension on the diff to be greater if the front rotating assembly has resistance.
My suggestion: put it in 2wd and jack the front end up. See if it's difficult to turn the front driveshaft (and axle with it) by hand. I'd start by greasing the front driveshaft u-joints, cleaning brakes, putting fresh 10w30 in the NP231 and getting the whole front rotating assembly to turn freely.
Even with everything spinning freely, the rotational inertia of the front output shaft, driveshaft, and pinion will still put forces on the diff during acceleration and deceleration, so the binding won't go away completely.
My personal preference (I agree with Mittnz here) is no lunchbox in the front.
Lunchbox lockers will only unlock under no load.
It sounds like what's happening is this:
In 4wd your front driveshaft is being turned by the tcase and synced up with the wheels, allowing it to unlock and drive correctly.
In 2wd, the force from the wheels has to turn the diff, the diff has to turn the pinion, driveshaft, double cardigan, front output shaft, and chain.
I'm guessing the rotating resistance of this whole assembly is keeping tension on the diff and not allowing it to unlock in 2wd.
By changing to lower gears the driveshaft has to spin faster relative to the wheels, which will cause the tension on the diff to be greater if the front rotating assembly has resistance.
My suggestion: put it in 2wd and jack the front end up. See if it's difficult to turn the front driveshaft (and axle with it) by hand. I'd start by greasing the front driveshaft u-joints, cleaning brakes, putting fresh 10w30 in the NP231 and getting the whole front rotating assembly to turn freely.
Even with everything spinning freely, the rotational inertia of the front output shaft, driveshaft, and pinion will still put forces on the diff during acceleration and deceleration, so the binding won't go away completely.
My personal preference (I agree with Mittnz here) is no lunchbox in the front.
This morning, I jacked it up completely off the ground and put it into 4h and in gear, then 4l and then back to 2wd. Once I put it into 2 it all kind of went back to normal, but I did not drive it anywhere.
I am needing to take it in to the gear installers since my break-in is complete. I will ask them about the lunchbox up front, but I have never had any issues until now and they did not mention this is a bad idea, you need to have a selectable locker instead.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 3
I have had this Xj for 17 years and until recently I have not had any issues with it. Recently is that it's had issues with the a/c, heater, vacuum, radiator and cooling (I live in Phoenix, AZ so it's HOT a lot of the time) etc. There's enough here to make me want to sell it but why because it's so easy to work on.
I understand everything you said. I guess it would be a lot easier if I gave you the full details of my XJ but I thought there was enough info without a Pirate4x4 bashing. Two summers ago the trans decided to not work as well, so I had it replaced. Knowing that 33's on stock components can eventually ruin everything else. The lunch box lockers were easy and not difficult to install. I got rid of the DW issues and fixed just about everything else, until the next problem.
In the beginning I was using this as a rock crawler but recently trying to restore it back to stock with a lot of mods. So I bought gears and knew I had to rebuild my TC. I had the gears installed and I rebuilt the TC with a new 6 pinion planetary gear. I put it all back together along with a new TC case linkage.
Now everything is back together. I have driven it around town as instructed by the gear installers as well as done some off-roading and have not had any issues. So driving it home I noticed the loud sounds as this... when starting from a dead stop and going through the gears everything was smooth with no sounds. At 45 to 60 is where the loudness kicked in. If I gave it more fuel, it would speed up and be quiet until I let off the gas and got back to the speeds I mentioned earlier. I got home after a long and loud drive.
This morning, I jacked it up completely off the ground and put it into 4h and in gear, then 4l and then back to 2wd. Once I put it into 2 it all kind of went back to normal, but I did not drive it anywhere.
I am needing to take it in to the gear installers since my break-in is complete. I will ask them about the lunchbox up front, but I have never had any issues until now and they did not mention this is a bad idea, you need to have a selectable locker instead.
I understand everything you said. I guess it would be a lot easier if I gave you the full details of my XJ but I thought there was enough info without a Pirate4x4 bashing. Two summers ago the trans decided to not work as well, so I had it replaced. Knowing that 33's on stock components can eventually ruin everything else. The lunch box lockers were easy and not difficult to install. I got rid of the DW issues and fixed just about everything else, until the next problem.
In the beginning I was using this as a rock crawler but recently trying to restore it back to stock with a lot of mods. So I bought gears and knew I had to rebuild my TC. I had the gears installed and I rebuilt the TC with a new 6 pinion planetary gear. I put it all back together along with a new TC case linkage.
Now everything is back together. I have driven it around town as instructed by the gear installers as well as done some off-roading and have not had any issues. So driving it home I noticed the loud sounds as this... when starting from a dead stop and going through the gears everything was smooth with no sounds. At 45 to 60 is where the loudness kicked in. If I gave it more fuel, it would speed up and be quiet until I let off the gas and got back to the speeds I mentioned earlier. I got home after a long and loud drive.
This morning, I jacked it up completely off the ground and put it into 4h and in gear, then 4l and then back to 2wd. Once I put it into 2 it all kind of went back to normal, but I did not drive it anywhere.
I am needing to take it in to the gear installers since my break-in is complete. I will ask them about the lunchbox up front, but I have never had any issues until now and they did not mention this is a bad idea, you need to have a selectable locker instead.
Having your rear axle locked is no problem, because both of those wheels are basically always turning the same speed, they don’t steer. Your front wheels though, they steer, and so you really don’t want them locked, or you will find that it rips the steering wheel out of your hand while it binds your transfer case, when you’re turning in 4WD on pavement with good traction.
IMO, there just isn’t enough of a benefit, to justify the annoyance of front axle lunchbox lockers. They steer weird, ratchet, etc. The guys running lockers up front usually do that on trailered rigs that are like, dedicated crawlers, not on daily drivers.
If you want a cool front locker, check out the PowerTrax Grip Pro, worm drive/helical locker. Super smooth on the street, but the same locked diff crawling you’re looking for.
To answer your “is it my driveshaft” question, it could be? But, my point above was just that, it’s much easier for YOU to answer that. When you “gave it gas the noise increased,” okay, but, what about if you gave it gas in Neutral? If you want to know if the problem is your driveshaft, you need to do things to eliminate the driveshaft and see if the problem persists, you know?
it’s unlikely that a driveshaft that was previously balanced just fine, is now vibrating at speed, with no changes to your suspension angles/geometry. It’s more likely that the rest of the mods/parts you just threw at it, are causing the issue somehow.
Again, you really should do some research on this, because what you are describing as a problem, is actually how lockers work. Please just read a couple of these replies; https://www.reddit.com/r/CherokeeXJ/s/Q0Gu1YB6BD
A lunchbox locker on the front if you don’t understand exactly what that means and how it all works, is kind of dangerous man. If your front wheels lock up mid-turn on the highway, do you have a plan?
And yeah, of course your mechanic didn’t tell you it was a bad idea. You were about to pay him hundreds of dollars for work that you could have done yourself by watching a couple of YouTube videos. Why would he?
Last edited by Mittnz; Jan 5, 2026 at 04:34 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 43
Likes: 9
From: Toledo, WA
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
Sorry but "loud sounds" and "loudness kicked in" are too vague to diagnose.
I was imagining binding pops and tire slip, but your last description makes me think a droning sound from the t-case.
As Mittnz mentioned, trying to reproduce the sounds while isolating things will help a lot.
Just curious, what oil are you running in your t-case? Someone recently had their slip yoke come out and drain the t-case oil leading to noisy operation, especially in low range with the planetary gearset loaded.
I was imagining binding pops and tire slip, but your last description makes me think a droning sound from the t-case.
As Mittnz mentioned, trying to reproduce the sounds while isolating things will help a lot.
Just curious, what oil are you running in your t-case? Someone recently had their slip yoke come out and drain the t-case oil leading to noisy operation, especially in low range with the planetary gearset loaded.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When you say that you haven’t had any problems until now, is this also the first time you’ve had it in 4WD on pavement, since getting that lunchbox locker in the front? I put the locker in the front around the same time I bought it and have never had any problems. I have driven it on payment and not had any problems.
Having your rear axle locked is no problem, because both of those wheels are basically always turning the same speed, they don’t steer. Your front wheels though, they steer, and so you really don’t want them locked, or you will find that it rips the steering wheel out of your hand while it binds your transfer case, when you’re turning in 4WD on pavement with good traction. The steering part of the trip was just side to side movements from giving it gas. In the past I have never had any issues with driving it in 4wd whether on payment or other.
IMO, there just isn’t enough of a benefit, to justify the annoyance of front axle lunchbox lockers. They steer weird, ratchet, etc. The guys running lockers up front usually do that on trailered rigs that are like, dedicated crawlers, not on daily drivers. This isn't a daily driver. Only put 30k miles on it and have had it 16 years.
If you want a cool front locker, check out the PowerTrax Grip Pro, worm drive/helical locker. Super smooth on the street, but the same locked diff crawling you’re looking for. For all I know the front locker could be what you're saying I should buy. I believe they both are PowerTrax.
To answer your “is it my driveshaft” question, it could be? But, my point above was just that, it’s much easier for YOU to answer that. When you “gave it gas the noise increased,” okay, but, what about if you gave it gas in Neutral? If you want to know if the problem is your driveshaft, you need to do things to eliminate the driveshaft and see if the problem persists, you know? I know it isn't my driveshaft after writing the post. As I got to thinking about it and checking under it the next day. I did notice after I put it on jacks and putting in gear in 2wd that it was still engaged in 4wd even though the light wasn't on for 4wd. These new gears have changed what is inside that d30.
it’s unlikely that a driveshaft that was previously balanced just fine, is now vibrating at speed, with no changes to your suspension angles/geometry. It’s more likely that the rest of the mods/parts you just threw at it, are causing the issue somehow. I did my research and got what I needed to make this happen right. If anything is wrong it comes from the shop that did the work. They had to put in a new carrier and other than new gears that was all that was done.
Again, you really should do some research on this, because what you are describing as a problem, is actually how lockers work. Please just read a couple of these replies; https://www.reddit.com/r/CherokeeXJ/s/Q0Gu1YB6BD
A lunchbox locker on the front if you don’t understand exactly what that means and how it all works, is kind of dangerous man. If your front wheels lock up mid-turn on the highway, do you have a plan?
And yeah, of course your mechanic didn’t tell you it was a bad idea. You were about to pay him hundreds of dollars for work that you could have done yourself by watching a couple of YouTube videos. Why would he?
Having your rear axle locked is no problem, because both of those wheels are basically always turning the same speed, they don’t steer. Your front wheels though, they steer, and so you really don’t want them locked, or you will find that it rips the steering wheel out of your hand while it binds your transfer case, when you’re turning in 4WD on pavement with good traction. The steering part of the trip was just side to side movements from giving it gas. In the past I have never had any issues with driving it in 4wd whether on payment or other.
IMO, there just isn’t enough of a benefit, to justify the annoyance of front axle lunchbox lockers. They steer weird, ratchet, etc. The guys running lockers up front usually do that on trailered rigs that are like, dedicated crawlers, not on daily drivers. This isn't a daily driver. Only put 30k miles on it and have had it 16 years.
If you want a cool front locker, check out the PowerTrax Grip Pro, worm drive/helical locker. Super smooth on the street, but the same locked diff crawling you’re looking for. For all I know the front locker could be what you're saying I should buy. I believe they both are PowerTrax.
To answer your “is it my driveshaft” question, it could be? But, my point above was just that, it’s much easier for YOU to answer that. When you “gave it gas the noise increased,” okay, but, what about if you gave it gas in Neutral? If you want to know if the problem is your driveshaft, you need to do things to eliminate the driveshaft and see if the problem persists, you know? I know it isn't my driveshaft after writing the post. As I got to thinking about it and checking under it the next day. I did notice after I put it on jacks and putting in gear in 2wd that it was still engaged in 4wd even though the light wasn't on for 4wd. These new gears have changed what is inside that d30.
it’s unlikely that a driveshaft that was previously balanced just fine, is now vibrating at speed, with no changes to your suspension angles/geometry. It’s more likely that the rest of the mods/parts you just threw at it, are causing the issue somehow. I did my research and got what I needed to make this happen right. If anything is wrong it comes from the shop that did the work. They had to put in a new carrier and other than new gears that was all that was done.
Again, you really should do some research on this, because what you are describing as a problem, is actually how lockers work. Please just read a couple of these replies; https://www.reddit.com/r/CherokeeXJ/s/Q0Gu1YB6BD
A lunchbox locker on the front if you don’t understand exactly what that means and how it all works, is kind of dangerous man. If your front wheels lock up mid-turn on the highway, do you have a plan?
And yeah, of course your mechanic didn’t tell you it was a bad idea. You were about to pay him hundreds of dollars for work that you could have done yourself by watching a couple of YouTube videos. Why would he?
Junior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 43
Likes: 9
From: Toledo, WA
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
What are the chances you could share a video of it happening? And what oil is your t-case running?
I really do want to understand this issue, we just need more information.
I really do want to understand this issue, we just need more information.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 335
Likes: 87
From: Pittsburgh
Year: 1999, 1996X3, 1997
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The driveshaft itself really is not a magical/complicated part. It is just a long piece of metal that turns, and connects your transfer case to your wheels. The rest of it (U-Joints, Splines, etc.) are just so that it can keep turning even when your suspension travel changes. There’s not a lot that can go wrong there, and nothing you describe indicates it’s a driveshaft issue. Death-wobble has absolutely nothing to do with your driveshaft, lockers, transfer case, 4WD, or anything else you mention. Death-wobble is an issue with steering components.
Last edited by Veeb0rg; Jan 13, 2026 at 06:16 PM. Reason: removed quotes spam links
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hi xjallseasons, I'll try to help.
Lunchbox lockers will only unlock under no load.
It sounds like what's happening is this:
In 4wd your front driveshaft is being turned by the tcase and synced up with the wheels, allowing it to unlock and drive correctly.
In 2wd, the force from the wheels has to turn the diff, the diff has to turn the pinion, driveshaft, double cardigan, front output shaft, and chain.
I'm guessing the rotating resistance of this whole assembly is keeping tension on the diff and not allowing it to unlock in 2wd.
By changing to lower gears the driveshaft has to spin faster relative to the wheels, which will cause the tension on the diff to be greater if the front rotating assembly has resistance.
My suggestion: put it in 2wd and jack the front end up. See if it's difficult to turn the front driveshaft (and axle with it) by hand. I'd start by greasing the front driveshaft u-joints, cleaning brakes, putting fresh 10w30 in the NP231 and getting the whole front rotating assembly to turn freely.
Even with everything spinning freely, the rotational inertia of the front output shaft, driveshaft, and pinion will still put forces on the diff during acceleration and deceleration, so the binding won't go away completely.
My personal preference (I agree with Mittnz here) is no lunchbox in the front.
Lunchbox lockers will only unlock under no load.
It sounds like what's happening is this:
In 4wd your front driveshaft is being turned by the tcase and synced up with the wheels, allowing it to unlock and drive correctly.
In 2wd, the force from the wheels has to turn the diff, the diff has to turn the pinion, driveshaft, double cardigan, front output shaft, and chain.
I'm guessing the rotating resistance of this whole assembly is keeping tension on the diff and not allowing it to unlock in 2wd.
By changing to lower gears the driveshaft has to spin faster relative to the wheels, which will cause the tension on the diff to be greater if the front rotating assembly has resistance.
My suggestion: put it in 2wd and jack the front end up. See if it's difficult to turn the front driveshaft (and axle with it) by hand. I'd start by greasing the front driveshaft u-joints, cleaning brakes, putting fresh 10w30 in the NP231 and getting the whole front rotating assembly to turn freely.
Even with everything spinning freely, the rotational inertia of the front output shaft, driveshaft, and pinion will still put forces on the diff during acceleration and deceleration, so the binding won't go away completely.
My personal preference (I agree with Mittnz here) is no lunchbox in the front.
to do it with a Detroit electrical or even a limited slip (can you do a limited slip in the front). Also, not sure about any of these lockers because I had to put in a new carrier since the OEM one wasn't capable with
new gears. This is so frustrating. This older vehicle is easy to put aside and think about selling but I have so much time into it with so many other projects lined up to do it to that I don't want to get rid of it.
I think I am running ATF 4+ or something similar.
I haven't driven this since the day I came home. The following day I put it on jack stands to test 2wd and 4wd and found that they work as they should. Today I wanted to do an errand and I am definitely having a binding issue. Backing out of the driveway, I could turn the wheel but it didn't want to turn very well and when I put it in D turning wasn't much easier. Chirping the tires around to make it straight, binding was there. It's acting like it only wants to drive straight. Even after 50 feet forwards, driving backwards wasn't any better, so I parked it on the driveway and got into my Gladiator and did the errand in that.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hi xjallseasons, I'll try to help.
Lunchbox lockers will only unlock under no load.
It sounds like what's happening is this:
In 4wd your front driveshaft is being turned by the tcase and synced up with the wheels, allowing it to unlock and drive correctly.
In 2wd, the force from the wheels has to turn the diff, the diff has to turn the pinion, driveshaft, double cardigan, front output shaft, and chain.
I'm guessing the rotating resistance of this whole assembly is keeping tension on the diff and not allowing it to unlock in 2wd.
By changing to lower gears the driveshaft has to spin faster relative to the wheels, which will cause the tension on the diff to be greater if the front rotating assembly has resistance.
My suggestion: put it in 2wd and jack the front end up. See if it's difficult to turn the front driveshaft (and axle with it) by hand. I'd start by greasing the front driveshaft u-joints, cleaning brakes, putting fresh 10w30 in the NP231 and getting the whole front rotating assembly to turn freely.
Even with everything spinning freely, the rotational inertia of the front output shaft, driveshaft, and pinion will still put forces on the diff during acceleration and deceleration, so the binding won't go away completely.
My personal preference (I agree with Mittnz here) is no lunchbox in the front.
Lunchbox lockers will only unlock under no load.
It sounds like what's happening is this:
In 4wd your front driveshaft is being turned by the tcase and synced up with the wheels, allowing it to unlock and drive correctly.
In 2wd, the force from the wheels has to turn the diff, the diff has to turn the pinion, driveshaft, double cardigan, front output shaft, and chain.
I'm guessing the rotating resistance of this whole assembly is keeping tension on the diff and not allowing it to unlock in 2wd.
By changing to lower gears the driveshaft has to spin faster relative to the wheels, which will cause the tension on the diff to be greater if the front rotating assembly has resistance.
My suggestion: put it in 2wd and jack the front end up. See if it's difficult to turn the front driveshaft (and axle with it) by hand. I'd start by greasing the front driveshaft u-joints, cleaning brakes, putting fresh 10w30 in the NP231 and getting the whole front rotating assembly to turn freely.
Even with everything spinning freely, the rotational inertia of the front output shaft, driveshaft, and pinion will still put forces on the diff during acceleration and deceleration, so the binding won't go away completely.
My personal preference (I agree with Mittnz here) is no lunchbox in the front.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 43
Likes: 9
From: Toledo, WA
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
Need to take it apart and see where that resistance is coming from. In 2wd with the front wheels up you should DEFINITELY be able to turn the front driveshaft, and with it the front wheels. If everything was working properly I'd expect turning one wheel to spin the other side too. If you hold one side (wedge or helper) you should be able to turn the other side and hear the ratcheting. It shouldn't require much force to ratchet. More than 1 finger force, it should take two hands but without leaning into it.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can't say what is causing the resistance without taking it apart, but that seems like the issue. All that resistance isn't allowing it to unlock properly. My first suspect would be dragging brake calipers, but it could be other things.
Need to take it apart and see where that resistance is coming from. In 2wd with the front wheels up you should DEFINITELY be able to turn the front driveshaft, and with it the front wheels. If everything was working properly I'd expect turning one wheel to spin the other side too. If you hold one side (wedge or helper) you should be able to turn the other side and hear the ratcheting. It shouldn't require much force to ratchet. More than 1 finger force, it should take two hands but without leaning into it.
Need to take it apart and see where that resistance is coming from. In 2wd with the front wheels up you should DEFINITELY be able to turn the front driveshaft, and with it the front wheels. If everything was working properly I'd expect turning one wheel to spin the other side too. If you hold one side (wedge or helper) you should be able to turn the other side and hear the ratcheting. It shouldn't require much force to ratchet. More than 1 finger force, it should take two hands but without leaning into it.